Front Caliper mounting bracket for 69

[Michael L.]

Guys I'm trying to reassemble my front spindle set up and my caliper mounting bracket seems to have an inch plus gap between the spindle and bracket. Sadly, I disassembled this car too many years ago and can't remember how it goes back together. Is there something between the caliper mounting bracket and the spindle? Is it part of the steering assembly? Also, is it ok to use the spindle nut to draw the new bearing races into the rotor? Or do I need to press them in with a press? Thanks

Mike

[Terry M.]

Re: Front Caliper mounting bracket for 69

I can't tell you about the caliper bracket, but the spindle bearing races should go on by hand. No need for a press or use the spindle nut. Be sure you have the correct bearing. There were different size bearings for 1968 and earlier than for 1969 and later. The 1969 + spindle bearings are larger than the earlier bearings.

[Michael L.]

Re: Front Caliper mounting bracket for 69

Ok. The box says 69-82 front inner bearing. The pic I attached shows the furthest on the spindle I can get the bearing. I tried pulling it on with the spindle nut but it didn't work. Not really sure what to do.

[Michael L.]

Re: Front Caliper mounting bracket for 69

Also the front seal that goes on before anything else has a lip to it an I'm not sure if the lip goes in or out?

[Joe L.]

Re: Front Caliper mounting bracket for 69

I can't tell you about the caliper bracket, but the spindle bearing races should go on by hand. No need for a press or use the spindle nut. Be sure you have the correct bearing. There were different size bearings for 1968 and earlier than for 1969 and later. The 1969 + spindle bearings are larger than the earlier bearings.

Terry and Michael------

The INNER bearing races are a slip fit on the spindle and are pulled into place by the spindle nut. That's why the instructions are to tighten the spindle nut to a specified torque, then back-off the nut. This sets the bearings. However, the OUTER races should never be seated by using the spindle nut and bearing assembly. The OUTER races need to be driven into the hub using an appropriate bearing race driver. They can also be installed with a press but it's not absolutely necessary.

[Joe L.]

Re: Front Caliper mounting bracket for 69

Ok. The box says 69-82 front inner bearing. The pic I attached shows the furthest on the spindle I can get the bearing. I tried pulling it on with the spindle nut but it didn't work. Not really sure what to do.

Michael-------


Something is wrong here. The inner bearing should be a slip fit on the spindle (it's different for the rear bearings but that's irrelevant here). Either this bearing is not correct or there's a burr on the spindle shaft or inner bearing ID.

The ID of the bearing's inner race should be 1.3750"

[Joe L.]

Re: Front Caliper mounting bracket for 69

Also the front seal that goes on before anything else has a lip to it an I'm not sure if the lip goes in or out?

Michael------


There should be a manufacturer's ID and/or part number stamped into the metal frame of the seal. That goes OUT.

[Terry M.]

Re: Front Caliper mounting bracket for 69

Terry and Michael------

The INNER bearing races are a slip fit on the spindle and are pulled into place by the spindle nut. That's why the instructions are to tighten the spindle nut to a specified torque, then back-off the nut. This sets the bearings. However, the OUTER races should never be seated by using the spindle nut and bearing assembly. The OUTER races need to be driven into the hub using an appropriate bearing race driver. They can also be installed with a press but it's not absolutely necessary.

We are saying the same thing with regard to the inner races on the spindle. You said slip fit and I said by hand. That is the same thing.

Yes the final loading of both the inner and outer bearing is using the spindle nut, but Michael isn't that far yet. There is apparently something wrong with the fit between the spindle and the inner race, and he has to get that resolved before he can seat the bearing assembly.

[Joe L.]

Re: Front Caliper mounting bracket for 69

We are saying the same thing with regard to the inner races on the spindle. You said slip fit and I said by hand. That is the same thing.

Yes the final loading of both the inner and outer bearing is using the spindle nut, but Michael isn't that far yet. There is apparently something wrong with the fit between the spindle and the inner race, and he has to get that resolved before he can seat the bearing assembly.

