C1 1961 Body-Off

[Richard H.]

Would appreciate recommendations regarding book/guide for doing a body-off restoration for a 1961 and any personal learning experiences/tips that you may have as a result of your personal experience. Thanks.

[Steve Westphal]

Re: C1 1961 Body-Off

Richard, The second time is the charm. The 53 to 62 Noland Adams book, the AIM, and the Technical Information Manual and Judging Guide are a must. They are all available at the NCRS store.

[Bob Malone #35242]

Re: C1 1961 Body-Off

Not to mention, regular visits to this board. I am just completing a body off restoration of a 60 and all the resources mentioned by Steve are a must but I have to say that this board and the archives provide a wealth of information and clarification on every conceivable issue.
Good luck.

[Dennis A.]

Re: C1 1961 Body-Off

Noland Adams published a small book (with tapes) that shows how to build a stand for the body and a place to record the mounting shims etc. Be sure to have a good stand or crable that will remove the stress's from the body after lift. Take a lot of notes/photo's as you you do the tear down, By the time you are ready to assemble they will be very valuable.

[Ray C.]

Re: C1 1961 Body-Off

Richard,
I would suggest that you keep very good records and take lots of photos of the disassembly process. I would also double zip lock bag all small parts and bolts and place one identification labels in each bag. You can alternate storage bags when you clean, media blast,or plate parts and keep identification control. I would double wire tag larger parts(left or right) and use the same control method. I would also plan a good storage system for your parts. This will help you find the correct nut, bolt or part when needed. As you remove parts, check for condition and correct application keeping notes on the parts that you are replacing. I found a "Ford" water pump pulley on my 327 engine. I hope this helps in your restoration, I learned the hard way!

Ray

[Philip Whitaker Member# 2024]

Re: C1 1961 Body-Off

Richard, I'm currently doing my second body off the frame restoration. The first restoration I bagged parts and labeled them so I "thought" that I would know where they came from. Much time goes by during a restoration, and some of my labeling didn't make "clear" to me as to "what or where" the part or fastener "was or went". This time I'm disassembling the car using the Factory Assembly Instruction Manual. As I bag each assembly or remove and bag nuts and bolts, I place in the bag with the parts the item number, part number, description of part, and page number out of the A I M. You should be able to easily find and identify your parts no matter how much time passes as you restore your car. I hope this helps. Good luck, Phil

[David H.]

Re: C1 1961 Body-Off

Richard;

I've done three body off's and have found that you don't need to throw anything away untill your finished and sure that no one else wants the stuff. When you remove parts, lable lefts and rights and keep the fasteners broken down in as small of groups as posible, such as "left window to mechanism mounting screws" or "right rear end to chasis bolts" as oposed to putting all left door screws and bolts together. leave subassemblies together untill you are ready to rebuild, leave the screws and bolts in the holes, and don't clean parts completely until time to reinstall as they will leave trace reminders as to how they were bolted together.

when rebuilding sub-ass's do them in a timely manner, dissassemble order parts and rebuild and finish each one as this is where having to remember can realy hurt.

Don't get overwhelmed by the fact that your whole car is apart, just focus on one piece at a time and remermber once each part is back together it never has to be done again and is ready for istallation. remember you are probably de-valueing your car because of the dissassembly so don't get depressed just press on and you will be satisfied with your progress and results. I paid 15k for my wife's 62 and right now I don't know anyone that would want it for more than 4k, but now the frame is not rusted out anymore and will probably never rust again, but the car is not together either.

Fasteners are the key to a happy resto because without them being organized and available you cannot proceed even if you have all parts ready to go back on. Do not rely on memory in any area, take the car apart slowly and place the parts back on just after you have removed them, that way the last thing your mind saw was the part being put on istead of thinking about the next one to come off.

Make something to hold the body together at the door openings when you lift it off or you can have the floorpan crack or damaged from twisting.

It is very rewarding to restore your own car but it is not easy, you can't be lazy and do this. David

[John H.]

Re: C1 1961 Body-Off

I've done six body-offs over the years (plus building several street rods, three Cobras, and a tube-frame Grand Sport); as a result of my years in the Mock-Up and Experimental Department at Chevrolet Engineering, I adopted their system years ago, which has worked very well for me for both restorations and "from scratch" builds.

I organize all the parts based on the Chevrolet/GM "UPC Group" classification, bagged, on pegboard; this is the system used in the Assembly Instruction Manual, which simplifies both the thought process and the actual assembly, as follows (UPC stands for Uniform Parts Classification):

UPC 1 = Body (subdivided by major group - Instrument Panel, Doors, etc.)
UPC 2 = Frame
UPC 3 = Front Suspension
UPC 4 = Rear Suspension
UPC 5 = Brakes
UPC 6 = Engine
UPC 7 = Transmission & Clutch
UPC 8 = Fuel System & Exhaust
UPC 9 = Steering
UPC 10 = Wheels & Tires, Jack & Tools
UPC 11/13 = Front End Sheet Metal (or fiberglass, in our case) and cooling
UPC 12 = Electrical
UPC 14 = Bumpers & Miscellaneous

After you've worked with this system for as many years as I did, it's second nature; the GMPD Parts Manuals never adopted it (they used their own numbers), but the car wasn't built from Parts Manuals - it was built from the Assembly Manual. It also helps to make a duplicate copy of the Assembly Manual and use it to check off every single part as you disassemble and make notes about which parts need to be restored/replaced/rebuilt, etc. to make your other worklists from as you track the project to conclusion. It's truly an exercise in Project Management - document and photograph everything, and don't throw ANYTHING away until the car is done! Keep at it, and stay focused on individual parts and assemblies, based on logical worklists, checking things off as you proceed; don't let the total scope of the project overwhelm you.

The other operative rule is to make an initial estimate of what it's going to cost based on apparent condition of the car and what the parts, paint, etc. are going to cost - then double it and add 50% and you'll be close! You will NOT make money doing this - you're doing it for the love of the cars; if this isn't clear at the beginning, don't even start

[artarmstrong]

Re: C1 1961 Body-Off

John, I agree, the UPC system is the only way to go----------I have been trying to get NCRS types to utilize it for years, with not much success, I hope your suggestion sheds more light on the subject.

Art

[Richard H.]

Re: C1 1961 Body-Off

Many thanks to all of you for taking the time to share your expertise and valuable experiences. I have not made a firm decision yet as to a body-off or body-on restoration. My last restoration of a 1961 FI was body-on and went well. However, I anticipate that soon I will have a new project car and would like to consider the body-off process. One of the things I learned in doing the previous car was that when I did things I had never done before (painting, enging rebuilding, etc.) there is a "fear factor": the fear that maybe I can't do it and I will "ruin" something valuable. That is why the restoration process has always been both a physical and psychological process for me. I enjoy it.