My 61's front suspension module is out of the car and it seems new king pins are in order. The usual suppliers market kits to replace all the pivots in the whole front end. Do all the shafts typically need replacing or is the king pin assembly the primary wear area? Thanks, Karl
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Re: C1 Front Suspension
One example is my '58 - the kingpin bushings were REALLY frozen into the spindle holders, required real surgery to remove, had to cut away rusted pinch bolts, the whole thing looked really grungy. But, new kingpins and kingpin bushings and seals all around is all the front end really seemed to need after cleaning things up. (The real test will be when it starts driving). i think that sometimes teh kits have more than is needed - strip and inspect first!
... Al '58 378 245hp -
Re: C1 Front Suspension
Not to be insulting, but are you sure that they need renewing.
I replaced the whole front end components and found that the original king pins were well within wear tolerances.
I still replaced them as they came as a kit but due to their fitting it is possible to think that they are worn when they are actualy OK.
Mark.
My Vette PageComment
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Re: C1 Front Suspension
I have gone through the front end on several C1's. ALL needed kingpins, but only one so far has needed A arm bushings. That one only needed one out of eight. King pins are available from NAPA for about $35 for the set. A arm bushings are also available separatly.Comment
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Re: C1 Front Suspension
Karl,
It all depends on how well the front end has been lubricated. I changed my kingpins simply because I was taking everything apart for cleaning, but the rest of the front end parts with the exception of seals and new boots for the tie rod ends, were the original parts that my car left the factory with 43 years ago! Unlike newer cars which have rubber encased bushings, the old steel on steel bushings on a solid axle Corvette will last almost forever if kept lubricated. You can still buy the kingpins at your local auto parts store and get them cheaper than from the Corvette suppliers. A lot of counter guys just don't want to mess with the old stuff, but most can get them in a day or two if they just put forth the effort. It never ceases to amaze me the stuff that my local Hi-Lo auto parts guy can find for me!
Regards, John McGrawComment
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Re: C1 Front Suspension
Thanks for the responses. Lacking a better way to check for problems, I am just rocking on each part as hard as I can trying to observe any movement that would indicate excessive clearance. It's hard to get any such movement except on the king pin itself where I notice just a little bit of rocking movement (rocking in what would be camber direction). I looked at another front end yesterday that was much worse and clearly needed king pins, whereas mine is just that it can be noticed visually. I think I am at the point where king pins are easy enough to change that I may as well just do it. The rest of the shafts look to be a pain so I only want to do them if really necessary. However, now is clearly the time to do it if they are commonly in need of replacement. Short of disassembly, is there a way to check them? If I spend the time to take it all apart, I may as well just replace the stuff. FWIW, the car drove OK.
Thanks again,
KarlComment
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Re: C1 Front Suspension
If you can see movement in the kingpins, they need to be changed. It really isn't too bad a job. Cleaning everything up will take as much time as changing the parts. The A Arm bushings are somewhat more difficult to change, since frequently the coil spring has to be removed. If they are tight when pried on with a bar, they are probably ok, just see that they are well lubed.Comment
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Re: C1 Front Suspension
How do you do the kingpins without removing the knuckle, and therefore relaxing the spring? Are you changing kingpins on the car?
I'm very interested in this subject. I had intended to replace the kinpins and most of the A-arm bushings this Winter. I just assumed that after 40 years, the A-arms bushings were shot. I also cannot test for movement in the A-arm bushings while they are under spring tension. So, figuring the knuckle has to come off to do the kingpins, I had intended to do everything while I was there. If I don't have to, you could really improve this Winter for me.
1. How do you test for play in the A-arm bushings while they are under spring tension?
2. How do you replace the kinpins on the car? How high up do you have to get the car? You pound them out from the bottom, don't you?Comment
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Re: C1 Front Suspension
Chris, The spindle support stays on the car, so the A arms aren't going anywhere. You only need to raise it a little higher than necessary to change a tire. The pins are driven out from the bottom, so you need to get a punch and hammer underneath. Typically, not a lot of force is required.
You can test the A arm bushings by prying with a suitable tool, like a crowbar to test for movement. Usually, if there is significant wear you can readily determine it.Comment
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Re: C1 Front Suspension
Karl,
That was my idea as well only I bought the full frontend package so I just replaced everything that came with the kit whether it needed it or not.
The king pin kit comes with the pins and the bushings which need no reaming.
Just press them in and slide the pins and any needed shims. Just follow the ST-12 instructions.
I also had help from some of the regular guys here and on the Corvette forum, so if you get stuck just put your hand up and help will be forthcoming.
Good Luck! Mark.
My Vette PageComment
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Re: C1 Front Suspension
Karl, good luck on removing the kingpins on-car, however you MAY run into what happened on mine - I had to pull the knuckles with spindles and take them to have the pins pressed out with a big hydraulic. This was my biggest labor cost on this car to date, except for the accumulated sandblasting charges for multiple parts - it took the mechanic 20 minutes to get the pin out!
It IS possible, but not recommended, to remove the knuckles without removing the springs. After all, removing the knuckles is one path to removing the springs. If you do that, be sure to use a thick (I used 5/8" dia) all-thread with thick metal plates, and of course washers & nuts, in place of the shocks as a safety measure. E-mail me off-line if detail is needed.
... Al '58 #378 245hpComment
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