C2 Headlight operation switch

[Rich G.]

I just had the motors for the head lamps rebuilt on my 66. The switch that operates them is flakey. It's one I bought 13 years ago and probably not OEM or even equivalent from a current rating standpoint. The headlights operate perfectly with The switch bypassed, in other words connecting the wires the way the switch should if it worked but they operate erratically when using the switch.

So, what is the best source for this switch, assuming there is one?

Rich

[Bill L.]

Re: C2 Headlight operation switch

Hi Rich:

I had a slightly different problem on my '67 -- few if any components wired through the head-light switch worked. I sourced one from Paragon although I suspect that others will weigh in with different sources as well.... the part I got from them fit perfectly and the issues were cured immediately --- the switch I replaced was an original and it just was not doing its job any longer. See below:

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I don't recall where this one is made --- but probably was an out-of-country repro given the rather low price --- but it fits and it works well---

I also seem to recall that Doc Rebuild had a couple of NOS pieces but not sure if they are still available...

There is also one on e-bay right now at $180 (original NOS piece --- appears to be correct for mid-years and other cars too --- so not sure about it--- the link is below) ---- seems like a ton of money for something that you can't see unless you crawl under the gauge panel ---

http://www.ebay.com/itm/g-NOS-64-74-Chevelle-Nova-64-67-CORVETTE-Olds-F85-Head-Light-Switch-GM-1995164-/221861899130?fits=Year%3A1967%7CModel%3ACorvette&hash=item33a7ffeb7a&vxp=mtr

Hope this helps...

Regards
Bill

[Bruce B.]

Re: C2 Headlight operation switch

The switch currently available that raises the headlights is a very poor reproduction.
Find a NOS one if you want one that works.
I recently found one for $125.00

[Norm B.]

Re: C2 Headlight operation switch

I had some success with taking the switch apart and cleaning the points. It is a quite simple apparatus inside. If you look on the side of the switch there are two little holes where you can push in a paper clip or similar wire to release the clips that hold the switch together. That lasted for a while but eventually the lobes on the rocker inside the switch wore down too far for me to do anything with it. If you do dismantle your switch be very careful with the clips, they are virtually impossible to find.

I can't help you with a source for a repro as I managed to find a switch at Carlisle that had good guts which I salvaged.

[Joe R.]

Re: C2 Headlight operation switch

The 63-67 headlight switch for raising and lowering the headlight buckets was available from GM dealers p/n 5716297. Listing for somewhere in the $100.00 range. Still available when I last checked.

JR

[Richard M.]

Re: C2 Headlight operation switch

This one was very intermittent, even tested bad on the bench using a ohm meter.

Carefully push those little tabs of the retainer clips on the sides of the switch, remove the clips to take it apart.

Clean the contacts thoroughly and bend them a bit to ensure a more firm pressure when activated, and it'll probably be just fine. Test it again after assembly to verify clean contacts. This one came out fine.

Also clean to outer contact points and the harness connector with a pointy tipped object.

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[Rich G.]

Re: C2 Headlight operation switch

Thanks to all for the info. My switch has been apart and the contacts are burned probably due to the high current draw from the bad motor. When it was taken apart ( not by me) it got made worse. So I'll check out the various sources. The shop does have one on order but it's been two weeks which probably means back order. They placed an order with Eklers

Also got a good heads up from Vinnie P about an article coming in the next Restorer. Thanks Vin!

Rich

[Timothy B.]

Re: C2 Headlight operation switch

Rich, Many times these contacts will loose there plating and after they are cleaned they work for a while then burn and develop resistance again.

[Robert K.]

Re: C2 Headlight operation switch

Tim,
Do you know what "coating" GM ( or the supplier" used on these contacts. I'm wondering if they can be re-plated.....

Thanks,

Bob

[Richard M.]

Re: C2 Headlight operation switch

Probably beryllium copper.

[Phillip M.]

Re: C2 Headlight operation switch

Rich, Many times these contacts will loose there plating and after they are cleaned they work for a while then burn and develop resistance again.

In 2007 I rebuilt the headlight switch in my '67 and it worked Ok for about 2 years until one day when it began to smoke when actuated! Took the switch apart again and found that contacts were arcing so bad that a small amount of dust was ignited. I again cleaned the contacts and this time decided to coat the contacts with a small amount of electrical grease made for that purpose. The grease I used was supplied by a John Deere dealer for use with high amperage contacts (had a similar contact problem with the elec. start circuit in my snow blower). The contact grease seems to have done the trick as I have not had a problem with the switch in 6 years.
Phil M.

[Richard M.]

Re: C2 Headlight operation switch

Yes so much current is passed through these switches, This is exacerbated by the design of the headlight door system. Because there is NO limit switch to disable power when the doors reach either up or down limit, higher current, exceeding normal draw occurs.

This problem has been happening since the beginning of C2 time and may be part of the reason that the 1968 to 1982 headlight door design went to a vacuum operated system. Then back to electrical in later years, then of course done away with completely in the 2005 & up C6,C7 years.

Obviously to me, not done for cost reasons, the original C2 design should have incorporated switching relays to minimize current through the roll-up/down switch.

This could be easily done with a little wiring and a jumper plug between the switch and harness and a few 12v relays. I may fiddle up a wiring diagram for the circuit if anybody's interested. I could make it so it's removable for judging.

Some of you may recall the relays I incorporated into a 1956 Power Top system to reduce solenoid current draw through the 18 Gauge system wiring and control switches from 12-15 amps to about 0.2 amps.

Rich

[Ara G.]

Re: C2 Headlight operation switch

Rich, A side note. IF you find an NOS one it will likely have the longer tab for up/down operation. The originals had the shorter tab. An easy fix. Carefully remove the retaining clips holding the unit to the body, swap the longer tab for a shorter one (find a junk original switch with the correct tab) and replace the unit and the clips and you're good to go. Obviously this would be for judging purposes and unnecessary if you aren't going to have the car judged. The tabs just rest in a recess in the body. Easily done. ARA

[Rich G.]

Re: C2 Headlight operation switch

Phil

Thanks for that info. I had thought that might be a possibility as I have had some success with that sort of stuff in other applications. Unfortunately the switch I have may not be repairable due to the way the shop took it apart. I may have a line on a used OEM switch and I still have the repo one on order.

The information in this thread will come in very handy when I have to rework one or both of those!

Rich

[Rich G.]

Re: C2 Headlight operation switch

Yes so much current is passed through these switches, This is exacerbated by the design of the headlight door system. Because there is NO limit switch to disable power when the doors reach either up or down limit, higher current, exceeding normal draw occurs.

This problem has been happening since the beginning of C2 time and may be part of the reason that the 1968 to 1982 headlight door design went to a vacuum operated system. Then back to electrical in later years, then of course done away with completely in the 2005 & up C6,C7 years.

Obviously to me, not done for cost reasons, the original C2 design should have incorporated switching relays to minimize current through the roll-up/down switch.

This could be easily done with a little wiring and a jumper plug between the switch and harness and a few 12v relays. I may fiddle up a wiring diagram for the circuit if anybody's interested. I could make it so it's removable for judging.

Some of you may recall the relays I incorporated into a 1956 Power Top system to reduce solenoid current draw through the 18 Gauge system wiring and control switches from 12-15 amps to about 0.2 amps.

Rich

Rich

I had the same thought about using relays in a simple circuit. My car is never going to be judged although I'm sure your idea could be made undetectable. I even thought about getting the proper toggle switch with an appropriate current rating and using that and give the next owner the option of which switch the wanted.

Rich G. (Electrical Engineering Northeastern U. 1969)