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My '66 427/390 4 speed is extremely hard to shift. I am considering purchasing a Hurst Competition Plus shifter - with the handle that looks like the original. Would I be better off rebuilding the original? I am not interested in "competitive" shows - where "points" would be an issue.
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Re: Hurst Shifter for '66
Chip-----
First of all, do you know that your shifting problems are due to the shifter and not something else (i.e. the transmission or clutch)? If the shifter is not the problem, then changing or rebuilding the shifter will be a futile effort.
I can assure you that stock, GM shifters can be and are very smooth and easy shifting if they are in proper repair, so there is absolutely NO fundamental problem with a stock shifter.
IF YOU NEED A SHIFTER ASSEMBLY, you can purchase a brand new, stock-type shifter assembly for about the same as a new Hurst shifter. And, then you won't need the look-a-like shifter lever for another $75.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: Hurst Shifter for '66
Please describe, "very hard to shift", is the shifter hard to move or the levers on the tranny hard to move. does it only do this after it is warmed up or anytime? Or is it hard to select a gear, it may just need adjusted. DavidComment
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Re: Hurst Shifter for '66
It is hard to get in to 3rd and reverse. I have already replaced the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing - and resurfaced the flywheel. I have also tried adjusting the linkage.Comment
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Re: Hurst Shifter for '66
Since both of your hard to shift problems are in the forward direction (of the shifter) and 1st gear is ok I would try the adjustment deal again. The hurst shifter ususally has a provision for a pin to go through all plates and the outer houseing in the neutral position. The pin is 1/4" I think. Reverse could be that the gear teeth are buzzed and not pointed anymore making it hard to select, but if the shifter is actually hard to move then likage adjustment or slack in the linkage would be next to check.
Make sure the Tranny has good oil in it also, I worked on one that would not shift at all when hot (could not pull the stick, even out of neutral), but when cold you could shift with two fingers. Took it out of the car and it looked brand new inside, (33k miles on a 68 400hp), we changed the oil because it looked thin to a multigrade 85/140 and it worked perfect hot or cold, no other work done!!
I've turned too many trans and clutch jobs into shifter jobs to save me time and my freinds money. Look at the arms on the side and make sure they all are the same length 1-2/3-4 and that the rods are in the same holes in the arms (some have 2 holes in each arm) and make sure they do'nt bind on each other or the side of the tranny. DavidComment
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