Fiberglass Bodywork Question

[Joseph S.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

in the 1:20 point of the You tube video, the tech is spraying a gray gelcoat onto the molds. Both 53 Corvettes I stripped had this same Gray gelcoat. 1 was an original paint car! The cloth texture should not show through in a proper restoration. This "print through" was not evident when new. Print through is a product of age and shrinkage. The gelcoat is there to suppress this for a length of time.

[Chris S.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

two i have do not have any gel coat - - they all had a brown factory primer.

[James G.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

So neat to see a gal, JILL, having fun with a vintage vette. CONGRATS on a neat job well done.

[James G.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

Good old GARY SUMMERVILLE and ROGER BRADLEY. Two FUEL INJECTION friends. Has Roger finished the 65 GREEN on white FI Convertible? I found him that car about 6 or 7 years ago

[Mark E.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

So when did Corvette transition from cloth to mat construction? And can you tell on a complete car which material was used (assuming the cloth texture isn't showing through the paint)? I'm thinking it might be apparent on the back side of the panels, floor boards, firewall?

[Rex M.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

Sometime in 1954, or late 1953, the parts were press molded. The inside of the parts would have been flattened down and you wouldn't be able to feel the raw glass. The material used was basically the same. I know because I actually molded parts in 1964.

[Chris S.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

Correct Rex - its weird as some 53's have some press molded parts and some dont
Some 54's have cloth parts especially the early ones....

[Jill J.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

Good old GARY SUMMERVILLE and ROGER BRADLEY. Two FUEL INJECTION friends. Has Roger finished the 65 GREEN on white FI Convertible? I found him that car about 6 or 7 years ago

Thanks James. Yes, Roger's 65 is finished and looks GREAT! Gary stopped by the house today to see how my blocking and sanding progress was going. I mentioned your post to him and he said hi.

Jill, 59140

[Roger W.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

Very nice work. I had never heard of "cat hair" before. There is always something to learn on this board.

[Bill L.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

Jill:

Excellent photo set! It really helps to see this kind of detail!

Regards
Bill

[Bill L.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

Jill:

Excellent photo set! It really helps to see this kind of detail!

Regards
Bill

[Dan P.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

Always measure your catalyst . I use a syringe with the CC marks . Never ever never just guess.Guessing is the main reason the repairs show up after painting.You can buy laminating resin which has longer working time . You can actually let it set overnight and put on more the next day . I know people say it shrinks and will show the repair in the paint .That is because it was not fully cured before top coating.Laminating resin is the same as the regular stuff but without the wax additive.If you use laminating resin it is best to let it cure a couple a long time before top coating and i would use a heat lamp on it to make sure it is fully cured before top coating.In fact i use a heat lamp after all of the repairs . You can also buy slower hardener.Gives you more working time. I like the slower hardener .I worked as a body man at Chevrolet dealer back in the day .We had trouble with body putty . When it got hot outside the panels would get wavy .That is because the body putty and the fiberglass expands and contracts at a different rate .3M makes a Vinyl ester putty for fiberglass which corrects this problem.You will have to get it a marine supply house.

[Dan P.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

After i am done with repair i put a piece of plastic over it and then use the roller or dry brush to work out all the air bubbles .Painters plastic tarp works the best . You can even use your wife's plastic food wrap . You can see all the air bubbles right through the plastic. When it hardens the plastic will peal right off.No clean up needed for the roller.Make sure the backside of the repair is solid or you will get air bubbles . Masking tape and putty spreaders work great.You can also use masking tape on the top to hold everything down .I will also use a deep well socket on top to hild the mat down in tight corner. After curing the tape will peal right off.I try and sand every thin the same day while the resin is soft.Sands a lot easier .I wash the cured resin with thinner and scotch brite pad to get the scum off of top so it does not clog up the paper . I like 3m hookit paper because if the paper does clog i remove it form the sander and bead blast it and reuse it .

[Jill J.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

Hi Dan.

I never thought about using a plastic overlay to squish out all of the air bubbles. I'm going to try that on my few remaining repairs.

Jill, 59140

[Rex M.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

You know what really gets me after watching the Youtube is they have no gloves on or masks and dressed in white. The fumes coming off of a piece that large would be breathtaking. Almost to the point of burning your eyes. With no gloves and handling the glass mat, you would get extreme iching in your hands. The resin doesn't just wipe off either, that would have taken, in those days methene chloride or acetone to wash off. I know they were trying to impress GM on how easy fiberglass was but boy would OSHA have a field day if done today.