C2 Distributor - Can't rotate....

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  • G B.
    Expired
    • December 1, 1974
    • 1373

    #16
    My lessons from personal BB nightmares

    I used to routinely replace big block valve guides. Now I sleeve the originals to avoid water leaks and allow for factory off-center valve stem holes.

    I use the GM "LS7" oil pump with a welded on pick-up screen. The high-volume design is needed on a big block to adequately oil the cam and valve train at low rpm.

    Some new cams still come with a rear journal groove ala the '65-6 factory cam. To accommode this extra oil passage, the cam makers suggest that you "solder over" the rear cam bearing oil hole and then re-drill it smaller "to avoid an internal oil leak". (How do they apply solder on a lead faced bearing?) In my opinion, a better solution for '66 and later big blocks is to buy a replacement cam without the grooved journal.

    The factory plastic coated cam gear for the timing chain will last about 50,000 miles with a stock oil pump. I try to replace the stock sixties timing set, cam kit, and oil pump before they have a chance to ruin anything else.

    Unless I have the cooling system in perfect condition on a big block Corvette, it will overheat moderately in slow traffic during summer. I can't think of another example of a GM cooling system designed to operate so close to its limit.

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    • Clem Z.
      Expired
      • January 1, 2006
      • 9427

      #17
      to solder the hole closed

      just countersink( gives you more steel to solder to) the back side of the bearing and then use a heavy duty soldering gun to fill the hole. do not drill the soldered hole but drill a new one. been there done that a few times.

      Comment

      • Craig S.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • July 1, 1997
        • 2471

        #18
        Re: to solder the hole closed

        I did this on my crate LS6 I bought in 1989. GM sent it with a 4362 cam, with the groove, and the large hole. I followed the procedure in the power book, and had no trouble with teh soldering and drilling. If I recall, I did drill through the solder in the same place vs a new hole as Clem suggests...it's been a while...Craig

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