1960 Universal Joint Replacement

[Joe M.]

Based on the roaring sound I hear on deceleration (sp?), I believe the u-joints need to be replaced. Any recommendations for purchasing the new parts? Is one u-joint brand as good as another? The u-joints in place now are Spicer and have been on the car since I purchased it in 1989.

Any installation tips I need to be aware of?

[Steve G.]

Re: 1960 Universal Joint Replacement

Noise on deceleration is not a typical sign of u-joint failure.

However, it is a text book sympton of a loose pinion nut.

Under acceleration the pinion is thrust forward and the crown and pinion are in their normal running position. On deceleration the pinion wants to walk back and if the nut is loose the pinion will be deep into the crown and you will get noise.

[Joe L.]

Re: 1960 Universal Joint Replacement

Based on the roaring sound I hear on deceleration (sp?), I believe the u-joints need to be replaced. Any recommendations for purchasing the new parts? Is one u-joint brand as good as another? The u-joints in place now are Spicer and have been on the car since I purchased it in 1989.

Any installation tips I need to be aware of?

Joe------


If it turns out you do need to replace the u-joints I would stay with Spicer. They are the best ones on the market today. However, current Spicer joints may be configured differently from originals. Still, they're the best. Spicer offers two types of u-joints for your application. First is the "lubed-for-life" variety (i.e. no provisions for grease fittings). This is the type that was probably originally installed on your car. The current Spicer "lubed-for-life" joints that I've seen are configured differently than originals. Spicer also offers u-joints which have grease fittings. These are usually configured very muck like the original u-joints except for the grease fittings.

[Joe M.]

Re: 1960 Universal Joint Replacement

Great advice and info. My existing Spicer u-joints have a grease fitting, but I rotated the propeller shaft around several times and never found a position where I could get my grease gun tip onto the fitting. There may be a flexible grease gun hose with reduced size tip; haven't looked into that. Were they made so that they could be lubed while on the car with the proper grease gun tip?

The 61 passenger car repair book states that growling on deceleration can be rough bearings as well as loose pinion nut.

[Joe L.]

Re: 1960 Universal Joint Replacement

Great advice and info. My existing Spicer u-joints have a grease fitting, but I rotated the propeller shaft around several times and never found a position where I could get my grease gun tip onto the fitting. There may be a flexible grease gun hose with reduced size tip; haven't looked into that. Were they made so that they could be lubed while on the car with the proper grease gun tip?

The 61 passenger car repair book states that growling on deceleration can be rough bearings as well as loose pinion nut.

Joe-------



The greasing problem you have is quite common on many applications that use u-joints with grease fittings. There is a type of grease gun attachment that's sort of like a "hypodermic needle". Supposedly, this can be inserted into the small grease hole in the grease fitting. I bought one of these years ago but never used it. I don't know if it works, or not.

[Steve G.]

Re: 1960 Universal Joint Replacement

The 61 passenger car repair book states that growling on deceleration can be rough bearings as well as loose pinion nut.

If the bearing has not failed to the extent that all the preload is gone, it will make a droning noise regardless of the direction of load. It is directly proportionate to speed only. If the bearing has failed to the extent that all the preload is gone and the pinion is walking, it will make the near identical noise to the loose pinion nut. The check is the same as for the pinion nut. Grab the yoke and see if it wiggles up and down.

I don't know off hand if your diff uses a crush sleeve or shims for bearing preload, but assuming it's a crush sleeve you will need to remove the nut, yoke, seal and front bearing in order to replace the crush sleeve if the yoke is loose. Even if it uses shims you need to always replace the nut. It's a good time to replace the front seal and check the front bearing.

Heavy duty u-joints never have grease fittings. Drilling holes in the cross weakens it. Unless you need a grease fitting for judging credits you are just as well served with a heavy duty non greasable u-joint.