I am currently doing a frame off on a 1969 convertible, October 1969 build date and am currently restoring the trailing arms. I have the metal sleeve (3819806) that goes through the rubber bushing (3743857). When I try to assemble the parts, it appears that the metal sleeve is too short to be flared. The trailing arm on this car had a counter sunk washer on each side of the arm. This just makes the metal sleeve that much shorter. I have the 'staking tool' and it looks strong enough to compress the bushings. Am I missing something here? Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Steve
1969 Trailing Arm Bushing Question
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Re: 1969 Trailing Arm Bushing Question
Gentlemen,
When the bushing is compressed correctly with the staking tool the 3/4" plate will nearly be bent. You need to use a 1/2" air ratchet and press the bushings on each side until the rubber is about 1/8". I flare the sleeve slightly on the inside and use a 10 pound hammer on a concrete floor to flare the sleeve before removing the staking tool. Then I use a grinder to smooth the sides of the assembly before installation.
The choice of the correct staking tool is very important in having good results with trailing arms.
I have bought more than one staking tool and used parts of each to complete my set of trailing arms tools.
Good luck!
JR- Top
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Re: 1969 Trailing Arm Bushing Question
I just did this a while ago on a pair of '65 TA's using this staking tool from Zip Products. This was the first time I ever performed this task. The tool worked perfectly. The bushings have to be compressed almost to the max. I used my impact wrench on the tool. Lube the threads so they do not gall. Then a 3 lb hammer on the shop floor as exactly what Joe did to flare the end of the sleeves. I then did a final squeeze between 2 flat bars in my press to get the flare edges more flat.
Rich
TL-106
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Re: 1969 Trailing Arm Bushing Question
Steve. I put a lot of pictures here that will help you. http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ad.php?t=77000- Top
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Re: 1969 Trailing Arm Bushing Question
I am currently doing a frame off on a 1969 convertible, October 1969 build date and am currently restoring the trailing arms. I have the metal sleeve (3819806) that goes through the rubber bushing (3743857). When I try to assemble the parts, it appears that the metal sleeve is too short to be flared. The trailing arm on this car had a counter sunk washer on each side of the arm. This just makes the metal sleeve that much shorter. I have the 'staking tool' and it looks strong enough to compress the bushings. Am I missing something here? Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Steve
Steve------
I have heard this complaint many times before. I can assure you that EVERY time this problem occurs, the root of the problem is failure to sufficiently compress the bushings. Period.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: 1969 Trailing Arm Bushing Question
Fellows,
The pictures that Gary has posted on the other forum are great and shows how a professional accomplishes his work. Notice the Trailing Arm Bushing Installation Tool. It is large, thick and you don't use a hammer in the floor to flare the sleeve after the bushings are compressed. The Bushing Installation tool sold by Ecklers, Auto Accessories, CC, etc. is not heavy duty and cannot be used multiple times like Gary's professional tools.
You cannot purchase the tools to do one trailing arm and come out vs. sending the trailing arm to a professional and a professional trailing arm rebuild will last the rest of your playing time.
JR- Top
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Re: 1969 Trailing Arm Bushing Question
Thanks Joe. That first plate tool I made lasted for about 50 arms then started to bend as you mentioned earlier. Then I found an old die we were going to toss out and converted that a few years back. One thing I have found with these bushings is they vary from supplier to supplier. I have seen the sleeves too short, too long, the bushing diameter too large or small to fit in the arms. I use bushings that Brian Bair sells only, they have worked well for me for years. I suspect the bushings I had a problem with are imported for the lowest cost and the quality reflects it.- Top
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Re: 1969 Trailing Arm Bushing Question
Gary,
I also recommend Bair's bushings as they are consistent quality. The only problem is that they have to be trimmed on the inside to keep them from touching when compressed into the arm. After turning them down they can be pressed all the way into the arm. I love your tool as it is thick enough to compress the bushings without bending.
Keep up the good work!
JR- Top
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Re: 1969 Trailing Arm Bushing Question
Thanks Joe. That first plate tool I made lasted for about 50 arms then started to bend as you mentioned earlier. Then I found an old die we were going to toss out and converted that a few years back. One thing I have found with these bushings is they vary from supplier to supplier. I have seen the sleeves too short, too long, the bushing diameter too large or small to fit in the arms. I use bushings that Brian Bair sells only, they have worked well for me for years. I suspect the bushings I had a problem with are imported for the lowest cost and the quality reflects it.
Gary------
I use only GM bushings, retainer ("tube"), and washers. Of course, I don't do many of these since I only do them for myself.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: 1969 Trailing Arm Bushing Question
BUSHING------ GM #3743857-------GM list $18.52/ea
PLATE-----------GM #3820418-------GM list $2.86/ea
RETAINER------GM #3819806-------GM list $10.20/eaIn Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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