Re: Enough..time to pull engine.
Michael-thanks for the info.
can you tell me where I can research this material also.
Francis
Michael-thanks for the info.
can you tell me where I can research this material also.
Francis
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Re: Enough..time to pull engine.
There's a wide variety of web sites and books, but this is a good site to start with
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Re: Enough..time to pull engine.
Buy one of these for $1500 paint it orange and enjoy your car. Sell the 1968 engine to the scrap yard.
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance...FQ5gMgodHCIAzQ
MikeComment
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Re: Enough..time to pull engine.
Francis, with that kind of budget you have a lot of options. However, the engine as it sits isn't geared toward performance. The 1969 327/235 was at best anemic, and with a compression ratio of only 9.0:1, it's not going to ever give you a lot of power. Even with the bigger cam you've installed and the 3947041 heads. IF you have the 2.02 intake valves and not the 1.94 valves, you're a little ahead of the game, but as they currently sit on that engine, you're not taking advantage of the higher flow. But we're not sure which 041 heads you have since you didn't stipulate that in your posts, so that's one of the things you'll need to find out for sure. 2.02 heads are much more rare than the 1.94's so unless you got lucky, they're probably the 1.94's. Get back to us on that if you can.
My PERSONAL opinion would be to take the compression ratio up to 9.5:1 or 10.0:1, but I really wouldn't go too much more than that unless you want detonation (pinging). It's no fun to drive a 11.0:1 car with the timing so retarded that you get beat by a Prius at every light!! This means new pistons and a cam that will give you good performance, good mileage and no issues with the Powerglide's stock torque converter (which I'm assuming you still have). You stated you have the 328506-8 836 cam in there now, but I'm not familiar with that one and can't find any specs on it, so I can't help you there, but since you're going to rebuild the engine anyway, it would probably be a good idea to go with a fresh cam and lifter set. I hate re-using cams and lifters, but that's just me.
Now, the hard part. Finding 327 engine components is starting to get difficult! You can't swing a dead cat without hitting 350 components, but the 327 isn't supported by a lot of aftermarket companies. There's just not enough money in it to support it. Sealed Power/Federal Mogul makes several very good engine rebuild kits for the 327 and you can get them in different oversize and compression ratios from Summit Racing or even your local NAPA dealer! If you want exotic, you'll have to have specially made stuff and THAT gets pricy.
Discuss all this with your engine builder and see what he (or she) says. If they've been in business for any length of time, they should know what to suggest based on your input and you can go from there.
I hope this helps, but to be honest, everyone out there has different ideas on how to build an engine and what parts to throw at it, so get LOTS of suggestions and work from there. You may have to settle for less compression or less cam if you have cr@p gas in your area (as I have), but for sure don't go out and build yourself a 12.0:1 monster with dual carbs and a racing cam because it just won't be drivable on the street!
EdComment
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Re: Enough..time to pull engine.
This just sounds like good advise. Sell the stuff you have, put money towards a new crate engine and turbo 400 tranny. Results will be the same as rebuilding everything plus you get better performance at less cost. Numbers matching is of no concern so this redirection will be faster and all around better performance.Buy one of these for $1500 paint it orange and enjoy your car. Sell the 1968 engine to the scrap yard.
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance...FQ5gMgodHCIAzQ
MikeComment
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Re: Enough..time to pull engine.
Edward, thanks I will consider your thoughts .I have also given thought to aComment
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Re: Enough..time to pull engine.
Francis------
You can even have a crate engine with a lot more performance than the one described above and it will cost you about the same or less than what it's going to cost you to rebuild and build up the engine you have now. You'll be amazed at how fast the costs add-up when you do a rebuild and performance upgrade these days.
And, either way, you're not going to have an original engine.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Enough..time to pull engine.
Since it's not an original block and has a Powerglide, I suggest you rebuild it to the "Special 300 HP configuration with McCagh Special cam". Since it's a large journal block, make it a 383. With that displacement and cam it will be a stump puller, even with the Powerglide, and still make about 300 SAE net at 5000 with useable revs to 5500.
The high overlap L-79 cam kills waaaaaay too much low end torque to be effective with a two-speed Powerglide. I actually designed the McCagh Special for Powerglide, but it turned out to actually work better than the "Special 300 Horsepower" cam that I designed for manual transmissions, so I recommend the McCagh Special for either manuals or automatics as long as the engine also receives the requisite head massaging and high compression ratio.
One is being broken in as we speak, and I'm trying to talk the owner into a chassis dyno test once it's dialed in.
The Fall 2010 Corvette Restorer article should get you going on what needs to be done.
My general advice is OE or OE equivalent parts - no hot rod parts.
Of course if you go with the McCagh Special you will need to buy the cam and lifters from Crane. If the engine currently has large journal rods they are probably okay to use.
You will also have to buy aftermarket pistons to achieve the target 10-10.3:1 target compression range, and Keith Black should have one that will do.
Beyond that, go to napaonline.com and search ('69 Corvette base engine) every possible part that might need to be replaced, and just go for the OE equivalent replacement parts, nothing fancy. You don't need stainless steel inlet valves, but 21-2N exhaust valves should last forever.
OE equivalent valve springs (VS677) and OE equivalent on any other valve train parts; OE replacement Sealed Power truck roller chain that costs about one-quarter of a Cloyes hot rod chain and is just as good.
There's about a 90 percent chance that the installed oil pump can be reused. It takes about 5 minute to disassemble and inspect in order to make the determination. Same goes for the rocker arms/balls.
You need to do lots of homework and manage the machine shop. It's your engine and you are paying, so make sure they do it your way.
If you want to discuss further, send me an email (NOT a PM) through the TDB.
DukeComment
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Re: Enough..time to pull engine.
Joe, thats good advice,and exactly the stuff I was looking for.
Thanks to you ,and all the members for responding to my plight.Things are much clearer now.
FRANCIS, (now which one??)Comment
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Re: Enough..time to pull engine.
Francis,
I guess the next question would be what is the condition of the PowerGlide? For the budget does it need to be rebuilt or do you want update it to a 700R4 as Gene and John mentioned. If no leaks on the driveway is your goal then the transmission too might need to be addressed.
A quick Google search turned up rebuilt 700R4 w/Torque Converter for $1200 including shipping. I remember back in the day you could get a PG rebuilt for $100-$200. Probably not many of those guys are still around that worked on them. I have no idea what they cost now to rebuild.
MikeComment
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Re: Enough..time to pull engine.
I have a '66 in my garage working on it now. It has a crate motor (ZZ4) 250HP with a power glide tranny, but its a 2400lb "old" drag race car. I am installing a FAST retro computer controlled system to control the Crower 8 port injectors. Hope to make is somewhat drivable on the street. This is what happens when we all get to old to race. NO- we have not it had it judged yet.
Injectors1.jpgComment
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Re: Enough..time to pull engine.
Duke, thanks for your take and advice on the matter.I am constantly learning form my association with all of our members,this is great ....can't say thanks enough.
FrancisComment
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Re: Enough..time to pull engine.
THANK's MIKE,The orig. alun. 2 spd .powerglide has been completely gone thru and behaves as it should.I plan on keeping it in the picture,I am told the powerglide is used in race cars (although ours is not) even today.
Francis ps I can tell you todays cost is conciderably higher today..Comment
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