Terry-----


I agree. However, I thought he was probably referring to seating the outer races. I see from his follow-up post that he's talking about the inner races. As I mentioned previously, he's got some sort of problem here.

[Michael L.]

Re: Front Caliper mounting bracket for 69

OK so I checked with my caliper and got 1.375 for both the ID of the bearing and the spindle. Although I can't see or feel anything there must be some roughness that is keeping it from slipping on. I'm going to take some emery cloth to it and see what that does.

[Michael L.]

Re: Front Caliper mounting bracket for 69

Terry and Michael------


The INNER bearing races are a slip fit on the spindle and are pulled into place by the spindle nut. That's why the instructions are to tighten the spindle nut to a specified torque, then back-off the nut. This sets the bearings. However, the OUTER races should never be seated by using the spindle nut and bearing assembly. The OUTER races need to be driven into the hub using an appropriate bearing race driver. They can also be installed with a press but it's not absolutely necessary.

Joe- as you can see in the pic I posted the bearing does go on a fair amount it just won't go on all the way. Where it is in the pic it just falls to easily. I started to pull it on with the spindle nut but quit because I got nervous. In your post above you mention that the inner race does need to be pulled in with the nut. So even though guys say it is a "slip" fit I shouldn't expect it to go to the hilt with my fingers, correct? Part of my difficulty with using the nut to pull it on is that the spindle isn't long enough for me to catch the threads, but now I'm thinking that's because the outer race also isn't seated. Would you recommend getting the outer races seated in a press and then try using the spindle nut again to draw the inner race in, especially since I know now that the measurements for both spindle and race are both 1.375?

[Joe L.]

Re: Front Caliper mounting bracket for 69

Joe- as you can see in the pic I posted the bearing does go on a fair amount it just won't go on all the way. Where it is in the pic it just falls to easily. I started to pull it on with the spindle nut but quit because I got nervous. In your post above you mention that the inner race does need to be pulled in with the nut. So even though guys say it is a "slip" fit I shouldn't expect it to go to the hilt with my fingers, correct? Part of my difficulty with using the nut to pull it on is that the spindle isn't long enough for me to catch the threads, but now I'm thinking that's because the outer race also isn't seated. Would you recommend getting the outer races seated in a press and then try using the spindle nut again to draw the inner race in, especially since I know now that the measurements for both spindle and race are both 1.375

Michael------


You should be able to install the inner bearing all the way onto the spindle easily by hand. If you can't, something is wrong.

As far as the outer races go, you want to be sure they are fully seated but that's not really related to installing the above.

[Michael L.]

Re: Front Caliper mounting bracket for 69

Ok Joe. I will hit it with emery cloth like I said and see how that works.

[Joe L.]

Re: Front Caliper mounting bracket for 69

Ok Joe. I will hit it with emery cloth like I said and see how that works.

Michael-------


Are these new bearings that you're installing? If so, why don't you try installing the old bearings that you removed. If they install without problem, then you know the problem is with the new bearings. If they don't, then you know the problem is caused by some damage to the spindle.

If the problem is with the new bearings I would not attempt to correct it with emery cloth. I'd opt for another set of high quality bearings.

[Richard M.]

Re: Front Caliper mounting bracket for 69

Coming in late, and I am not very proficient with the 1969 Model Year steering and brake idiosyncrasies, but thanks to others here I have learned much, in particular from the C3 gurus like Terry and Joe. This when discovering late(1978)C3 spindle/arm/steering/brake parts on a recent 1967 restoration. I had to acquire all correctly configured 1967 pieces to replace them. This is why I had to research the later C3 parts as those(1978+) parts were incorrectly installed on it.

I'm a bit confused why you have a 1" gap between the spindle and the caliper bracket. All I can think of is that you do not have the steering arm positioned between them which is about a 1" thickness. Either that or you may have a mixture of caliper brackets and steering arms, i.e. the wrong steering arms. There were differences but unsure if there was a thickness difference. It may help if you could post pictures/casting numbers of your caliper brackets and steering arms. IIRC, the spindle has no casting number so one has to identify it by dimensions(spindle diameter) checks.

