K66 T.I. possible failure
My L72 with K66 T.I. would not start today, even with a small shot of starting fluid. In recent months it has become more and more difficult to start when cold, but will start quickly when warm. When cold I have flooded it a couple of times recently. I'm starting to suspect that it may be spark related, and not a lack of fuel. The TI amp has the original guts, but I have a spare case which has M&H guts in it. What is the most common failure mode of the original TI units? All of a sudden no spark?? or does the spark gradually get weaker or intermittent? After reading some threads on the subject I want to proceed with caution, as I don't want to blow out the new unit by trouble shooting improperly. What cautions would you suggest? Is there a good troubleshooting procedure that you would suggest? Thanks in advance.
-
-
Re: K66 T.I. possible failure
My 64 FI with K66 had a similar problem but I live in Houston the mine was tied to humidity as well temp. I put up with the problem for more years than I want to admit. I sent my K66 unit and harness to a specialist, he found an intermittent short in the harness but the K66 tested good. Installed a new cable but for two plus years the same B/S. I finally removed the unit and looked at the original (type) board only to find one of the prongs was loose!! A new modern day board and I have not had a single issue since, except my car wants a fully charged battery. I to have go to a shot of starter fluid if my sets for more than a week. -
Re: K66 T.I. possible failure
Hi Glen,
Check out this T.I. Specialty web page for troubleshooting info:
By the way, I think the starting fluid may be ill advised. I've seen advice on here about putting a little gas in the carb bowl if the car sits over a week or so to get an instant start.
JoeComment
-
Re: K66 T.I. possible failure
Glen, Dave Fiedler's website has some excellent diagnostic guides. http://www.tispecialty.com/
He has a diagnostic flow chart here...
I'd first use a inline spark tester to verify a true ignition problem. Since you're getting lots of fuel it seems likely a ignition issue.
You could also use a timing light. Note that original circuit boards are prone to fail if more than one plug wire is removed to check spark(the old-school way). If you had a bad plug(s) or wire(s) that may could cause a TI AMP failure. This recently happened to me.
You could also have a bad or intermittent coil, but those typically fail hot, not cold. You can test it statically with a ohmmeter, across +/-(low ohms, then the coil output to each +/-(high ohms). Disconnect all leads to the coil for this test.
To test the distributor pickup coil with it in the engine, you could connect a ohmmeter to the 2 terminal plug and have someone crank the engine. You should get 500-700 ohms (on-off-on) as it's turning. Disconnect the IGN power wire to the TI harness if you do this.
RichComment
-
Re: K66 T.I. possible failure
I would start using a ohm meter and verifying the ground path for the entire system. This involves from the amp to the front core support to the frame and battery.Comment
-
Re: K66 T.I. possible failure
One thing I forgot to mention. I to was getting plenty of gas only to find the my anti siphon check valve FAILED. I now have a solenoid value down stream of the anti siphon valve. Luckily I did not damage the engine, probably because it would hardly ever start during this time. HughComment
-
Re: K66 T.I. possible failure
When I get a little free time I will troubleshoot the system properly using the TI chart and your suggestions, and post the results. Thanks Guys!Comment
-
Re: K66 T.I. possible failure
Hello,
I had a similar TI problem and after changing the amp board and replacing the wiring harness Dave F. steered me in the direction of checking the voltage from my starter solenoid while in the "start" position. I was able to quickly determine it as the problem by merely running a 12 volt jumper wire directly to the coil terminal when starting. it would always start immediately with the jumper in place. I took apart the (aftermarket) starter solenoid and the contacts inside were deteriorated and did not allow the proper voltage to the coil. Once I replaced the solenoid with a correct Delco unit my problem was solved. I will always be grateful to Dave for his help as most of us are intimidated by the TI system.
Dave's advice saved me hours of frustration!
ChuckComment
-
Re: K66 T.I. possible failure
Chuck, thanks for the tip. About a year ago I replaced an original Delco starter solenoid because when the starter became hot the solenoid would not energize, no click, no noise, just like having a dead battery. When it cooled down it would operate normally. After being stranded several times I found out what the problem was and purchased an aftermarket solenoid that has a slightly larger case and more windings. This made it more heat resistant than the original unit. Since then I have not had the heat problem. The starter is a 7365 which has a heat shield and the original BB cast iron exhaust manifolds are being used. Do you remember what the voltage before you ran the jumper wire?
Another thing that may be causing trouble is the TI coil, that has been on the vehicle since I purchase it, is a 207, which I believe is a SB TI coil. Is it possible that the different coil could be a problem?Comment
-
Re: K66 T.I. possible failure
Hello Glenn,
I may have that voltage reading written down and I will check my files when I go to my work shop. You are experiencing EXACTLY the same intermittent problem I had.
Try this for now. Cut a 24" length of good quality wire of the approximate gauge of the distributor wiring and attach alligator clips to both ends.
the next time your car will not start do NOT use the starter fluid,turn the key to off and hook one end of that jumper wire to the red wire on the back of your alternator (12 volts) and the other end of the jumper to the coil on the side where the wire comes up from your starter. Try starting the car and if it fires you know the problem is in the solenoid as you will have duplicated the 12 volt feed to the coil during the brief time the solenoid is activated. I also found that my coil wire under the ignition shielding was shorting out due to the center distributor cap coil wire rubbing against the bottom of the metal shielding cover. that is easy to determine as you will see slight evidence of discoloration on the inside of the cover above where the center coil wire lays. In regards to the "wrong coil" I would suggest you buy a correct replacement from Dave Fiedler. He will only sell you the best available replacement coil currently being offered. (not an inferior part available elsewhere but not worth the aggravation)
I am solely relaying personal information that worked for solving my particular problem and I am by no means proficient in TI matters. Try what I have suggested as I believe it will solve your problem. If not, call Dave and pay him for his consultation and advice. (he deserves to be compensated for sharing his unique knowledge and is a very honorable guy)
I hope this has helped you!
ChuckComment
-
Re: K66 T.I. possible failure
Glenn,
ADDED INFORMATION:
I bought a bicycle tire repair kit and used the small square adhesive rubber "patch" to insulate the bottom of my ignition shield cover it worked great and took less than a minute to attach.
ChuckComment
Comment