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Coil spring removal

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  • Eric E.
    Very Frequent User
    • November 1, 1998
    • 254

    #16
    Re: Coil spring removal

    Justin, I have a local Fastenal that I am going to visit. I got a 3' piece of 1/2" but I am still hesitant to use it. I guess way to many nerves on this process and want to make sure I have a strong enough rod. Did they have multiple grades of threaded rod? Want to make sure I get the right one. Thanks, Eric

    Comment

    • Justin S.
      Very Frequent User
      • July 3, 2013
      • 289

      #17
      Re: Coil spring removal

      Eric,
      Use the acme thread and back it up with 3" washers. Run a chain around the control arms and through the spring for extra safety. You'll be fine.
      Justin

      Comment

      • Richard M.
        Super Moderator
        • August 31, 1988
        • 11302

        #18
        Re: Coil spring removal

        I also use the all-thread on occasion but to ad to the information, I use this internal coil spring compressor from Northern Tool. Lists for $40.

        Item# 9094291

        9094291_700x700.jpg

        I use it on 1956 to 1982 Corvettes, along with other marques on occasion.

        It has removable bolts to hold the fingers. In some cases with the narrower diameter C1 coil springs it's necessary to take it apart to get the finger hooks in place, then I simply reattach the pull blocks to the fingers through the coil wire separations. The fingers can be "screwed" up high into the spring for extra pull length if needed.

        The nice thing about the internal finger puller is that it can be left in place to hold the spring compressed loosely in the upper tower and lower perch to perform tasks which do not require complete control arm removal. Example would be to rotate the spring due to improper orientation in the spring perch stops. I've had a few that were not properly installed with the ends of the coils not oriented properly. This is a pain with the C2 heavy duty F40/F41 7 coil monsters.

        Rich

        Comment

        • Donald H.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • November 2, 2009
          • 2580

          #19
          Re: Coil spring removal

          Originally posted by Eric Eade (31337)
          Justin, I have a local Fastenal that I am going to visit. I got a 3' piece of 1/2" but I am still hesitant to use it. I guess way to many nerves on this process and want to make sure I have a strong enough rod. Did they have multiple grades of threaded rod? Want to make sure I get the right one. Thanks, Eric
          I would suggest you order the 5/8" rod instead of the 1/2" you have now.

          Don
          Don Harris
          Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
          Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)

          Comment

          • Eric E.
            Very Frequent User
            • November 1, 1998
            • 254

            #20
            Re: Coil spring removal

            Originally posted by Justin Sibbring (58615)
            Eric,
            Use the acme thread and back it up with 3" washers. Run a chain around the control arms and through the spring for extra safety. You'll be fine.
            Justin
            Thanks Justin, how do you run a chain through the spring without it getting in the way of the spring compression? I am putting mine back together as I had a shop disassemble the front end when I stripped the frame a few years back.

            Comment

            • Eric E.
              Very Frequent User
              • November 1, 1998
              • 254

              #21
              Re: Coil spring removal

              Originally posted by Donald Harris (51003)
              I would suggest you order the 5/8" rod instead of the 1/2" you have now.

              Don
              Don, I will be stopping down this week to pick up some 5/8" and in like the idea of the coupling nuts. I also have a shopping list to build a 3rd arm bearing puller. Got to love the one time use tools that we need! Thanks

              Comment

              • Eric E.
                Very Frequent User
                • November 1, 1998
                • 254

                #22
                Re: Coil spring removal

                Originally posted by Richard Mozzetta (13499)
                I also use the all-thread on occasion but to ad to the information, I use this internal coil spring compressor from Northern Tool. Lists for $40.

                Item# 9094291

                [ATTACH=CONFIG]66167[/ATTACH]

                I use it on 1956 to 1982 Corvettes, along with other marques on occasion.

                It has removable bolts to hold the fingers. In some cases with the narrower diameter C1 coil springs it's necessary to take it apart to get the finger hooks in place, then I simply reattach the pull blocks to the fingers through the coil wire separations. The fingers can be "screwed" up high into the spring for extra pull length if needed.

                The nice thing about the internal finger puller is that it can be left in place to hold the spring compressed loosely in the upper tower and lower perch to perform tasks which do not require complete control arm removal. Example would be to rotate the spring due to improper orientation in the spring perch stops. I've had a few that were not properly installed with the ends of the coils not oriented properly. This is a pain with the C2 heavy duty F40/F41 7 coil monsters.

                Rich
                thanks Rich, looks like this is Perfomance Tools sold through the quite a number of sources. I see on one site that JEGs list it for larger spring diameters the our C1s. When you adjust it, do you find that the ears still hook well over the coils? Bear with me, I tend to overthink this stuff.

                Comment

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