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Re: C1 water pump and heater questions
The radiator & shroud can stay. Put a block of wood & a rag between
the jack & oil pan go easy try not to dent the pan.
Check your engine mount for pits where the water pump bolts
Very common place for it to leak.
As far as the hoses on my 56 the intake hose goes to the bottom
hole and does have the hot water valve.
Take Care, Rob -
Re: C1 water pump and heater questions
Mike,
Replace it yourself! Easy to work on. Drain the rad water. Remove the two motor mounts (vertical) bolts. Tell you why later. Support the front of the oil pan (easy does it) as Rob states and use your car jack to slightly lift the engine. When you begin to see the motor with mount raise off the rubber biscuit, stop. You don't have to remove the upper rad shroud but it sure makes working area more open if you do. Remove the fan blade. Remove one of the four water pump bolts. Using it as reference, from the hardware store get four (low grade) bolts just like it only 1"-2" longer. Cut the heads off these bolts and put a slot in the end for a screwdriver. Put one in the bolt hole you removed and remove the other three bolts. Pull the pump after removing the hose. If it is obvious the pump has failed you do not have to go any farther. If not, remove the motor mount and examine it closely (this is why you removed the vertical bolts). It may be badly pitted around the water/bolt holes or a small crack between holes. If so, have these areas ground and welded then ground and flat filed. Insert the four headless bolts into the (cleaned) block, slide a gasket over the studs. Slide the motor mount next. Next slide another gasket and then slide the water pump. Both sides af ALL gaskets should be lightly coated with Permatex #2 non hardening. Everything remains in place thanks to the studs. Remove one at a time and replace with (original bolt if ok) no less than grade 5 bolts. Tighten to torque (I forget what). Lower motor back onto biscuits and reinsert two vertical motor mount bolts. Regards,Comment
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To Protect Your Oil Pan...
Consider making up a wooden "saddle" that will raise the engine from the pan rails, not from the bottom of the oil pan; you don't want to damage the pan, as they were discontinued years ago and aren't reproduced.
The link below shows the one I made years ago - the base is a 2x6, and the sides are 1x6, placed on top of the base and attached with 3-1/2"-long wood screws; the side pieces are about 1" taller than the depth of the pan, and the inside width is just slightly wider than the sides of the pan so the tops pick up on the pan bolts. The notch is for dipstick tube clearance.
Engine Lifting SaddleComment
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Re: C1 water pump and heater questions
John,
Good set of instructions. I did this on my 57 10 years ago and recall what a tough change it was. Actually it is not all that hard, just awkward. I would recommend pulling the fan shroud also. I removed my hood to get a lot of room. Sometimes it is easier to stand in front and lean over. Keeps from damaging paint, etc. Also, if he has an original water pump I would recommend getting that one rebuilt. Most of the part stores that sell rebuilts can get the rebuilder to fix and return yours. Just don't be in a big hurry. You will need to get someones special attention however. Speak to the parts store buyer,explain what you want and I bet they can help. If they won't go to another store.
Good luck,
TedTedComment
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