Tie Rod Ends 65 Manual Steering

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  • Joe S.
    Expired
    • April 1, 1996
    • 0

    #1

    Tie Rod Ends 65 Manual Steering

    Ah, at last a pet peave of mine! I recently wrote this article for the MAC NCRS “Signal Seeker,” the MCA “Mustang Times,” the SEVA Chapter of the Shelby American Automobile Club newsletter and a vendor friend of mine puts a copy in with every order. Sorry for the multiple post. I hope it was worth the effort.

    The Real McCoy

    Fortunately for our hobby, there are individuals who have reproduced parts that are no longer available from General Motors, or that because of limited availability have been priced out of the reach of many enthusiasts. There are still some cars, however, for which only high dollar, hard to find parts are acceptable. As restorers scramble for the ever dwindling supply of parts for fuelies, midyears and big blocks, the line between reproduction and the “Real McCoy” is becoming fuzzy. In this article, I am going to outline some guidelines on how to distinguish between the two.

    I would like to begin by defining a new hobby acronym. “RM” (Real McCoy), is any part, that was actually assembled by General Motors, into any GM product, or serviced by GM as a replacement part for any GM product, at any time, that is identical in all respects to a particular part, used to assemble a particular GM product, at a particular time. This may sound like a bunch of legal mumbo jumbo but please read on and I think you’ll begin to see my point.

    When searching for a hard to find part, note how the part is advertised. This can often give a good indication as to whether the part is RM. The term “NOS” (New Old Stock) is often used to describe a new, vintage part distributed by GM as a service part for a particular model. This phrase however, has been increasingly misused to describe any new part serviced by GM as a replacement part for a particular model, and there is a distinct difference between even NOS and RM. Some differences may be immediately obvious. The NOS part number may have been revised or the casting or manufacturing date may be incorrect for a particular application. Other differences may be more subtle and unless you are an educated buyer, you may not be able to spot them. The NOS part may be painted while the RM part was left natural or was painted a different color, or visa versa. The NOS part may not bear correct assembly line markings or codes. GM may have changed the original design spec for the part and the NOS part may be of a slightly different design than the RM. There are usually several vendors who supply parts to GM for the same part at the same time, and over time, with slight manufacturing variations between their products leading to NOS parts that are different from RM. NOS parts quality is often poor compared to RM, particularly for more recently manufactured parts, because of aging or replacement tooling. Finally, GM may have serviced a part to fit a broad application, and the NOS part may not even resemble the RM part!

    Most restorers place a premium on a freshly plated or otherwise detailed part, and sellers take advantage of this fact, sometimes to the buyers disadvantage. In order to get top dollar and improve sales appeal, many sellers send parts out to be re-cadmium plated. EPA regulations have changed over the years, and plating processes that were used in the past, in many cases, cannot be accurately duplicated today. What started out as a rare, shelf worn, new RM, it is now just another restored part. Be wary of 30 year old silver or gold cad parts that look too pretty, unless pretty and not originality is your goal.

    People have come up with many creative ways to not say reproduction. “New,” “Reissue,” “Original Tooling,” “Officially Licensed,” “Approved,” you’ve probably heard them all. I am particularly impressed with the term “NORS,” which I was told meant “New Old Reproduction Stock” and referred to parts that were manufactured on original tooling or by original vendors. Although some may be closer than others, none are RM. I recently encountered a problem with a vendor over the use of the term “original.” I thought the phrase was pretty clear. As we talked, however, he explained to me that his “original” parts were his top of the line reproductions that would not be detectable in NCRS competition. Although I must agree about the quality of his parts, I wonder how many people he has sold these parts to as RM? The only phrases I have yet to hear misused are “Survivor,” and “Take Off.”

    Old parts have a distinctive, musty smell that only comes with age. Labels and spec sheets included with the part should be yellowed. I have rarely seen reproduction parts in new RM boxes, although I have frequently seen used RM parts in new RM boxes represented as shelf worn new RM parts. I got into quite a tiff with a vendor over a set of “NOS” 1963-67 Corvette taillights when he refused to supply RM boxes. As it turned out, the taillights were actually reproductions! When paying high dollar for new RM parts, insist on the boxes. This is not a guarantee that the parts will be new RM, but it does drastically increase the chances.
  • Joe S.
    Expired
    • April 1, 1996
    • 0

    #2
    Re: Meaning of terms?

    Ah, at last a pet peave of mine! I recently wrote this article for the MAC NCRS “Signal Seeker,” the MCA “Mustang Times,” the SEVA Chapter of the Shelby American Automobile Club newsletter and a vendor friend of mine puts a copy in with every order. Sorry for the multiple post. I hope it was worth the effort.

