Pillar Paint and Finish, Part Identification Question

[Kenn S.]

Upon researching the archives, I found a couple of threads that address this, but I thought I'd ask for some clarification.

I'm restoring a 1980, using it to practice techniques before I start on my 1970. Both cars have rusted pillars, but the 1980 isn't in bad shape, really. It will need sanding and painting.

The sanding is nearly done. I saw no trace of zinc chromate primer, but a previous owner probably eliminted that for me. The windshield is a CarLite replacement, and someone filled pillar gaps with Bondo and hand-brushed a black paint. Hideous, but then again it may account for the better than average condition.

Bottom line is I have no idea what these look like originally.

Moreover, the VIN plate being black phosphate...clearly we can't remove the plate to recondition, but given the rusted condition it'll require sanding and painting.

So, realistically speaking...what's the best advice for pillar restoration? Paint with zinc chromate, black out with some satin paint (brand/color recommendations?), and perhaps find a black phosphate-color paint for the VIN tag?

Now for the part identification. The AIM calls this part a "filler arm", but I'm not finding it online. Is there a better name? "Water diverter" doesn't work either. Not often I can't name a part.

[Edward J.]

Re: Pillar Paint and Finish, Part Identification Question

Ken, The piller areas are really a problem area with rust, I would use a zinc primer or something like POR15. this a very hard finish and will last for years, and helps stop rust from traveling. No one is going to see this area anyway , the trim is in place, any way once its dry you can paint with a satin black paint such as Sem products, they make a excellent spray bomb, that sprays like a gun.

[Joe L.]

Re: Pillar Paint and Finish, Part Identification Question

Ken, The piller areas are really a problem area with rust, I would use a zinc primer or something like POR15. this a very hard finish and will last for years, and helps stop rust from traveling. No one is going to see this area anyway , the trim is in place, any way once its dry you can paint with a satin black paint such as Sem products, they make a excellent spray bomb, that sprays like a gun.

Edward------


I would stay away from using POR 15 unless I could be absolutely sure I could remove all the rust. Otherwise, the rust may proceed under the POR-15. I would remove as much rust as I could and then treat the area with a chemical rust conversion coating, working it well into all the "nooks-and-cranies". This will prevent further rusting. Then, paint with SEM black or similar.

[Joe L.]

Re: Pillar Paint and Finish, Part Identification Question

Upon researching the archives, I found a couple of threads that address this, but I thought I'd ask for some clarification.

I'm restoring a 1980, using it to practice techniques before I start on my 1970. Both cars have rusted pillars, but the 1980 isn't in bad shape, really. It will need sanding and painting.

The sanding is nearly done. I saw no trace of zinc chromate primer, but a previous owner probably eliminted that for me. The windshield is a CarLite replacement, and someone filled pillar gaps with Bondo and hand-brushed a black paint. Hideous, but then again it may account for the better than average condition.

Bottom line is I have no idea what these look like originally.

Moreover, the VIN plate being black phosphate...clearly we can't remove the plate to recondition, but given the rusted condition it'll require sanding and painting.

So, realistically speaking...what's the best advice for pillar restoration? Paint with zinc chromate, black out with some satin paint (brand/color recommendations?), and perhaps find a black phosphate-color paint for the VIN tag?

Now for the part identification. The AIM calls this part a "filler arm", but I'm not finding it online. Is there a better name? "Water diverter" doesn't work either. Not often I can't name a part.

Kenn------


The parts are referred to as lower corner outer frame FILLER.


The GM #471997 was discontinued without supercession in June, 1989. The GM #471998 was discontinued without supercession in October, 1989.

[Joe R.]

Re: Pillar Paint and Finish, Part Identification Question

The treatment of a rusted area with POR15 is questionable!!!!!! This stuff has been advertised as some kind of rust killer and we have no way of knowing what it will look like 40 years from now.
Cleaning the area of rust and sealing it from water is the best way to prevent rust from coming back. After all it is under the trim and out of sight so you won't know what's happening several years from now until it's too late!
Sandblast, Glass beads, scraping, sanding and wire brushing are the ways to clean out rust! In other words, good old fashioned labor!!!!!!

JR

[Kenn S.]

Re: Pillar Paint and Finish, Part Identification Question

Thanks, all!

Good, old-fashioned labor is what I've been doing. I figure I need to know what's underneath the rust, and as nice as the majority of the pillar(s) is (are), I did find a 1/4" hole where the caulk would secure the windshield. So I'll repair that.

My plan was to treat with a rust preventative (maybe even as simple as Rustoleum, hopefully in a zinc chromate color), leaving a 3/8" bare metal strip along the windshield bonding surface (my glass guy requested that for better adhesion, but I'll be sure the caulk covers all exposed metal). He was concerned about poor paint adhesion and therefore poor windshield adhesion.

Once treated, I'd then black out. I'll grab some of the SEM paint mentioned.

As for the VIN tag, I guess I'll blast that too. Can't remove it to replate, so it is what it is. At least it'll be protected. I'll cover the rivets best I can...

Filler, eh? So the AIM was right. Mine aren't in bad shape...a little rust where the nuts attach. So I'll just clean those up an reuse.

Thanks!