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I am removing the following items and would appreciate some information: 1. Removing the cable from the emergency park brake mechanism - it seems to me one has to first remove the circular unit with the rectangular slot at the end of the unit first. Confirm? Mine does not readily pop-out. Don't want to force it if I am mistaken. 2. How does one remove the ignition unit from the cluster if it is in lock position and no key is available? 3. How is the cigarette lighter unit removed from the cluster? and finally, 4. Is the light mechanism removed from the cluster by loosening the "nut" on the front of the unit? Thanks.
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Re: C1 Removal Help
Cig lighter assy consists of a socket that was inserted from the front side with a threaded end surrounding its rear electrical terminal. A socket 'retainer' (simply a cylindrical sleeve) inserted from the rear and screwed onto the socket then pressed against the backside of the dash to hold the assy in position. The outside of the socket retainer assy had two parallel stamped rectangular holes to accommodate the illumination lamp that simply 'snapped' into place on the outside of the retainer.
Removal consists of unplugging the electrical feed wire from the rear of the socket, pinching the illumination lamp assy and pulling it off, then unscrewing the socket retainer. The last step can be tricky because the socket and retainer both used rather inexpensive mating threads that oxidize and 'rust' together over time. Holding the socket steady in the dash while unscrewing the retainer can be virtually impossible without sticking something inside the socket (screwdriver, Etc.) to keep it from twisting while the retainer is removed.
Catch-22 here, original sockets had 3-prong, white ceramic insulated electrical contacts for the lighter element to mate with. This was discontinued in the late 60's with replacement sockets having 2-prong contacts. The original 3-prong sockets are getting rare as hen's teeth to find. If you insert the screw driver and use Gorilla strength to try and unscrew the retainer, you stand a reasonably good chance of distorting the inside of what might be a correct original 3-prong socket!
I suggest you spritz a lubricating agent (penetrating oil) onto the socket/retainer threaded interface and letting it sit overnight to soak in before you attempt to unscrew the retainer to avoid damage. I'll let others comment on the other C1 topics you raise. Good luck! -
Re: C1 Removal Help
Richard,
I'm not sure if the ignition lock switch assembly can be removed without first removing the lock.
If it can then its just a matter of undoing the nut but I would have to have a closer look at the switch to see if that is possible.
The headlight switch is removed by first removing the knob and shaft by pushing down on the release button, which if memory serves me correctly is at the top of the switch, then just pull on the knob. Once the knob and shaft is removed it is as you said, just undo the nut and pull out the switch.
There is a special tool, but once the shaft is removed a large screwdriver will easily undo the nut.
Hope this helps, Mark.
My Vette PageComment
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Re: C1 Removal Help
Mark is right about headlight switch removal, except the release "button" is on the bottom of the switch (at least on my 1960). It is spring loaded; just push the button all the way in and the knob along with the attached shaft comes out as a single unit off. To reinstall, hold the button in and push the knob/shaft back in; let go of the release button.
I believe it is necessary to have a key in the ignition to assist with removal of the cylinder tumbler. The key has to be turned to the left while inserting a paper clip in the hole on the front of the tumbler. Without the ignition tumbler removed, you can't unscrew the chrome nut that holds the ignition switch on to the dash. The tumbler diameter is greater than the chrome nut. Can't help on the emergency brake cable removal.Comment
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Re: C1 Removal Help
It's been about a year since I replaced my emergency brake cable so memory dims...
Disconnect the rear connection of the cable first, and of course let the handle all the way to the dashboard. The large nut at the firewall is torqued a healthy 50 lb-ft at assembly, plus maybe a bit of rust. It may require a bit of muscle, but it's pretty sturdy. Then when that's unscrewed, slide the inner cable toward the car interior and go inside and lift the end ball out of the slot in the handle-rod ("lever assy"). 1958 AIM sect.5, sheet 5. Hope this helps.
... Al '58 #378 245hp NCRS SACCComment
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Re: C1 Removal Help
Richard -
I took a fresh look under the hood, and was reminded of the spring clip that holds the cable sheath into the large-nut metal through-fitting. If you are only changing the cable, I recollect that you can just pull the spring clip (and loosen the rear lever end of course) then slide the inner cable into the cockpit a few inches to pull it from the pull-lever. I only pulled the large nut to de-rust it in the process.
... AlComment
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