Installing New Fuel Pump

[Robert Larson]

Novice here. I have removed the fuel pump from my 62 327/250hp and now in preparation to replace it find a pump rod that doesn't seem to move back and allow me to install the new pump.
Is there a way to get it moved back without taking off the larger plate/cover?
Thanks for any help!

[Ed Jennings]

Re: Installing New Fuel Pump

You'll need to pull the larger cover. There are only two 1/4" bolts. A small amount of oil may run out, but nothing to worry about. There is a 3/8" bolt (9/16" head) just in front of the fuel pump cavity. Take it out and substitute a longer bolt with enough threads to reach and hold the pump rod. If the rod isn't well back into the cavity, you need to turn the engine until the rod almost goes all the way ii its hole. Then you can finger tighten the front bolt to hold the pump rod in place while you install the pump. Put the cover back on first and then sort of tilt the pump in so that the rod is resting on the end of the pump lever. You will probably have to compress the pump spring slightly as you tighten the bolts. When finished, remove the longer bolt in front and repalce teh original. A little thread sealer might be in order on that bolt.
Fuel pump on a 62 is a real PITA. If you have trouble with the forward bolt, try taking the radiator hose loose from the water pump and getting it out of the way. That's a last resort, 'cause now you have to deal with the antifreeze mess.

[Peter J.]

Re: Installing New Fuel Pump

Robert,
A wad of grease should hold the rod in place. It's a lot easier than using the bolt in the front of the block trick. Where it is possible to bend or dent the push rod.

[John M.]

Re: Installing New Fuel Pump

Robert, If I read your post right, you are saying that the shaft will not move back. If that is the case then the cam lobe that actuates the pump is at the top of the lobe. Rotate the engine a half turn or so and the rod cam will now allow the rod to be pushed back a little. Keep in mind however that the pump arm spring is compressed even with the rod fully retracted.
Contrary to popular myth it is not really possible to bend the rod by holding it with the bolt as the rod is fully encased in cast iron at tht point, so bending the rod is not likely. Just put a longer bolt in and snug it down enough to hold the rod, just dont forget to put the short bolt back in before starting the engine! The only time that the rod get bent is if you miss the pump arm with the rod and it goes alongside the rod. When you tighten the pump it will bend the rod.
Getting the bolts in with the spring under conpression is a little tough, but that is why the General put cap screws on the pump that have shoulders beyond the head, so you can push in on the head of the head with a socket and get the bolts started. I do know of people who take a long bolt of right size and cut the head off and put a slot in the bolt so it can be removed with a screwdriver. By putting this bolt in first and slipping the pump in over it it holds the pump in place while tightening the first bolt. Then the temporary bolt can be romoved and the second bolt installed. I have never gone to the trouble to do this, but I know people who swear by this method.

Regards, John McGraw

[Robert Larson]

Re: Installing New Fuel Pump

Thanks to all. I know what is in front of me now and really appreciate all of your experience! Thanks.

[Christopher R.]

Re: Installing New Fuel Pump

With the #1 cylinder on TDC, the fuel pump rod is off the cam lobe. That is, the rod can go into the block the furthest.

[Bernard M.]

Re: Installing New Fuel Pump

Chris, TDC on compression or exhaust stroke?

[Christopher R.]

Re: Installing New Fuel Pump

compression

[Louis Kolb]

Re: Installing New Fuel Pump

I use the Pete Johnston suggested method. Rotate the engine to retract the push rod. A coating of chassis grease on the rod will hold the rod in the block until the new fuel pump is bolted in place.