C1 Blackout Process

[Alan Bishop #34929]

I am completing a Body off restore on my 61. Before I do the Body drop I want to make sure I do the Black out process to NCRS spec.

Currently the all of the bolts and nuts on the suspension, exhaust system hangers, brake backing plates and dust covers are all natural. The Driveshaft, rear carrier and exhaust system are unpainted. The rear main springs are painted silver. All of the Paint Daubs and Stincils are in place.

Reveiwing actual assy line photos in Nolan Adams Book would make one think all of the above was blacked out. What the the NCRS look for?

Alan

[Ted L.]

Re: C1 Blackout Process

Alan,

All of your hard work with paint daubs, stencils, etc is probably not wasted because of the poor job the plant did at the blackout process. I think it was done from above (before the body drop) so the underside of most of the components will be untouched or at the most, some overspray. I suspect the engine and transmission was shielded. My two cents.

Ted Lake

[John M.]

Re: C1 Blackout Process

Alan,
while it is widely accepted that the chassis was almost completely blacked-out I have presented my 60 for judging in pretty much the same condition as you stated with the exception of the springs painted black, and took almost no points for chassis blackout. The only points I took that were related to paint blackout were for not having the exhaust system painted. This was a decision that I made early in the restoration process and am more than willing to live with. My car is only judged for a few hours a year, but I have to live with the looks of it the rest of the year. I also decided that I could not live with original quality paint, and took 8 points for the lacquer paint being to slick, but once again, I can live with that.
I think that judges appreciate attention to detail and do like to see the right head marks, stencils, and carefully restored chassis components. I painted my chassis with DP90 followed with a single stage urethane paint which was flattened approx. 25%. This took no deducts and has yeilded a long-lasting and beautiful chassis.
You just need to make your own decisions on what you are willing to live with long term on your car. It is quite possible to improve on the original quality of some of the finish issues on these old cars and still stay very high in the Top Flight range.

Regards, John McGraw

[Ron R.]

Re: C1 Blackout Process

Alan,
I'm new at the restoration process and have not been judged yet. I have elected to black out everything/anything "shiny" or painted from the top. This includes the exhaust system. I've "blacked out" lightly over some of the stencils so they can still be made out. On my car I definitely sand blasted through a coat of black paint before I came to the paint daub marks on my front suspension. Again, every car was different and I'll bet varied from very little "blackout" to complete. At least this is what I've gathered for my 61.
You can always error on to little “blackout”. It’s easier to add later than try to remove. Just my opinion.
Ron Rusnak

[Alan Bishop #34929]

Re: C1 Blackout Process

If the Blackout Process did happen, and I am sure it did..... How did the Exhaust System get Painted Black and the Paint Daubs and Stincels get at least a overspray ..... Yet the Fuel & Brake lines are left unpainted as the NCRS Judging Manual States?

Alan

[John M.]

Re: C1 Blackout Process

Alan,
The JG is a constantly evolving document, and is not the definative gospel on what was the "correct" condition for any given part. The chassis was blacked out upside down and tha stencil as well as the exhaust system was covered. The paint daubs on the spindles and supports were probably not covered on most cars since the spray would not have reached in there. The correct paint would have been a cheap, asphalt based paint that would have had a glossy appearance.

The problem is, that unless you are willing to have a trailer potato car, the asphalt paint will get dull and dirty very rapidly and will no longer look "as installed" by the factory. At this point you stand the chance of taking condition points on the chassis paint. In my view, you can now take condition points for the paint or risk taking some originality points for amore durable chassis paint and having the stencil show (which the JG looks for).

There are many opinions on what is correct for any given part and there are very few absolutes on cars this old. The points you are talking about are very minor, so do what makes sense for you and let the points fall where they may.
Don't lose sight of the fact that you start out with 4500 points and you can lose up to 270 points and still Top Flight. One or two points here and there are not going to hurt you, so pay attention to those things that can really hurt you. You are never going to have a 100% car so don't beat yourself up trying. No matter how perfect you think you have a car, there will be some judge that has a different opinion of what is correct and deduct points for an item when other judges would not. This is a subjective process and you will just burn yourself out if you get too retentive about the small items. That was very good advice about it being easier to add paint then to remove it! I took a point for lack of undercoating on my splash pans, but knew that it was possible and still have not decided if I will add the undercoating since it will be tough to remove when I finish having my car judged and don't want the ugly undercoating showing on my splash pans!

Regards, John McGraw

[John H.]

Re: C1 Blackout Process

I think it's fair to say that the current description in the TM&JG has not been totally reconciled with recent research and archival photos that indicate a much greater degree of C1 chassis blackout; the TM&JG and the National Team Leader are the best source of guidance for maximum judging credit.