As far as your bearing issue, I'd also bet there is a tiny bur on the spindle that is preventing a slip fit. You may be able to feel it with your fingers. However, your picture shows the Seal and Bearing standalone. The bearing "race" must be driven(with the proper driver, into the rotor hub and properly seated, then the greased bearing, then the seal must be installed with it's backside face flush against the rotor hub. Quite often, if there is a slight burr on the spindle, the installation "force" when putting the rotor/inner bearing assembly on to the spindle will push it past slight flaws in the spindle, but it's best that you've tested the bearing onto the spindle standalone for the proper slip fit.

This post , written by Joe some time ago was my bible for parts variances on the C2 & C3 designs.....(thanks again Joe, you saved me then. ) I did a copy/paste here for easier reference...

There were actually FOUR different front spindles over the 63-82 period. First, there was the 63-64, GM #3828580. Incidentally, this spindle was also a SERVICE spindle for 59-64 full size passenger cars. This spindle used the "small" spindle shaft and bearings and was designed for use with 7/16" spindle-to-steering arm attaching bolts. It was designed for use with drum brakes.

Second was the GM #3864023 used for 1965-67. It also used the "small" spindle shaft and bearings and was designed for the 7/16" spindle-to-steering arm attaching bolts. It was, of course, slightly redesigned to be compatible with disc brakes.

Third was the GM #3924384 used for 1968 ONLY. It used the "small" spindle shaft and bearings like 63-67 BUT was designed for use with 1/2" spindle-to-steering arm attaching bolts.

Fourth and last was the 69-82, GM #3953416. It used the "large" spindle shaft and bearings with the 1/2" spindle-to-steering arm attaching bolts.

All of the above can be installed on any 63-82. Of course, the 63-64 spindle cannot be used on later applications and vice-versa without also changing the braking system. If, for example, a 63-64 were converted to the 1965+ disc brake system, the 65-67 spindle would be a necessary and direct retrofit. Other year model range spindles could also be interchanged providing that other parts were changed, too. Most notable of these are the steering arms and front hubs.

While the 69-82 spindles can be installed on 65-67 Corvettes (and, 63-64 if the braking system is also changed), I believe there is a slight difference in the spindle shaft position relative to the ball joint bosses on 63-67 spindles versus 68-82 spindles. I believe this was part of the slight change in suspension configuration (lowering) that occurred between the C2 and C3 era. For the rear suspension, the corollary change was effected by revising the strut rod mounting bracket.

Just how much of a problem this would be on a 63-67, I don't know. The 69-82 spindle is definitely the strongest and best of the various spindles. If the 69-82 spindle is used on a 63-67, then the 69-82 steering arms MUST also be used since it is unsafe to "bore out" the 63-67 steering arms to accommodate the 1/2" bolts. The strongest of the steering arms, by far, were the 78-82 arms. However, most, if not all, PRODUCTION versions of these arms lack the holes for standard ratio steering. SERVICE versions after about 1978 have both holes in each arm, though. The 78-82 arms can be identified by the forging numbers 465071 and 465072. If one is able to bend these arms, one is very likely to die while doing it.

The 69-82 spindles can be directly retrofitted to a 1968 if the front hubs and bearings are also changed.

ALL of the four front spindles used over the 63-82 period are discontinued from GM.
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These were the 1978+ pieces. I had to locate all 1967 parts.
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These are the correctly configured items, but will show the process I use to install the bearing races into the rotor hubs using a driver kit. When installed on the spindle, as Joe discussed, the first application of spindle nut torque is to ensure a "final" proper seating of the bearing-races, then a slight back-off of the nut to the proper bearing "freeplay" and cotter pin install. Also, keep in mind to ensure that your rotor & hub assembly is measured for maximum "overall runout". This is discussed in the CSM and here in the archives.
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