i have a 1967 coupe ..full frame off...have not used the car in a few months and i find that the brake pedal goes to the floor.....need to bleed the brakes....what is the fastest and easiest way on these cars?/....i was told that you open the bleed screw on each wheel until the fluid drips a little and then close it.....is that so?....please advise and thanks
brake bleeding
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Re: brake bleeding
It's not as simple as that, if your going to do it yourself, get the '67 shop manual and follow the directions. You can get a copy here at NCRS.
If you have a frame off and don't want to ruin the finish with the glycol brake fluid, switch over to silicone, I did for my '67, and it's the best decision I ever made, even the Reverend recommends it, I think. Or was that George? Patrick- Top
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Re: brake bleeding
Patrick's advice is correct about bleeding not being as simple as that.
I would also be suspicious as to why the car has suddenly lost all brakes and not assume that bleeding will correct the problem. Could be that a caliper has let go and you are pumping fluid out of the system, or your master cylinder is no longer pumping the fluid in the first place.
Mike- Top
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Re: brake bleeding
Marc,
It's an easy job, but you'll need a friend to help. First, too avoid getting brake fluid on your new frame, use a spray paint can top (plastic top) to catch the fluid that comes out of the bleeders.
Start with the passenger side rear wheel. Have a friend push the brake pedal to the floor and HOLD it there. Open the bleeder and allow fluid and (hopefully) air to come out. just before the fluid stops flowing, close the bleeder valve and tell your friend to pump the brake a few times. Now repeat the procedure. So it's (pump - hold pedal - open bleeder - close bleeder), and then repeat until your friend tells you that the pedal is beginning to feel stiff (develop pressure). You may not develop any pressure in the pedal at all until you have visited at least the two rear wheels.
You want to start with the brake farthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the left front (that's why you need to start with the right rear!)
Since your car lost it's brake pressure rather rapidly, I would check to make sure that your master cylinder didn't blow out the pump seal. You can do this by unbolting the master from the fire wall and pulling back the black rubber dust shield. Mine was leaking badly from the rear of the master but I didn't realize it until I pulled the master and pulled off the rubber boot (GUSH!)
Anyway, it's an easy job.
Good luck!
--Corey #33787- Top
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Re: brake bleeding made easy
I agree with Mike, something else is going on here and you need to ferret that out first. I would also suggest, unless you have assistants standing around ready to pump brakes, (mine always seemed to be on a break when needed!)that you invest in a set of Speedbleeders. Neat product that is nothing more than a bleeder with an internal check valve. Little stainless steel ball with a spring that holds fluid until you apply pedal pressure, so you can bleed your brakes alone. Loosen bleeder, pump pedal, tighten bleeder; go to next wheel. One of those products that make you say, "why didn't I think of this!"- Top
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Re: Caution! C2's & 3's
FWIW suggestion, inspect the pedal travel, especially on cars with power brakes. If the pedal is pressed firmly to the floor, it can press against and crack the cardboard that covers the firewall insulation. Preventable condition deduct on judged cars.- Top
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Re: brake bleeding made easy *TL*
I have never used these, so I can not speak from personal experience, BUT on another board - the Impala folks - have been finding some leaks with these bleeders. If you use them don't leave them in for the long haul. Replace them with the regular bleeder screws after you are done bleeding the brakes - even if you don't intend to get the car judged, in which case stainless bleeders are the way to go.
Terry
Terry- Top
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