C2=1963-67 HEADLIGHTS

[Peter Boemio]

I just purchase my first Corvette, a 1966 String Ray Conv...
I have a problem with the Headlights, the headlights go on when I pull the light switch, but when I try the other switch, the right side sometimes opens and the left side doesn't. Is it the switch on the dash or is it the motors. I would love some help and or direction.
Thanks,
Peter

[Grant M.]

Re: C2=1963-67 HEADLIGHTS

Peter,

If the right side "...sometimes opens...", I would say that it could be either the headlight opening switch and/or the motor(s). You might want to start by checking current at the motor(s) with a meter/test light (prior to doing so, ensure that the ground wires to each motor are fastened and making good contact). If you're getting current at both motors, then I think the source of the problem will be obvious (the motors themselves, which can either be repaired or replaced). If not, then either the wiring to the motors needs to be checked for continuity (pay particular attention to connectors, including the firewall connector which backs onto the fuse box) or the headlight open switch itself is the problem. The switch is available from parts vendors (but rather expensive now). It might simply be a case of dirty/bent contacts inside the switch, which is opened by removing two clips which also hold the wiring connector onto the back of the switch. Inside, you'll find basically a 'rocker' type plastic piece which, when moved in one direction opens the headlight buckets, and in the other direction, closes them. Carefully clean these contact surfaces and ensure that they're 'bent' enough to provide good, positive contact. Reassemble, cleaning the connector pins prior to attaching it to the back of the switch, and test. That should solve your problem. BTW, if you do have to replace/repair a motor, and in any event, this would be a good time to open the drive portion of the motor assembly and clean the gears, replacing the grease which has a tendency to 'harden' over time. The same is true for the lubricant in the 'bearings' at each end of each bucket, which suffer dissimilar metal (copper plate versus pot-metal) contact corrosion over time. Replacement nylon bearings which are reputed to solve this problem are available from some of the suppliers, but I have no experience with these. Good luck!

[Mike Yager]

Re: C2=1963-67 HEADLIGHTS

I had the same problem a couple of years ago on my '64. It was the firewall connector. The "prong" for the wire that raised one of the headlights was pushed in slightly. I disconnected the battery and pulled the firewall connector. With a needle nose pliers, I pulled the prong out slightly. Put it back together and have not had a problem since.

The key is to establish first that you have current from the switch to the firewall connector and then from the firewall connector to the headlights.

You will find over time that the firewall connector on mid-year Corvettes is a weak link and a poor design. Many electrical problems have their source there.

[Daniel Grunwald]

Re: C2=1963-67 HEADLIGHTS

Peter,
I agree with Grant that you might as well look at the motors while you are at it. My 67 had one slow side and one REAL slow side so I knew I was getting current. The motors can be removed without removing the hood or any of that. Just open the hood and you can access them. Remove them and open the gearcase up and clean out and lube them and put them back. It's not a hard job and it doesn't take as long as many will lead you to believe. One of my gears was worn so I simply turned it 180 degrees and put it back and it works fine now. There are some great articles in the archives as I remember with photos and everything. The NCRS does everything except the work.
Daniel

[Mike Yager]

Re: C2=1963-67 HEADLIGHTS

Peter:

I would check everything else first before diving into the motors. While not a difficult job, it will take you some time. I have generally found with these cars that if isn't broken, don't fix it - at least when it comes to electical problems. You have the potential in opening up a Pandora's box of problems. You just don't know what has been done/changed to the wiring of a 35+ year old car.

I would check everything else first (switches, firewall connector, voltage, etc.) before diving into the motors. If you find the problem not to be the motors and they are functioning well (open and close easily) then I would not go any further.

Just my two cents based upon experience.