C2, seat belt reinforcement, welded nut loose

[Dave Schenk]

[mromano]

Re: C2, seat belt reinforcement, welded nut loose

Hi Dave

Had this happen to my 63 SWC on the passanger side. I first put a vice grips on the bolt head and positioned it so it would not turn. Then I managed to get a hacksaw blade up there and after three blades, many sore knuckles, a few cuts and scrapes, i managed to cut the bolt. I then removed the corner plate. It is glued and may have riviots. I then had another bolt welded to the original plate and reattached it. Watch out, the repros may not be correct. (At least for the 63) The repros have a large hole (appx 1 in. dia) in the middle of the plate. Many of the standard vendors have repro bolts that are fine. Good luck
mike romano

WOW, I am wondering about that "HOLE" in the side rail that you talk about.

[William C.]

Re: C2, seat belt reinforcement, welded nut loose

I had a similar problem, I would up loesening the body mount bolts and lifting the body slightly to get a wrench on the turning nut. That nut is directly above one of the small gussets on the bottom of the frame, so it can't be seen from below. i went in beside the body in an area aouboard of the covers for the body mount bolts.

[Joe C.]

Re: C2, seat belt reinforcement, welded nut loose

Dave:

It depends on how you want to approach the problem. It sounds like you have a very desirable car - a rare 1965 396/425. If you are not concerned about authenticity, and only want functionality, then you should cut the bolt head off from the inside, push out the remnants of the bolt/weld nut, and refasten using a hex head bolt/nut/split lockwasher assembly. This would be installed "backwards", with the bolt and split lock inserted from underneath, and the nut in the cabin.
If it were me, however; I would lift the body off, and do the job the right way. Remove the seatbelt retainer bracket from the floorpan, spot weld the nut back on, and re rivet using correct "Dr. Rebuild" or equivalent rivets.

Joe