rear spindle flange

[Michael B.]

Hi All

On my 77
I was getting on-car brake lathing done at all 4 corners. Fronts went fine but they had to stop on the rears because the machine would not proceed. The rear spindle flange was too far out. They didn't see a wobble on the spindle shaft.

These were part of a completely rebuilt trailing arm assembly, one of the few things I had done by someone else.

My question is simply this; given there is less than 1000 gentle miles on the car since total rebuild is it possible to unbolt and slide out the spindle (with it's outer bearing) and slide in a replacement, or is that wishful thinking. I did review the service manual and given the number of shims, bearings, races ... I'm guessing it's start from scratch.

I'll have it up on the hoist to check both sides at home but just wanted the expert view for the isolated part.

Thanks.


Michael B.

[Michael W.]

Re: rear spindle flange

Yes, it's possible to substitute a new spindle assuming the bearings are not damaged during the process, but why are you having the rotors turned in the first place? How much runout have you got?

[Michael B.]

Re: rear spindle flange

Hi Michael

The fronts had about 6-7 thou which tapered shims would not resolve fully. I also changed to stock (raybestos) solid rotors to allow proper machining. The rears I don't know off hand but since I was doing the fronts I did the rears. If the machine stopped the runout would have been out of scope for the machine to proceed. I'll know when I get the dial gauge on it.

The only good news here is that it gave me root cause for what was otherwise completely new/rebuilt assemblies having to need constant bleeding.

Cheers.

[John H.]

Re: rear spindle flange

I also changed to stock (raybestos) solid rotors to allow proper machining.

Michael -

Why would you install SOLID rotors (which were NEVER used on Corvettes)? They won't dissipate heat like the stock ventilated rotors.

[Michael B.]

Re: rear spindle flange

John

Pardon the mis-use of the term solid. The facing was smooth so it could be machined as opposed to drilled or slotted facing. The rotors are OEM. Raybestos was chosen by that chevy dealer who happen to specialize in Corvette because they didn't like the quality of boxed stock that were sent to them by GM. So they went with a higher quality that have a smooth machined surface but are VENTED.

Cheers.

Michael B.

[Joe L.]

Re: rear spindle flange

John

Pardon the mis-use of the term solid. The facing was smooth so it could be machined as opposed to drilled or slotted facing. The rotors are OEM. Raybestos was chosen by that chevy dealer who happen to specialize in Corvette because they didn't like the quality of boxed stock that were sent to them by GM. So they went with a higher quality that have a smooth machined surface but are VENTED.

Cheers.

Michael B.

Michael-------

The GM rotors are the ONLY rotors which were ever the same as original equipment and could be described as OEM. However, those rotors have not been available for YEARS. If you're talking about current AC-Delco rotors, those are definitely NOT OEM, no matter what they might say. Those are strictly aftermarket rotors.

[Gary R.]

Re: rear spindle flange

Mike,
If you try to remove the spindle you're going to have to start over most likely. The bearings should be press fit on both inner & outer so you're going to have to drive or press them out. The load is going to be on the inner bearing and most likely will wreck it. I certainly wouldn't use one after driving out. Without the spindle there is no way to machine the rotor on the car anyway.

Before you start turning a chip I would bolt the rotors on, remove the 1/2 shafts and even the caliper. Now the arm is free except for the parking brakes. Then bolt on the rotor and check it with a real indicator, not a Chinese piece of junk - trust me on this. I built 100's of arms and never take a chip on them. I have machined spindles and found there is still runout using new or used original rotors.

I have shimmed rotors to under 0025" without any issues at all. It is not going to warp the rotor, cause more runout-if done correctly, and will solve your runout issue. I bolt the rotors on to the axles but you can still use the lug studs if you like. Bottom line is you don't need to turn a chip in this case to resolve the problem.