Help no spark 1963

[Jeff C.]

1963 340HP Bubba had put in a pertronix ignition and modified the wiring harness to move the ballast and coil to the left inner fender. I redid all of the wire back to original and put the points back into the distributor. To day I started the car it fired up after a few cranks. Ran very well for 5 min.I shut it off to fix a water leak and then tried to restart it. It started to fire but quit so I pumped the gas, nothing. Had my wife crank it while I checked for spark. No spark. I did the following:
Checked all connections
new set of points and condenser
different coil
disassembled distributor and checked all functions
No Spark!
I check for a short by using a 12 volt test light between neg battery and ground.
Thanks,
Jeff

[Stuart F.]

Re: Help no spark 1963

Jeff;

Are you getting any power to the coil? (12V on START or aprx 8 V at ON). Is the short ground wire still on and connected at the ignition (VAC) plate?

It's hard to tell what "Bubba" may have done, but certainly doesn't seem necessary to relocate the ballast resistor and coil. I have installed a number of Pertronics II units and merely ran a jumper wire around the ballast resistor (in place), or tapped into the 12 V input side (specially on C-1's). Their "Flamethrower II" coil mounts in place of a stock coil as well.

I don't fault them for going to an electronic ignition. Gosh, I have a can full of points, condensers and primary wires, and I wouldn't give them away to my best friend. I can't begin to count the sets of spark plugs I used to throw away that would no longer work in a SHP engine due to fouling when I used to use points in my L-76, but you have to do it right. And that is, I believe, never convert anything on a 1, 2, or even a 3 condition car that you can't easily change back. That goes for a stereo unit and speakers too.

Stu Fox

[Duke W.]

Re: Help no spark 1963

No Spark!
I check for a short by using a 12 volt test light between neg battery and ground.

Jeff

When the points are closed there should be a "short" between coil negative and ground - zero resistance. When the points are open resistance should infinite.

With the ignition on/engine off check for voltage at coil +. If no voltage, there is an open somewhere, and the common causes are the bulkhead connector and ignition switch are, but check all other connections.

Then turn the ignition off and run the ground test above. A common problem is the ground wire breaking where it connects to the breaker plate. NAPA has a repair kit.

A test light is a stone age tool. You can buy a cheap multimeter for about six bucks from Harbor Freight, and they also have coupons that gets you one for free with any other purchase. I think I've gotten about 3 free ones.

It's just a simple DC circuit that is made and broken by the point set which is just an on/off switch.

+...ign. sw....ballast...coil...points...ground

During cranking the ballast is bypassed by feeding battery voltage directly off the solenoid terminal on the starter motor to the coil.

Duke

[Donald A.]

Re: Help no spark 1963

Send your distributor to Lars in Colorado. It will come back perfectly set up for your engine.

I battled a old worn out and poorly set up unit and assure you it can really drive you crazy.

May 63, 340hp.

Worth the $130

[Stuart F.]

Re: Help no spark 1963

Before you condem the distributor you first have to get some electrical input to it, I imagine.

Stu Fox