How is the water drained from the block on a 327 engine?
327 1965 drain block
Collapse
X
-
Re: 327 1965 drain block
Robert, There is a 1/4" pipe plug on each side of the block that allows complete draining of all coolant. The plugs are located approx midway on the block sides and about the level of the bottom of the freeze plugs.
This in addition to the radiator drain will empty the system.- Top
-
- Top
Comment
-
Re: 327 1965 drain block
I removed the drain plug in my '67 327 last fall, and I can safely say that it was the most difficult drain plug that I ever encountered. As stated previously, use only a 6-point socket. I did not use WD-40, but may help after a couple days soak. I used a 1/2" drive flex handle with a piece of 1 ft. long pipe to increase leverage. Attacked the bolts from the top after removing shielding and exhaust manifolds (I was prepping the engine for a head swap anyway). With all of the above giving me a clear shot I had to lean all my weight into the wrench handle before they slowly gave way. These are iron plugs and at that the hex was pretty chewed up by the time I was done with them. Makes you wonder why they were installed as tight as they were.
Phil- Top
Comment
-
Re: 327 1965 drain block
I suggest you use CRC Freeze-Off on the drain plugs. It will slightly shrink the plug and may help loosen it.
It's messy and smelly, so use a big old rag or towel nearby when you spray it all around the plug. Use eye protection as well.
I have used this product many times with great results.- Top
Comment
-
Re: 327 1965 drain block
One more thing, it is common for the "crud" inside the block to be so thick that nothing comes out when the plug is removed. If so take a screwdriver to punch through and the coolant will start to flow. Good luck, Don H.- Top
Comment
-
Re: 327 1965 drain block
I removed the drain plug in my '67 327 last fall, and I can safely say that it was the most difficult drain plug that I ever encountered. As stated previously, use only a 6-point socket. I did not use WD-40, but may help after a couple days soak. I used a 1/2" drive flex handle with a piece of 1 ft. long pipe to increase leverage. Attacked the bolts from the top after removing shielding and exhaust manifolds (I was prepping the engine for a head swap anyway). With all of the above giving me a clear shot I had to lean all my weight into the wrench handle before they slowly gave way. These are iron plugs and at that the hex was pretty chewed up by the time I was done with them. Makes you wonder why they were installed as tight as they were.
Phil
Phil-------
It's not that they were originally installed with high torque, it's the corrosion that occurs over the years. If someone had tried to remove them when the car was new, it would have been easy. 50 years later, not so easy.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
Comment
Comment