I just purchased my 64 Vet with powerglide last fall and I noticed that my transmission fluid leaked out during the winter storage. I heard that this is common with powerglides. Any suggestions or comments ? Also, I need to install a set of seatbelts, and I would like some installation suggestions. ( Do you bolt them to the seat bolts or do you attach them elsewhere ?) As you can tell, I am a novice.The last thing is the upper and lower shifter boots. I understand that they are unique to that model year. Anyone have them for sale? Thanks, George
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Re: Transmission fluid
Hello George; For what it's worth, my 54 powerglide has leaked since the day I installed it....right after it was rebuilt. When I say leak, I mean an occasional drip. If the car sits for several months, I'll have a small amount of trans fluid under it. My 69 Turbo-400 drips too. The 64 seat belts mount using special Allen head bolts, through the carpet, to fixed nuts riveted under the car. Crawl under the car and you'll find the "nut plates". The Allen head bolts are available throught many sources. I've also seen the powerglide lower and upper shift boots. Check Corvette Central, Long Island Corvette, or even Dr. Rebuild. Chuck Gongloff1963 Corvette Conv. 327/360 NCRS Top Flight
2006 Corvette Conv. Velocity Yellow NCRS Top Flight
1956 Chevy Sedan. 350/4 Speed Hot Rod -
Re: Transmission fluid
As is stated below, the seta belt attaching hardware is available from most suppliers. The outboard seat belt attaches to the vertical portion of the seat well at the rear most edge of the seat area. If you will peel back your carpet a little bit, from that most rear area, you should see a hole for the allen bolt. This hex bolt is a round head, approximately 1" in diameter. I had to run a tap on my bolt holes to clean up the threads before I got a good smooth operation.
The inboard seatbelt attaches with a washer and nut. You should have a bolt protruding into the seat area. This bolt comes out of the transmission tunnel. Most seat belt attaching kits have all four seat belt attaching pieces. It is very easy and simple.
Need any further help, feel free to e-mail. GaryComment
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Re: Leaking Hole in Oil Pump to Filter Galley
Joe------
This may be a difficult problem to solve. However, I would avoid a traditional welded repair solution unless it was the only option available.
If it possible given the thickness of the cast iron in the area of the hole, I think that drilling and tapping for installation of a pipe plug would be the best solution. If necessary, you might have to "notch" the inner end of the pipe plug to insure that no oil passage would be rendered blocked. However, if there is sufficient thickness of material, that's the route that I would go.
Another solution might be silver solder. I've never used silver solder on cast iron, but I believe that it would adhere well. Plus, the heat required would not be enough to compromise the integrity of the cast iron block material. A silver solder repair should be more than strong enough to withstand the oil pressure involved.
Still another repair might involve the use of the special low temperature, "Super Alloy 1" welding rod available from the Cecil Muggy Company. This rod can be used to repair most metals including, for sure, brass, aluminum, steel, and zinc-diecast. I believe that it's also effective for cast iron. This rod is used with a propane torch so temperatures are far below those that will cause any damage to cast iron. Cecil Muggy Co. can be reached at 1-800-243-0800 or www.cmuggy.com. They are located in Torrance, CA. Cecil Muggy will certainly be able to advise you regarding a repair. They also sell an EXCELLENT silver solder.
While I understand your reluctance to use an epoxy-type repair, don't sell it short. I think that, overall, I'd be more comfortable with an epoxy repair than a cast iron weld. Epoxies like JB Weld are very strong and completely impervious to oil and gasoline. I would not be real comfortable using them in a situation in which the requirement for STRUCTURAL strength was involved, but I think that they would be adequately strong for this application.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Leaking Hole in Oil Pump to Filter Galley
i had a alum. bb do the same thing. i found a thinwall stainless steel tube and reamed the hole for a tight fit for the tubing. then i covered the hole in the block with a good epoxy. that was 25 years ago and that block is still being used in short track racing today.Comment
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Re: Leaking Hole in Oil Pump to Filter Galley
I've used JB Weld many times for oil leaks. It works!
Dale.Comment
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Re: Leaking Hole in Oil Pump to Filter Galley
a stronger 2 part metal epoxy than jb is called belzona i have used it to repair cat d8&d9 cyl. blocks the trick is to clean repair area very well using emory°reaser,good luck,ianComment
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Re: Leaking Hole in Oil Pump to Filter Galley
this oil passage could see 100# of oil pressure on startup so i would be careful just covering it with epoxy without something inside the bore. thinwall stainless steel tubing can be had with .010/.020 wall thickness and will not restrict the oil flow.Comment
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Re: Leaking Hole in Oil Pump to Filter Galley
Thank you for your suggestions! Based on all the input I have received, I plan to temporarily plug the hole with "JB Weld," so I can proceed with starting the engine. After I have crossed that bridge, I will go back and disassemble the engine to repair the hole (probably by having my machine shop insert a tube) and any other problems I may discover during the initial firing-Comment
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