Muffler Black out Spray

[Tony H.]

I would like to properly apply black out spray to the mufflers of my 1970 as stated in the judging guide. But not too much detail is given. Can someone enlighten me on how this was done originally and what color/type of paint should be/was used? Would high temp engine paint work best? From what angle or direction was the paint sprayed? It seems to me this procedure was not a detail intensive painting opertion and there thus may be some overspray as a result including incomplete application to the muffler.

Thanks for any help!

[Joe L.]

Re: Muffler Black out Spray

Tony----

The muffler "black-out" operation was "messy". My '69, when new, showed some evidence of the blackout paint on the very lower portion of the rear fenders immediately adjacent to the mufflers.

I would use a semi-flat, high temperature, black paint to most nearly duplicate the blackout muffler finish. Make sure that the muffler is completely free of oil and dirt before you paint. I'd use at least 2 cleanings with acryli-clean.

[John Rohe]

Re: Muffler Black out Spray

Just curious, would this also have been done on '67s? I'm planning on replacing my exhaust this summer and might give this a try if appropriate.

Thanks, John R.

[Dale Pearman]

Re: Vin Derivative confusion

I'll bet the guy at St.Louis with the hammer said, "OOPS". Typical factory production error.

Dale.

[David McKenney]

Re: Vin Derivative confusion

My question is concerning the vin derivative on my engine block. I have a 1971 convertible 350 engine, 270 horse power with 4 speed.

All the numbers match on my engine; block# 397001, casting date B21, assembly code V0204CJL and vin derivative# being C11S109976. The vechile ID# is 194671S109975 and body code G16. All numbers suggest taht this is a car built in February of 1971, with the engine being cast on Feb. 2nd and assembled on Feb. 4th. My problem is that the las number in the engine vin derivative is one number off from the vechile identification number, 75 on the vechile, opposed to 76 on the engine.

My theory is that the engine for my car was swapped with the car ahead of it on the assembly line, vechile number 109976. Has this ever happened?? Or could this be possible??

I don't believe the stamping has been tampered with.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You, Dave McKenney

[Mike Dedon]

That's what we all claim..

when it doesn't look right (judges and entrants).

[David McKenney]

Re: That's what we all claim..

That's it? That's all you have to say? I thought thought that this was the big disscusion board for Corvette questions. Especially for questions about authenticity and restoration.

[Tom B.]

Re: Vin Derivative confusion

David,

I'm not sure what's happened to the original posting, or why this message thread appears fragmented, or what information you've been given other than what's been expertly offered below. But, the most possible and probable explaination has already been mentioned, that your engine block stamp pad has a typical factory stamped VIN derivative error.

I suppose other possibilities exist, but they begin to rate less and less on the "probability scale". Some of those being, like you mention the engine swap from another assembly line car, or if this wasn't a singular incident that several cars in a row were off by one digit with the stamping on the engine block, etc. If you want to approach it from the non-original, restamped block angle then I suppose the "re-stamper" could have mistamped the engine block as well. But that, too, has a very low "probability". One thing you might want to do is observe your engine stamp pad for signs of original broach marks. TBarr #24014

[Edward M.]

Re: Vin Derivative confusion

Have you checked the VIN stamp on the transmission? Is it also one digit off?

I had a 73 convertible that had an overstamp on the last digit of the VIN. The original stamp ended with the digit '8', which was then overstamped with the digit '7'. Both the engine and the transmission had this overstamp. I bought the car in late 1988, well before 73 Vettes were being "restored". It was a base motor, automatic car, and clearly had not been tampered with.

Factory anomalies do exist. It sounds like you have one.

[Edward M.]

Re: That's what we all claim..

David;

I can't tell for sure when your original post came in, but it looks like somewhere in the afternoon of Nov 2nd. You next post appears to be around 8:00 on Nov 2nd. My point is: you really didn't give people a chance to respond.

Most of us don't take ourselves or anyone else on this board too seriously. We do a lot of kidding around, and answer a lot of questions in a somewhat cavalier manner. Also, if 10 people have a similar answer, most of those people won't repond once they see that someone else has. That helps cut down on the network traffic. We really don't need ten people saying the same thing.

Try to give most questions a day or two to percolate. While the answers may be somewhat cavalier from time to time, you are defintely talking to some of the most knowledgable people in the Corvette hobby.

Now, for some truly irreverent attitude, check out the non-technical discussion board.

[Michael W.]

Re: That's what we all claim..

I skipped over your post as soon as I saw the phase "all numbers match" and heard in the next breath that the VIN number did not match.............

I think the explanation you were given is the most probable.

[Gavin N.]

Re: 1964 L75 Fuel Pump Replacement - Need Advice

Ed, I had to replace the pump on my '64 at Carlisle this year - its pretty straight forward. I'll add two things however to the method that's been described to you. First, without turning the engine over, set the push rod back with the described bolt. Then place the fuel pump in its position to check if you need to set the rod back further. If you mate the pump up to the block and there is no resistance, you're ready to go. Also, the fellow that helped me felt it was necessary to put a dab of moly lube on the tip of the pump lever that contacts the pushrod. This because you will be starting the engine with no lubrication at this location. It can't hurt.