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While I have my 327 torn down for a valve job, I figured I would check/clean the distributor and try to fix a malfunctioning tachometer. For the distributor, I partially disassembled it, cleaned and oiled it. At the same time I installed a Breakerless SE ignition kit. One think that concerned me was the condition of the advance weights. The seem a little sloppy on the pegs they ride on, which are slighty worn. Apparently these had no bushings??? The don't seem to want to snap back all the way; almost, but not quite. I figured I could get by with just replacing the weights and springs. As for the tach, it reads fine at idle, but reads low by 800 rpm at 60 mph. Its works very choppy, and sticks at various locations. Usually, a few good revs will un- stick it. The cross gear looks good, but the cable is jagged on the end (broken???) and twisted. Is it simply a cable, or could the tach itself be bad? Thanks for the help, Dan
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Re: 66 Distributor/Tachometer
Is the tach faulty? I would replace the obvious... the cable and inspect the cable jacket for wear. Then try it again to see if the tach has settled down. That is the less expensive of the two. If the tach needs repair you can address that then. You really haven't created any more work ... maybe some additional downtime.
Isn't this hobby fun????
Steve -
Re: 66 Distributor/Tachometer
I would recommend you completely disassemble the dist. and check the bushing clearance. It should not be more than about two thou. With some practice you can tell a good one by wiggling the shaft. Thoroughly clean the housing and regrease the upper bushing well. Yes, there should be grease in there, but at this point, most of them just have what appears to be dust, which is the solid component of the grease. The oil in suspension is long gone. Also, replace the breaker plate with a new one that fits snug with no wobble, and even with an electronic conversion, I would recommend shimming up the end play to two to seven thou.
The single point systems don't have bushings on the weight pivots, but HEIs do and these bushings are typically worn out well before 50K miles. If the weights don't return all the way, it could be because of light springs. In that case, time it at high revs beyond where the centrifugal is fully deployed - 36-38 degrees total advance with the vacuum can disconnected, and make sure it is the correct can and not leaking.
Clean the autocam and weights a springs throughly then spray everything with WD-40. Once the volatile components evaporates it will leave a rust resisting slippery film.
You should take the tach cable to an AC speedometer service station and have them inspect it. If it's damaged they can make a new cable, grease it, and install in in the original sheath. I'd would be a good idea to remove your speedo cable and inspect, repair, regrease it as necessary, too.
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