How & What to use to Repaint 71 Frame?

[Paul C.]

My frame was sprayed with rust proofing and I am trying to remove it with a needle scaler. How clean do I have to get the frame before painting? Anyway to get all the rust off---remember doing this by hand. Should I primer it first and what is the best semigloss paint to use on am uneven less than pristine surface? What sticks and looks the best? Thanks Paul

[Mike E.]

Re: How & What to use to Repaint 71 Frame?

Paul,

Is body is still on the frame? IMO it makes a difference if the body is on or off the frame as to what technique you use to clean it with.


Mike

[Paul C.]

Re: How & What to use to Repaint 71 Frame?

The body is still on the frame.

[Bill L.]

Re: How & What to use to Repaint 71 Frame?

The body is still on the frame.

I have been working on my frame (70) for a while with the body on. It is quite an undertaking. If planning to have judged than the cleaner the better before re-coating IMHO. A combination of wire wheels does really well along with a red scotch brite pad wheel will get the frame down to bare metal. I do not have a compressor so I am using a high speed drill. Once down to bare metal use lacquer thinner to wipe everything down to be painted and then duplicator makes a prep sol type product that will remove any remaining residue.

The finish is more satin to be accurate and Rustoleum Satin goes on nice. No idea how it will hold up. I did not prime since the factory did not prime.

Make sure to tape over everything you don't want painted. This part can be very tedious. I used blue tape and tin foil depending on what I was covering.

Keep in mind that while the body was still on the frame the gas tank was out as was the enter rear suspension. I am still working on the front and that suspension has been removed as well. Both front and rear suspension on my 70 needed work so it was part of the oh by the ways.

Below is picture of a small part of the rear frame.

Bill

Frame 2.jpg

[Paul C.]

Re: How & What to use to Repaint 71 Frame?

Thank you Bill. That's exactly the information I was looking for. Do you mind if I contact you if I have additional questions?

Your frame looks great!!! Hope mine looks half that good.

Paul

[Bill L.]

Re: How & What to use to Repaint 71 Frame?

Hi Paul,

Feel free to contact me. Recommended safety equipment is a mask and goggles. Also cover up anything you may not want to get dusty as dust flies everywhere.

Bill 301-440-0838 cell/text

[Mark E.]

Re: How & What to use to Repaint 71 Frame?

Like Bill, I'm also working on my '70's frame a section at a time with the body installed. I built this car as an original looking driver, not for judging, so I decided to use POR-15 semi-gloss black. My prep process:

- Spray with Dawn diluted with warm water; scrub with a brass brush, stiff nylon brush, Scotch Brite, or shop rag (depending on the level of grime); hose off. Repeat as needed. This does a great job of removing grease, oil, grime.
- Unfasten easy stuff like brake/fuel line clips
- Apply wax & grease remover
- DA sand with 80 grit, die grind with a sanding pad, and/or Scotch Brite by hand (depending on access)
- Treat bare metal areas with metal prep
- Blow off, carefully mask/tape, tack rag.
- Sponge brush POR-15. Instructions say ok to apply over rust but the finish is better if prepared better. This stuff requires a unique application technique (brush in one direction; time between coats) so be sure to follow the directions.

I started a couple of years ago working a section at a time. I finished the frame around the front and rear suspension when those were rebuilt, so I was able to reach virtually all of the frame in those areas. I couldn't access the top side of the frame where it's near the body but that's not readily visible without a mirror. I can only tolerate doing this a couple of hours at a time so it's still a work in process with the tranny cross member yet to do.

Sponge brushing left a smooth, uniform finish with virtually no brush marks. It looks more dipped than brushed, which is an unexpected bonus. The level of gloss is about right; maybe a touch more sheen than original. And the POR-15 finish has been indestructible so far: While working on the car, I've accidentally dripped/sprayed gasoline, brake fluid and brake cleaner on the finish with no effect. And no chips or scratches from using the floor jack.

BUT it does not look original... the finish is thicker, smoother and more uniform than a judge would like to see.

And using POR-15 is a permanent decision; I can't imagine trying to remove it.

[Paul C.]

Re: How & What to use to Repaint 71 Frame?

I decided since I'm at it to remove the upper and lower A arms and send them to Bairs to get rebuilt and also the ball joints. I had all this apart before when I replaced the springs, etc--I knew I should have just done everything. Once you start where do you draw the line?? Never an end.

I have painted a few things with POR-15 probably to shiny but too bad--it really protects.

[Mark E.]

Re: How & What to use to Repaint 71 Frame?

I have painted a few things with POR-15 probably to shiny but too bad--it really protects.

Did you use Gloss Black or Semi Gloss Black? Semi Gloss has just a bit more sheen than original, but looks OEM to the casual eye.

I haven't used it, but a "Chassis Black" top coat product is also available.

[Bill L.]

Re: How & What to use to Repaint 71 Frame?

I decided since I'm at it to remove the upper and lower A arms and send them to Bairs to get rebuilt and also the ball joints. I had all this apart before when I replaced the springs, etc--I knew I should have just done everything. Once you start where do you draw the line?? Never an end.

I have painted a few things with POR-15 probably to shiny but too bad--it really protects.

Hi Paul,

POR 15 has a really nice tie coat sandable primer. Even though I had very little rust on the windshield frame I used POR 15. Then used the POR 15 Tie coat sandable primer and then top coated with a more typical black satin paint. The tie coat primer sands very nicely and will eliminate any brush marks if there are any. You can then use a more factory typical top coat on your frame.

There are NO ball joints that are the same as factory in appearance and likely quality. I looked for quite a while and did find NOS lower ball joints. Uppers are easier to find and do not cost quite as much as lowers. They are not cheap but are correct in all aspects. Upper ball joints rarely wear out even with a big block if properly greased unless very high mileage. Uppers were fine on my 70 and lowers were toast at 115k miles. Replacement ball joints that imitate originals are not grease-able either. One of my pet peeves is that you would think that a vendor would have correct ball joints made as I am sure most guys would be happy to pay $250 for a correct reproduction ball joint. There is one vendor claiming their ball joints are 100% correct and will receive full judging points. I am not sure if they will receive full points but once you have seen an original the reproductions are obvious.

Bill