64 coupe rear suspension

[Robert V.]

Currently installing the trailing arms. With new bushings, the old # of shims do not fit. I know when completed the car will have to have to be aligned, front and back. Question is, how many shims are needed to keep the trailing arms stable, until the car can be taken to get aligned? Also, the replacement shims I obtained have two holes? After installing the bolt in, where does the other end of the shim go to?
French locks? Do they go on the outside of the inner flange? The outer clips bend over the bolts? But which way does the rest of the lock bend, towards the wheel or out towards the differential?

Thanks

[Joe L.]

Re: 64 coupe rear suspension

Bob-----

You need a tight shim pack for the trailing arm toe adjustment shims. The final shim should be pounded in with a mallet. I would set it up as close as possible to the original shim settings (number and size of shims on either side of the bushing). The COMBINED shim pack (total thickness of the shims on both sides of the bushings) should be close to what it was originally. If it varies by a lot, then I would expect that the new bushings were not correctly installed.

The "outer" end of the shims should "tuck down" into the cavity of the frame. I DO NOT recommend the use of "2 hole" shims. This will GREATLY complicate alignment and, if your alignment shop charges by the hour for Corvette rear alignments as most do, it will GREATLY increase your costs. Use the 70+ style SLOTTED shims. It is virtually impossible to see the slotted end when the shims are installed on the car. Also, if you tuck the shims down into the frame cavity and install a TIGHT shim pack as you should, no cotter pin, as was originally used with cars with slotted shims, is necessary for retention.

I don't understand your question on the french locks. However, I believe the procedure for installing them and bending the locking tabs is covered in the AIM.

[John H.]

Re: 64 coupe rear suspension

Bob -

The French locks go under the bolt heads that secure the half-shaft flange to the spindle flange, with the "hoop" portion facing away from the flange, as shown in the A.I.M. - the only part of the French lock that needs to be bent is the small lock tabs against the flat on the bolts.

[Duke W.]

Re: 64 coupe rear suspension

My SWC with the early slotted non-cotter keyed shims never lost one. As Joe says, you should have to pound in the last shim with a mallet, and this should be one of the thick shims, not a thin one. If you pound on a thin one it will just bend. The free end of the shims should be pushed down so the tip sets against the frame window. The trailing arm bolt should be torqued to spec with the suspension set at normal ride height.

After installing new bushings on my trailing arms, all the original shims, which I had cad plated filled up the clearance, but I did swap one or two of the thin ones side to side on each side of the car, to get my desired 1/32" toe-in per wheel.

After the car is running frequently retorque the trailing arm nuts. After the first few hundred or few thousand miles, everything should setting down, but the key is to pack the shim cavities tight and then properly torque the training arm bolt with the suspension at normal ride height.

Duke

[Robert V.]

Re: 64 coupe rear suspension

Thanks guys for the info. I did finally manage to find the set-up in my AIM. It seems like my AIM is scattered and really does not follow the index. One other question on the french locks, is there only one bolt and no washers? The replacement kit sent bolts and washers and nuts?

[John H.]

Re: 64 coupe rear suspension

Bob -

Four bolts per side through the half-shaft flange into threaded holes in the spindle drive flange; no nuts or washers - just the French locks.