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I think that you will find EXTENSIVE information in the archives on this subject. Myself and others have discussed it here on numberous occasions and at great length. I don't think that there is much else that could be said about the subject. Just search under "rear wheel bearings". Since all 65-82 are basically the same in this regard, the year model is unimportant.
If you fail to see it in the archieves though; It is best to burn out the cage on the inner bearing and then remove spindle without pressing; as the press rig can cause serious damage to the torq. arm and it can break the caliper bracket depending on which type of press you have. These caliper brackets were discontinued at one time, not sure now. David
PS; Do'nt remove the rivets that hold the spindle to the disc either as there is no reason to do this just to change the wheel brgs.
Quote: "It is best to burn out the cage on the inner bearing and then remove spindle without pressing; as the press rig can cause serious damage to the torq. arm and it can break the caliper bracket depending on which type of press you have"
I didn't have much luck working the archives page to see what the consensus of this group has been in the past, but I've got to respectfully disagree with the above advice. I've had the Kent Moore tools for years to R & R the rear bearings in the car. They're the ones that GM dealers used at one time and perhaps still do if they're so equipped. They're very similar to the ones catalogued now by Eckler, Corvette Central and numerous others. I've never damaged a trailing arm or caliper mount using these tools and wouldn't think of throwing a cutting torch inside a rear housing. If the set is used properly and with basic mechanical skills I think they represent an excellent way to remove components without damage.
Agree with Norris. There is a tool set to do this job (which I have and they work beautifully for removing, setup, and installing) and the reason for this is that it allows you to do the job without damage to either your car or yourself. I know that if you don't have and can't get the tools, you may have to find alternative methods like David suggests (yes, David. I agree that there is more than one way to "skin a cat.") but those methods, in my opinion, should be last resort or the car will be down for the count. An error in performing the operation can easily end up costing you far more than the price of the tools. So if at all possible, do the job with the correct tools. Oh, and make sure you have bandaids, the phone number to the emergency room, and a good crying towel. Even with the tools, I wouldn't classify the job as easy.
I also agree with Norris. I have the set of tools from International Axle, and have NEVER run into a spindle I couldn't remove. I would be very worried about the torch approach, damaging the temper on the spindle itself, plus the grease ingnition issues on the housing. Breaking the ears off the bracket is only something that would happen if you just start cranking on the press and don't use it properly. I have found that by cranking the press to apply substantial pressure, then lightly wrapping on the press bolt, it will pop the bearing race loose easily in all cases. Then you can simply draw the race off with no risk of breaking the mounting ears. It's one of those common sense approach things. The tools work great...Craig
Guy's I would agree with the idea that the torch is a last resort and the grease fire is a problem, also this should not be done by a novice, but I do have the tools and I have broken one caliper bracket and some others would have broken if I had not backed off and gone to the torch method, even after rapping on it.
It seems the latter cars are the ones that are so tight 73-80. If done properly the big heat never gets to the spindle just the cage and after the spindle is out the inner race can be removed by more conventional measures. Yes, try the tool first, by all means. David
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