Hello. We would like to get another ignition key for our `75 with the code # punched in the knockout. Not knowing the code #, could a locksmith determine it by examining the key? Thanks for any help.
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Re: Key Code - C3
I believe the locksmith can read your key cut. Then
cross reference that reading, in a code book, to get
the key code. It worked on my C1 Rob -
Re: Key Code - C3
Brian-----
The key codes for GM keys are usually stamped on the shank of the key. It will be a single alpha-character (letter). That will identify the key for a locksmith. Both the "square" head key and the "round" key will have such letter identifiers.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Correction
I see that I mis-read your question; you were not asking about the key blank codes, but, rather, the key "cut code".
The method that Rob suggested might work, but I was told once-upon-a-time by a locksmith that the key code could not be determined from the key, itself. A duplicate could be made from a key, but examining the key cut would not reveal the code. In other words, you could make a key from the code, but you could not "make a code" from the key. Whether this is actually true, or not, I don't really know. Locks are not an area of expertise for me.
One suggestion, though: if you have an original owners manual or other original paperwork, you might check it. Sometimes dealers would record the key codes in the owners manuals so that if the owner lost his/her keys, another could be made up from the so-recorded key code.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Correction
Joe is correct in saying that it is difficult to get the key code from the Key. You can easily read the key and cut another key to match, but comparing that to the hundreds of possible codes would be a task. You could choose a code and have your locks matched to that if you want. Funny thing though, who is going to check the code against the key anyway. If you want some numbers in there, just stamp them.Comment
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Re: Key Code - C3
The key can be read as to the cuts with a tool and the more worn the key the harder it is to do. I know in most years in the 70's their were 2000 different cuts and they are in key code sequence so you need to check till you match the numbers of the cuts you read and then cut a key to the code to see if it works. Some judges have the information on the letter the knock outs should have and each year is different. Usually a number a letter and 2 more numbers.
Sample 0F01 THRU 9F99 = 1000 Key CodesLyle
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Re: Key Code - C3
Brain, Look in Chassis Service Manual, it is usually a couple pages from the front of the manual, in the General Information Section. It should have a key code chart you can use to get the tumbler numbers off your old key, which is all that is needed to make a new key. For the key code itself, you would need a code book to look it up. The one that is used the most is published by Curtis Industries and used mostly by companies with large vehicle fleets, like municipal vehicles or power companies. I believe a lot of locksmiths also use the same code book. Hope this helps. DaveComment
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Re: Key Code - C3 *TL*
Brian,
If you can remove one of the locks, and if the lock was installed at the factory, the code is stamped on the lock. At least that is true of 1968-1972, and I would expect it remained true for a long time. It is easy to get the code for the interior storage/spare tire lock, the doors will be harder - but not impossible.
TerryComment
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Re: Key Code - C3
I just sent the proper key(without the code or knockout) from my 61, to Jessers Keys. He determined the proper code and made me 2 new keys with the correct codes stamped in the knockouts. I would think he could do the same for a C3 key(s). No need to remove locks.Comment
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Re: Key Code - C3
Once I had a buddy who was a repo man. That was the way they did it. The lock pops out quite easily; read the code; cut the key; and drive off with the car. All in less than a minute.
Easy money, until he was murdered while repo-ing a car. Unfriendly owner-type.
GeezerComment
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Re: Key Code - C3
Brian - My 2 cents. As others have indicated, you can do it from the key with "fairly" good accuracy but key cut depths as they are are not the best source since they can vary +/- and the key will still work. As far as I'm concerned, the best way is to find the code# stamped on the lock or core if you want to be absolutely certain. PeteComment
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