    The Real McCoy Some simple guidelines to use when searching for RM parts are: GM put it’s corporate logo and an engineering number on just about everything. Most repro parts will not have this ID because of copyright infringements, although, “Officially Licensed” reproductions and parts reproduced on a small scale by small vendors who aren’t worried about getting caught will. AC/ Delco often serviced the same parts to GM for many years. What may be RM for a car one year, may not be correct for the next. Make sure you get the RM part that is correct for your particular application. The various identification and instruction decals on cars are difficult to obtain even for brand new cars, so probably any decals that you find will be reproduction. Reproduction parts are usually too pretty, with prominently placed, wrinkle free decals and perfectly applied, clearly read ink stamps. RM hoses have an “alligator skin” texture that you won’t find on a modern hose. RM ink stamps on belts and hoses were quite durable and should not wipe off with your thumb. Make sure that all character and symbol type is solid print, not dot matrix like the silk screen reproductions. Inspect the narrow edge of stamped parts like brackets. These parts are easily reproduced by modern computer controlled machines, and will have machining marks instead of the forging die parting lines of the RM part. You should be careful to inspect casting numbers on RM parts to make sure that letters and numbers haven’t been altered. It’s pretty easy to transform the numbers 3, 6, 8 and 9. The numbers 10, 11 and 12 are easily changed into 1’s and 2’s. The same goes for the letters of the alphabet. Make a little silicone rubber mold, mix up some steel filler and the possibilities are limitless. The least you can do is carry a vintage calendar with you to see that the dates are real workdays and a pocketknife to make sure that the casting numbers aren’t faked. Be wary of sellers with pre packed parts or large supplies, and sudden increases in the availability of a rare RM, and never be misled into thinking a part is RM because of its high price or a generic GM parts tag attached to it.

    Often the only guide a restorer may have when shopping for a RM will be a vague mental picture or a photograph. Unscrupulous sellers are well aware of the fact that many buyers probably have never even seen a RM, and can’t tell the difference between a RM and a high quality reproduction. Be an educated buyer or beware! There are some repro parts, particularly as price and rarity increase, that even if you hold the repro and the RM in your hands, unless you know details about how the part was originally manufactured, you won’t be able to tell which one is the RM. Sometimes the repro part is “seasoned” by installing it on a car or engine for a while. I have seen individuals go to the trouble of building up paint on a repro part, blasting off most of the paint, then repainting the part so it looks like a detailed RM. Be particularly careful when buying RM wheels. High quality repros have been produced for several years now, and these parts age quickly, so it may take a sharp eye to spot a repro. Always place the burden of proof of a part’s originality on the seller and try to limit your dealings on hard to find RM parts to reputable sellers.

    If by now you find yourself running for the garage to see if your Corvette was “Made in Japan,” remember that depending on your particular restoration budget and goals, you might be more concerned whether a reproduction part is available at all, rather than how it differs from the RM. Demand only the highest quality reproduction parts and don’t pay RM prices for poor quality repros when only a RM part will do. In any case, you should be an educated buyer and be aware of what you’re not getting the next time you decide to buy a repro part.

    Comment

    • Tom Freeman

      #3
      Re: Meaning of terms?

      Joe, that is very interesting....I have always thought of NOS as New Old Stock. A part that was produced in say the '60s for a '60s car, but had been sitting in a warehouse or parts shelf ever since. It is an old part (over 30 years old now), but is new in that it had never been out of the box.

      Guess that I need to catch up with the rest of the world.

      tom...

      Comment

      • Joe L.
        Beyond Control Poster
        • February 1, 1988
        • 42936

        #4
        Re: Meaning of terms?

        Tom----

        Your interpretaion of the term "NOS" is another one of the many that exist. Actually, in the classical sense, I have always considered that this is what the term "NOS" means, too. However, the problem is that parts are not dated(although sometimes one might be able to find a date code on the packaging material)and, in most cases, there is no way to know how "old" a part is. Of course, once a part has been discontinued, that will establish the "newest" that it can be. For example, a part number discontinued in 1985 cannot have any examples produced after that date. So, let's say you have a part which went into service in 1963 and was discontinued in 1997 and was continuously produced under the same part number throughout that period. If you find an example under this original part number, how would you define whether that part was "NOS" or not?
        In Appreciation of John Hinckley

        Comment

        • Mike M.
          Expired
          • October 1, 1999
          • 710

          #5
          Tie Rod Ends 65 Manual Steering

          I am just putting the tie rod ends together in there adjustment sleeves. I read in the archives that they should be turned in 31 turns and that will put you close for the front wheel alignment. All 4 ends will only turn in 28 full turns and then seem to bottom out. At first I thought the threads were screwed but they all go in the same amount. This means you could only adjust them one direction.I would think there should be room to adjust in or out when this is done properly. Does anyone have a different method or a measurement for doing this. I know I should have wrote this down when I took them apart but its to late now. Thanks Mike

          Comment

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