mid-year rearend alignment

[Bob W.]

Sometime ago there was a post about how to do this by putting a9/16 socket between the t-arm. and the frame.
Thanks Bob

[Edward J.]

Re: mid-year rearend alingment

Bob, The only problem maybe that not all sockets have the same width or length and to many other issues can be involved also. if your dealing with the just the rolling chassis it maybe easier to use a tape measure and use the middle tread of the tire rear and middle of the front should keep at about 0 , maybe slight more toe in to the fronts.Once the car is assy.'d you will have to do by standing over the top each wheel and making a eye ball measurement. or use a some small pieces of masking tape and place the tape wear the middle tread of each tire front and rear and used Sharpe or marker and mark the tape where the middle of each tires is front and rear and then extend the marks out about 8-10 inch's roughly about the size of the tire then take a measurement at the front and the rear.

[David H.]

Re: mid-year rearend alingment

Bob,

The 9/16 (1/2" drive) inch socket approach is from the Van Steel Suspension Rebuild Video. Using a ROLLING CHASSIS in the video they use a 9/16" socket between the trailing arm/frame to set the trailing arm at approximate ride height. This approach (about 51 minutes into the video) makes it easier to install the half shaft / strut rod.

First the camber adjustment (about 58 minutes into the video) - with the rear wheels off, they place a long level vertically against the spindle flange and then adjust the camber bolt until the spindle flange is straight up and down. The strut rod bolts can then be tightened.

Next the toe-in adjustment (about 59 minutes into the video) - with the rear wheels off, they use a long straight edge (looks like a 5-6" level) pressed against the spindle flange and running lengthwise along the frame. With the trailing arm pushed inboard in the frame cavity, the forward point on the straight edge will touch the frame. The guys then slid (pushed) the trailing arm outboard on the t-arm bolt until the straight edge (pressed against the spindle flange) ran PARALLEL to the frame. Then they installed shims on either side of the trailing arm and tightened the nut.

THIS APPROACH GETS AN APPROXIMATE ALIGNMENT - GOOD ENOUGH TO GET YOU TO A PROFESSIONAL SHOP.

For me. the Van Steel Suspension Rebuilding video was very helpful.

[Jim D.]

Re: mid-year rearend alingment

THIS APPROACH GETS AN APPROXIMATE ALIGNMENT - GOOD ENOUGH TO GET YOU TO A PROFESSIONAL SHOP.

For less than the cost of two "professional" alignments, you can buy the tools to do your own alignments and get equal and probably better results. I've done my own 4 way alignments for decades on C-1's, C-2's and C-3's. I like that I can play with the specs. and actually see/feel the differences in handling rather than blindly follow what some "expert" reads out of a book.

[Rob M.]

Re: mid-year rearend alingment

Jim,

Could you please elaborate on exactly what tools you require and the process you use to get the results.

Thanks in advance

[Jim D.]

Re: mid-year rearend alingment

Jim,

Could you please elaborate on exactly what tools you require and the process you use to get the results.

Thanks in advance

All you need are some hand tools, basic alignment knowledge and one of these - http://www.spcalignment.com/componen...tion&pid=91000

[Duke W.]

Re: mid-year rearend alingment

All you need is an inclinometer to set camber. The tough part is getting toe-in equally distributed between both sides. The rear suspension must be at proper ride height (D-dimension in the shop manual and AIM). The specfic method depends on the status of the car. It is operational? Body off the frame? Spring installed?

Duke

[Bill M.]

Re: mid-year rearend alingment

I hang 2 weighted strings off the quarter panels and measure from string to wheel. I forget what the distance is but trial and error works. I use a 2 post lift or wheel dollies. I remember one of my cars had the cam washers welded to the bracket. I gues they got sick of adjusting.

[David H.]

Re: mid-year rearend alingment

... they use a long straight edge (looks like a 5-6" level) pressed against ...

Should be 5-6 foot level. For some reason I cannot edit my post.

[Joe R.]

Re: mid-year rearend alingment

David,

I think you only get 12 hours to edit one of your posts.

Joe