Power window regulator removal

[Jack J.]

I'm having great difficulty trying to remove the driver's side regulator. Everything is loose but I cannot get the glass out. What is the removal procedure sequence? The 63 & 64 repair manuals are of no help at least to me. Thank you, Jack J.

[Gene M.]

Re: Power window regulator removal

There are two studs with nuts at each end of the window sash securing it to the slide of the regulator that need to be removed. Slide out the slide rail and window should be free.

[Jack J.]

Re: Power window regulator removal

Every screw and nut has been removed from the door and the window and vent regulators. I can' t maneuver the glass out from the door. It's obvious that on assembly, the power window motor went in first, the vent window regulator next?? . but because it's a Coupe, I'm not sure just how they maneuvered the door glass into the rear side and front channels. Jack J.

[Jack J.]

Re: Power window regulator removal

Every screw and nut has been removed from the door and the window and vent regulators. I can' t maneuver the glass out from the door. It's obvious that on assembly, the power window motor went in first, the vent window regulator next?? . but because it's a Coupe, I'm not sure just how they maneuvered the door glass into the rear side and front channels. Jack J.

[Ed S.]

Re: Power window regulator removal

Jack
Take a look at the attached PDF - it discusses door components, glass removal etc for a C2 that has power windows. I think you will find an answer to your question(s). Hope it helps. By the way - I am not the author of the document - cannot take credit for it. I will say that it was extremely helpful when I was restoring some door and window hardware on my C2 convertible - non-power window car.

Uh, there is a problem in attaching the pdf file. The document I was trying to attach is a great how-to document. It is in the NCRS archives but would be easier to find by doing an internet search for "Overview of some Corvette (mid-year) door anatomy" by Dave Zuberer, updated April 2014

[Jim S.]

Re: Power window regulator removal

here it is :http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...natomy-Mod.pdf

[Mike T.]

Re: Power window regulator removal

Jack - Jim's link will show you the way. In a nutshell, removing the wing window assembly first, after dropping the window down into the door cavity is what you'll be looking at.

[Jack J.]

Re: Power window regulator removal

Thanks Ed & Jim. Finally removed everything from driver's side door. Now onto passenger side. I tried several times to remove the lower adjustment stud but it would only turn 90 degrees either way (rusted) and I was unsure how it was attached and I didn't want to break it. I suspected some sort of attachment for the bottom rear seal ( the screw), but I couldn't see it. Both of these items were removed AFTER the assemblies were out of the car. The passenger side should go MUCH easier. As far as re-assembly, I'm still vague on the sequence of the installation of the assemblies, that is, what step is the glass installation and what is the very last step? Again, thanks.

[Ed S.]

Re: Power window regulator removal

Jack,
The short answer is regulator (and in your case motor) go in first, then any vertical tracks you removed - glass goes in last - and it is best to have the rear vertical track lose so it can move freely while you juggle the glass into the front & rear tracks. After the glass is in position you begin to tighten all the various mechanisms and tracks that the window is in contact with. Getting it right so it closes completely and there are no air gaps (or it is not too tight) is a trial and error process. You did not say if you have a convertible or coupe. If a convertible, you will want to have the top up and secured in place in order to assess the fit of the glass to the weather stripping that is part of the fold down top. The very last thing to do of course is reinstall the door panel and associated parts, door knob, vent window crank and seal, etc. I am in the process of refurbishing a lot of door / window related parts for my 64 convertible. Got the passenger side done - now working on the drivers side. I did all weather stripping, cleaned & lubricated moving parts, new or polished bright work, gaskets seals etc.

[Jack J.]

Re: Power window regulator removal

Ed, would like to know just what you did as far as refurbishing the metal parts?

[Ed S.]

Re: Power window regulator removal

Jack - I'll give you the long version starting with metal parts that are inside the door or behind the door panel. Other than the vent window regulator I didn't have to repair or replace any "metal" parts. I did replace felt and rubber weather stripping associated with the vent window and door glass. If a metal part was lubricated - and a lot of the lubrication was dried out and flaky - I cleaned it and applied a light coat of fresh lube. (Dry) metal parts were cleaned with a wire wheel. I have a 6 inch bench grinder and a number of wire wheels of different stiffness. I find using a soft metal (not brass) wire wheel does an excellent job in cleaning threads of screws and nuts, and it also knocks surface rust off of non-bright work (bare metal) like the window tracks - things that are not visible when assembled.

Metal parts that are visible when assembled (bright work, chrome plated, stainless steel, aluminum etc - but not chrome plated plastic.) My original chrome plated window cranks and door lock disks (with the red reflectors) were badly pitted so I had to by replacements from Paragon, they look very good - identical to the originals. I removed all the aluminum and stainless pieces from the door panel and buffed them on my bench grinder. I use a soft cotton wheel and red jewelers rouge - once you get the technique down you can make these parts really bright and shiny - they look great. The jewelers rouge will remove minor surface scratches as well. Buffing chrome plated parts like the vent window frame comes out great too. You could do just as good a job rubbing it with a cloth and polish - the buffing wheel is much faster.

You didn't ask but I will suggest to you that if you have go so far as to remove the door glass take the time to replace all the felt and rubber weatherstripping associated with the window - unless of course yours is in good condition. FYI - I also applied a layer of 1/8 inch thick Dynamat inside the doors when I had the glass out - I applied it to the outside wall of the door top to bottom across the full width - be sure not to cover the drain holes at the bottom of the door. It made a significant difference in the sound of the door closing - sounds more like a Cadillac than a Chevy if you know what I mean. And if you have a coupe it will reduce road noise.