electronic ignition

[john pickens]

Would anyone care to comment on pros and cons of upgrading my C2(65-327/350 AC) to
an eletronic ignition system? It is to be a driver, though not daily.
Also any preferences for particular system would be helpful. Thanks.

[Wayne K.]

Re: electronic ignition

John,

I've put about 10,000 miles on my 67 L-79 since installing a unit made by Pertronix that just replaces the points system and to date have had zero problems.

[Michael W.]

Have a look in the archives

there's lots of debate with no clear winner.

Many people have been left stranded by these things due to sudden failure (including me) so since there is no performance gain, I'd just as soon adjust my points once a year and be done with it.

[Mike McKown]

Re: Have a look in the archives

The bad part is, "if you are stranded, you are stranded". Where do you find replacement parts on the road?

The only thing I see wrong with conventional points on a driver is that when the car sits, sometimes the points will corrode and the car will not start until you file them or run a piece of cardboard through them to clean the crap off.

Think about it. If you drive 1000 miles a year, your conventional points will likely outlast your ownership of the car. And any jackleg can get it running for you if it dies. Can't say that for the other way round.

regards,
Mike

[Duke W.]

Re: Have a look in the archives

For high revving SHP engines use the high breaker arm tension points such as Borg Warner A112HP. Also make sure the breaker plate is snug and doesn't wobble. If it does replace it, and while you're at it, shim up the end play to two to seven thou.

This will provide a trouble free and reliable ignition to 6500. Keep a set of old points in your road spares kit and you will likely never have to be towed due to ignition failure.

Duke

[Joe Pennington]

Re: electronic ignition

I installed the Pertronix LSC1181 unit in my 64 300HP w/PG a couple of years ago and have had absolutely no problems with it. In fact, it greatly improved the off idle throttle response and part trottle response, which is a BIG plus when running a Powerglide. I had heard all the horror stories about being stranded, etc. if I didn't keep the original points system, so I saved the points, condensor, and coil-to-dist. wire along with a .015" piece of brass strip to set the points. I believe the improved performance and increase in gas mileage by changing to the Pertronix offset the reduction in performance and gas mileage caused by having to carry those HEAVY spare parts around. I do carry the spare parts in the spare tire tub to maximize weight transfer on sudden acceleration which is very important with the Powerglide.

[Mike McKown]

Re: electronic ignition

If you don't want to carry around one of those heavy brass strips, you can dig an empty beer can out from under the seat and use the pull top to set the points.

Mike

[Dave Schenk]

Re: electronic ignition

If you are stranded with dirty points, try running a dollar bill
in-between the contacts. It worked for me.

[Duke W.]

Re: electronic ignition

If you set the dwell angle on a set of used points and then remove them, they can be installed without adjustment. When reinstalled in the same distributor, the dwell angle will be close to spot on what you set it at, so you don't need to set the gap on your emergency point set. Just install and go.

Duke

[Mike McKown]

Re: electronic ignition

Now that I think about this, in all the years I drove a car with point ignition, I never had one breakdown due to point or condenser failure. Not one! But, since electronics have come to rule the automotive world, I have been towed several times due to electronic ignition problems. There is almost no recovery for a roadside failure unless you want to pull your diagnostic equipment and spare parts in a nice little trailer behind you. The typical old Corvettes I know of get driven maybe 1000 miles a year so if you think you can make the electonic changover cost back on gas mileage, you may be in somewhat of a bubble.

An engine will run with the point gap anywhere within reason. So, if your points are supposed to set at .019 "used" for example, the engine will run at say .006 to maybe .050. You can eyeball this. Don't need the brass strip or the pull top off the beer can.

The "only" advantage I can see to going to the electronic module for a "sometime" driver is because you will not have to worry (address) about the point contact corrosion problem. And If you have it, it takes about two minutes to fix with a dollar bill or whatever you want to use.

But, if you like to spend money.........

[Mike McKown]

Still thinkin' about you

And when the points went bad in my old SXL Homelite chain saw, I bought an electronic module to replace the points. It works like a charm, starts and runs better. And best of all, if it quits, then I can quit and don't have to worry about leaving it alongside the road in the middle of nowhere. Like the man said, "no clear choice".

[Craig S.]

Re: electronic ignition

I bet the old ones that really tore off the can were easier than the current fold into the can pop tops!

[John H.]

And Before That....

There was a thing called an "opener" - 'course, only us old farts remember those

[Craig S.]

Re: And Before That....

John - I still have several of those too....they worked on the "hard" cans you couldn't put on your forehead and crush. The other end had the bottle opener, remember the time before longneck bottles had the twist of caps? Maybe Corona still has this old style...Craig

[Verle R.]

Re: electronic ignition

And with all the negative responses....
I installed a Mallory optical system in my 65 about 15 years ago and have never had a problem in about 40,000 miles. Better starting, better plug life.

Just my experience.

Verle