Help! A Duzy of a 1967 Caliper Problem

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  • Carl R.
    Very Frequent User
    • March 1, 1998
    • 166

    #1

    Help! A Duzy of a 1967 Caliper Problem

    Seems these old cars only get more & more interesting as the years go by... (or read: I'm learning more about my car than I ever wanted to know!)

    My 1967 car began leaking from right rear caliper a few weeks ago. Initially I ordered a single CC caliper but decided to return this in favor of a new "O-ring" SS-sleeved rear caliper set. As my rear rotor runout was about .008 I decided to replace both rear rotors also.

    After returning home post-call on Friday and finding a little yellow UPS tag on my door, I zoomed out to the local distribution center. The gentlemen there were kind enough to search for an hour but successfully found my package. The weekend was saved! (sort of). Apart from needing to paint both rear calipers black, all was in order. I replaced the rear rotor & runout was about .007. Rear wheel bearing endplay undetectable. However, on attempting to install the caliper the mounting "ears" on the caliper would physically not fit onto the mounting bracket. The inclination angle was slightly incorrect. The caliper also "rubbed" the outer braking surface of the rotor.

    After considering overnight, I attempted to fit the CC caliper (which I fortunately had not yet had time to return). It would fit onto the bracket a bit better but still rubbed the rotor. Changing back to the original GM rotor didn't solve the problem.

    Finally I considered rebuilding the old caliper. After prying out the seals the bores look OK but the rear mounting ear has a small crack. And, you guessed it, this caliper too rubs the outer face of the (both) rotors. Interestingly, the caliper "straddles" the rotor perfectly at the rear but off-center at the top. All three calipers are Delco identical # units.

    I analyze possible faults as follows:

    1. Bent caliper mounting bracket - possible. I understand this usually occurs subsequent to rear wheel bearing failure, which has never occurred since I have owned the car (1986). The caliper I am attempting to replace I purchased in 1987 from SSBC & it fit on without difficulty. And in inspecting the bracket...it just doesn't appear to have that "tweaked" look; i.e. all the casting lines are sharp & not wavy, all the angles are parallel, no visible cracks. Both mounting ears are parallel when measured with a straight edge.

    2. All parts "within tolerances" but together "out of tolerance".

    I know I can have the rear ear on my current caliper welded & grind off some of the inner casting that "rubs" the rotor...but this is a "band-aid" approach & I would like to permanently correct the situation. Unfortunately I have limited ability to perform "heavy" work on the car in its current storage...and realyl don't want to try and remove the rear caliper bracket (half-shaft/flange/parking brake/etc.) unless I am convinced this is the etiology.

    Any and all advice/help on this problem would be oh so greatly appreciated...

    Thanks!

    Carl

    P.S. I know this all happened because I brought the parts home in a Ford...!
  • Carl R.
    Very Frequent User
    • March 1, 1998
    • 166

    #2
    ...and the plot thickens....

    Hi yall!

    To the above novel thought I would add:

    Had brainstorm, removed the left rear caliper tonight. Caliper mounting bracket appears identical to that on the right. Crude measurement from trailing arm-to-upper mounting ear same for both sides (+/- 1mm).

    Hmmm....

    Carl

    Comment

    • Joe L.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • February 1, 1988
      • 42936

      #3
      Re: Help! A Duzy of a 1967 Caliper Problem

      Carl----

      This is a VERY STRANGE problem that I'm having a hard time understanding. If I'm understanding you correctly, what you're saying is that before you started any of this work, the caliper that was on your car "fit" the mounting bracket and the caliper did not contact the rotor. Then, after experiencing problems with the new rotors and calipers, you re-installed the rotor and caliper that were on the car initially, AND THAT CALIPER DIDN'T FIT CORRECTLY TO THE BRACKET ANYMORE AND ALSO CONTACTED THE ORIGINAL ROTOR! Something is VERY STRANGE here!

      Until you got to the part about reinstalling the "ORIGINAL" parts and still having the alignment/fitment problems, I would have suspected a bent mounting bracket, a rebuilt caliper produced from a core that had been distorted or previously modified or an incorrectly machined rotor(or possibly a front rotor used on the rear). Barring that, your car's brake mounting system appears to have "spontaneously distorted" after you removed the "original" caliper and rotors. "Spontaneous distortion" is a condition that I've never encountered before(and never expect to again). Anyway, seriously, here's all I can offer without actually seeing the car:

      1)Are you sure that the rotors are FULLY SEATED on the spindle flange and that you've fastened the rotors to the fully seated position with at least 2 lug nuts?

      2)Are you sure that the calipers and the caliper bracket are unmodified? Check the machined surfaces carefully for crude or non-factory appearing grinding.

      3)Are you sure that the calipers are FULLY seating to the caliper bracket when you install the two 7/16"-20 bolts? Make sure that nothing is interfering with this fit and seating.

      Incidentally, changing rear rotors will usually do little or nothing to improve rear rotor runout and, based on the measurements you provided, it appears that you've confirmed this. Usually, rear rotor runout is caused by the rear spindle flange not being true to the spindle centers. This is a VERY common problem with GM spindles. Even new GM spindles, out of the box, will often have more than .005" runout MEASURED ON THE SPINDLE FLANGE. This results in .010" on the installed rotor, even if the rotor is PERFECT. If your original rotors are near new thickness(1.250" with 1.215"discard thickness), have parallel surfaces, and are not too badly scored or unevenly worn, you don't need to replace them. Your runout, though, of .007-.008" is excessive. You might get by with it using "Zero-Tolerance", o-ring type pistons but that's a 'Band-Aid', too.
      In Appreciation of John Hinckley

      Comment

      • Gary Schisler

        #4
        Re: Help! A Duzy of a 1967 Caliper Problem

        Carl, I agree with Joe. I had a difficult time understanding how something fit before you took it off and didn't after you replaced everything. I would suspect that, somehow, you have not replaced everything as it was originally. It would seem that something is amiss here. I would suspect that the rotor is not fully seated in the proper position, or that something came loose. Did you check and make certain that the parking brake shoes are not blocking the installation of the rotor? You can, and should, back these away from the rotor before removing and re-installing it. I know that you have probably looked at this a hundred times, but maybe having someone with a fresh set of eyeballs would help you look through the trees and see the forest. I am fortunate that I have a neighbor with an early Corvette who I call over to help me through my difficult times. Sometimes I look at things so long I can't see the obvious. Gary

        Comment

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