If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You must be an NCRS member
before you can post: click the Join NCRS link above to join. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
We recently recieved the original 283 for our car, which has been completely rebuilt. Unfortunatly at this time we don't have enough completed on the car to actually start it.
With winter comming, I'm concerned about how to store it. any information would be greatly appreciated
James - I will give my 2 cents and I am sure others will chime in. I am assuming by your winter comment you live in a cold climate and will have the engine in a garage, unheated, in a somewhat humid climate. I have successfully stored engines (mainly due to my lack of completing the car project!) for years. First and foremost, may sure you remove the plugs and squirt 1-2 teaspoons of oil into each cylinder. Rotate the engine several revolutions to coat the cylinder walls and rings with the oil. I usually then replace the plugs, and then cover the engine with a breathable cover such as cotton or linen. You don't want plastic as it can trap moisture inside of the engine and cause corrosion. The same applies for the induction - let it breathe. One item I have seen but never tried- there are storage plugs that screw into each cylinder that contain dessicant to absorb any moisture should it find it's way in. This sounds like a great idea to me, but since I live in the desert and the garage is usually above 45 with very low humidity, I haven't tested these, but I would check into it in a northern climate. I also like to rotate the engine at least once a month and leave the crankshaft in a different position so the valve springs, plus each cylinder is in a different spot than before - I figure it can't hurt to keep the springs in different states of compression etc. I have had opportunity to disassemble engines stored in this manner and have never seen any corrosion - again, desert storage should be considered. If you have had the induction installed and have a carb with gas, obviously drainage is required. I am assuming you have a long block and may not have induction in place. If so, again, cover the lifter valley with material that allows breathing but keeps dirt and dust out. Good luck!...Craig
I overfill the motor through the valve covers with as much oil as I can pour into it, then drain. I remove the spark plugs then pour oil into the intake with the carb removed rotating the crank(about a quart). Squirt some oil into the exhaust ports. Loosen the rockers after this so a film of oil is between the valve and the valve seat. I would leave the plugs out and cover with a breathable cloth.
In addition to all the suggestions concerning lubrication, be absolutely certain that foreign objects cannot enter the intake/exhaust ports. I once helped a friend install a Ford 302 that had sat (preserved) for several years. Shortly after startup, the engine started hammering. It had a small bolt in one of the cylinders. Broken piston, cracked cylinder wall, etc. Junked the engine. He had spend an enormous amount of time and money preparing, (and preserving) this engine. He failed to keep foreign objects out of the intake ports.
thanks for the help. Any thoughts on the carbs? They have been rebuilt, but have not yet had any new fuel through them. Do you think they will be OK remaining in an unheated garage. Or should I bring them into the house. I live in the northeast. Very cold and wet. The garage is dry.
I have been building stuff for a long time and have had the best luck over filling the motor with oil, draining the carb of every drop of gas and on bare parts or cylinders not full of oil, I use boat engine cylinder winterize spray. Check any boat dealer. I like the quicksilver brand the best. I use it on bare blocks, cams, cranks or pistons that I have on the shelf. Definitely cover the motor with a breathable material like canvas.
i would reccomend that after you fog the internals of the engine i would also back off all the valves to seal up the engine internals. this way no moisture will get inside the engine to rust the cly. or any other parts. this also makes it easier on the valve springs and is the best thing to do if the engine has hydraulic lifters to prevent them from collapsing.
We use cookies to deliver our services, and to analyze site activity. We do not share or sell any personal information about our users. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Tweet
Comment