67 ammeter

[Ron R.]

Is there any way for a novice to bebuild an non functioning ammeter?
Thanks,
Ron

[John H.]

Re: 67 ammeter

Ron -

Are you sure it's the ammeter and not a bad connection for one of the two sensing wires in the bulkhead connector?

[Ron R.]

Re: 67 ammeter

I had a guy check my electrical when I had non-functioning dash lights from a poor ground, and he said my ammeter went bad and needed a new one. He seemed pretty knowledgeable. Do ammeters go bad?
Thanks

[John H.]

Re: 67 ammeter

Ron -

Yes, but not very often. There are two wires connected to the ammeter (16-ga. black, and 16-ga. black/white); both go through the inboard bulkhead connector to the engine compartment, where the black one goes to the battery cable stud on the starter (through an orange fusible link), and the black/white one goes to the screw connection at the horn relay, also through an orange fusible link. The ammeter reads the voltage difference between these two points and displays it as current flow to/from the battery when the engine is running.

With the connector pulled off the ammeter, each wire should show battery voltage with the engine off; if they do, and the ammeter shows no deflection at any time with the engine running, the ammeter is bad. If either one of the wires shows no voltage, chances are the connection is corroded inside the bulkhead connector (common problem), and the connector needs to be removed (carefully, don't break the lock tabs off), the terminals cleaned (toothbrush and Radio Shack electrical contact cleaner), coated with dielectric grease (Radio Shack), and re-connected. Disconnect the battery before removing the connector body.