I want to change my 'spin-on' filter with the original style canister. Is it as easy as spinning one off and the other on?My guess is no, but what must be done?Thanks for any advice.Brad
Oil filter
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Re: Oil filter
Bradley
There's an adapter involved. Not sure it's worth he trouble in my opinion. AC-Delco PF 131's are easy to get. I agree the cartridge process is a bit messy but the oil change intervals on most old Corvettes are time driven not mileage....- Top
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Re: Oil filter
Brad,
Adapters are available from many suppliers i.e. Long Island Corvette. It's about a 15 minute job to convert over to a spin-on oil filter but as John has stated, unless you're using your car as a daily driver you most likely won't be changing your oil that often. Certainly your decision. As an aside, I converted my car because when I do change the oil it is a lot less messy and quicker.Leif
'67 Coupe L79, M21, C60, N14, N40, J50, A31, U69, A01, QB1
Top Flight 2017 Lone Star Regional- Top
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Re: Oil filter
I can see where the oil comes into the filter, but where does it exit to return to the block?Brad Davenport
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Re: Oil filter
Bradley,
You will need the original plate to convert back to the canister and they are easy to find. The process was to loosen the long bolt that went thru the canister and into the block. That removed the canister and filter. You then had to empty the oil from the canister and remove the filter cartridge and clean the canister. The old square o-ring had to be removed and replaced with a new square O-ring which was supplied with the new cartridge. Wipe a little oil on the lip of the canister and snug it up, give it a twist to seat the o- ring, and tighten.
On some canister type filters the oil travels thru the long bolt and out a hole in the side. Not at the shop right now or I could take some pics.
DOM- Top
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Re: Oil filter
It looks to me like the exit is back through the center, which is where the long screw from the canister connects. I'm sure that's not right but hesitant to replace until I understand how it works. I do think I need a new 'bypass valve' but not sure how that connects either.Brad Davenport
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Re: Oil filter
Brad,
The bypass is easy to test as it is in the aluminum plate that screws on with the 2- 1/4 bolts. I push on the round fibre disc and make sure the spring returns the disc to the seat.
DOM- Top
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Re: Oil filter
It looks to me like the exit is back through the center, which is where the long screw from the canister connects. I'm sure that's not right but hesitant to replace until I understand how it works. I do think I need a new 'bypass valve' but not sure how that connects either.
Oil from the pump enters the side of the bypass valve, then enters the top of the canister through ten holes in the valve, the oil passes through the filter element, then exits the canister and bypass valve through the hole in the center of the valve, and proceeds through all the bearings and galleries and drains back into the sump. Oil path shown below, and the bypass valve is attached to the block with two 1/4"-20 bolts, as shown in the Assembly Manual.
OilBypassValve56_67Bottom.jpgOilCrisis2 (2).jpg- Top
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