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I took the '61 to a parade today. It got a little hot (naturally) idling so much. After, I popped the hood and happened to check the fan clutch. It had very little friction. I believe it used to have much more when the engine was hot. I checked past articles in The Restorer and found one by Henry Molatch that helped a little. I adjusted the clutch to the next slot but it still seems like it has too little friction. Before I spend $160 on a new fan clutch, is there a way to determine if one is defective?
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Re: 1961 Fan Clutch
According to Fred Oliva, who rebuids fan clutches, you should bring the engine to full operating temperature, then turn the key off... the fan should continue to spin (only) 3 to 5 revolutions after the engine stops. You'd likely need to mark a blade with a piece of tape or something to do the count, unless it's real obvious it's freewheeling too long. -
Re: 1961 Fan Clutch
Also note that most currently-available replacement fan clutches are calibrated for "current car" operating temperatures (210-220)rather than the good 'ol 180 degrees we're used to. If yours is original (or an older replacement) it might be worthwhile to have it rebuilt (Fred Oliva).Comment
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Re: 1961 Fan Clutch
I remember reading a post on this subject a couple weeks ago where it was stated that the rebuilt clutches look fine on a show car, but don't work properly if actually "used" (meaning driving the car). So, which is it? Anybody drive their car with one of these rebuilt units?Comment
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Re: Rebuilt Clutch Performance
My 62 fan clutch was done by Fred in 1997 and has been working just fince since. It is critical that you get a reliable temp sending unit and cross check engine temp with an IR gun. Lots of posts about false temp indications due to the sending unit.
Regards, DickComment
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Re: 1961 Fan Clutch
My fan clutch has always worked perfectly. It's a Fred Oliva restoration.
Dale.Comment
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