I am looking for suggestion on brake fluid type for my 63 vett. All brake systems have been rebuilt with new parts. But some time has passed and I would like to replace all fluid. Also looking for suggestion for capture container for removing old fluid without getting fluid all over car/garage floor.
63 brake fluid
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Re: 63 brake fluid
Richard,
I probably won't give you a cheap way out, but I do it differently than most here on the forum. I built a pressure bleader that pushes the fluid up from the bottom. I think they can be bought. One can do it alone but it is easier with two. It hooks to the bleed at the drum and pushes the fluid to the master cylinder. I use a rubber bulb to suck the master cylinder fluid out then push the fluid up and suck the fluid out as it slowly fills the master. a second person makes it easy. the pressure can only be about 20PSI or it will compress any bubbles in the line. I stars at the back and then the fronts. the other system is also good that pushes from the master down thru the lines but can get a bit messy when removed. the line on my system is clear (bought from the hardware) and any bubbles can be bled out in a can before hook up. the hose fits tightly on the bleeder.
Other than that, the good old hose in the jar and someone working the pedal works.
I made mine years ago and have 3 different pressure bleeders foe each type of fluid I use.
Dom- Top
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Re: 63 brake fluid
BleederBottle800.JPG- Top
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Re: 63 brake fluid
Rich- Top
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Re: 63 brake fluid
John-- I have a pressure bleeder that I think is a Motive Power. It came with a screw cap adapter that fits MB and BMW master cylinders, but I did not notice an adapter for old Corvette master cylinders. Did you make yours or buy it somewhere?- Top
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Re: 63 brake fluid
I am looking for suggestion on brake fluid type for my 63 vett. All brake systems have been rebuilt with new parts. But some time has passed and I would like to replace all fluid. Also looking for suggestion for capture container for removing old fluid without getting fluid all over car/garage floor.- Top
Comment
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Re: 63 brake fluid
Richard,
I probably won't give you a cheap way out, but I do it differently than most here on the forum. I built a pressure bleader that pushes the fluid up from the bottom. I think they can be bought. One can do it alone but it is easier with two. It hooks to the bleed at the drum and pushes the fluid to the master cylinder. I use a rubber bulb to suck the master cylinder fluid out then push the fluid up and suck the fluid out as it slowly fills the master. a second person makes it easy. the pressure can only be about 20PSI or it will compress any bubbles in the line. I stars at the back and then the fronts. the other system is also good that pushes from the master down thru the lines but can get a bit messy when removed. the line on my system is clear (bought from the hardware) and any bubbles can be bled out in a can before hook up. the hose fits tightly on the bleeder.
Other than that, the good old hose in the jar and someone working the pedal works.
I made mine years ago and have 3 different pressure bleeders foe each type of fluid I use.
Dom
Rich- Top
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Re: 63 brake fluid
I use margerine tubs to capture the expelled fluid and about 1/8" clear vinyl tubing (about 18-24" lengths) between the bleed valves and tubs. Something like a clear beer bottle will also work, but they tip over easily.
Start by siphoning the old fluid out of the m/c. Inspect the bottom of the reservoir for any sludge or debris and clean with Q-tips if necessary. Fill the m/c with fresh fluid and loosely install the cap. Start with the LF and give the pedal 6 strokes. Then go to the RF and another six strokes, then LR, 8-10 strokes and RR 6 strokes. Note that the sequence is shortest to longest line, which aids in expelling the old fluid in those lines in the least number of strokes. Repeat the process with about 6 strokes at each corner 3-4 times. That should result in about a quart of fluid flushed through the system (which holds about 0.65 pint), which should thoroughly flush the system of old fluid, and on the last round the expelled fluid should look new.
Keep a wet rag handy to immediately wipe up any fluid that spills out of the m/c. Every time you stroke the pedal a little geyser of fluid will shoot up until the compensating port is closed. Some of this may seep out with loosely installed cap, and it will attack painted surfaces if not wiped up right away.
Check the reservoir level frequenty until you figure out how many strokes it takes to deplete the level down to a reasonable refill level. if it empties, air will get into the system, and you have to essentially start over.
DOT 3 is okay. I prefer DOT 4 due to the higher wet and dry boiling points, and DOT 4 fluids may have a better corrosion inhibitor package.
Duke- Top
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Re: 63 brake fluid
All good information. As the cool season is fast approaching, this will be my first project. I too use DOT 4 ever since I replaced my sintered metallic linings and all components a few years back. It seems to work great here in Florida even with our high heat and humidity. My metric ceramic linings are doing a great job too. I don't miss the metallics at all.
Stu Fox- Top
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