Solenoid failures
I have a 66 roadster with a 327 300 engine. I have replaced 2 starter solenoids in two years and the current one is failing. Do they make a heavy duty solenoid that will last?
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Re: Solenoid failures
Noel,
Solenoid failures are common but two in two years is out of the ordinary.
When you have it off I would advise to replace the starter drive and take a close look at the starter ring gear on the flywheel.
You have a problem somewhere else causing the solenoids to fail.
JR -
Re: Solenoid failures
Noel, what are the symptoms of the starter? are you hearing a click when you turn to starter? solenoid failures, twice in few years is out of the ordinary since most corvettes only get started a few times in the coarse of a week/month, I would suggest another manufacture like Standard ignition or Napa, some of the discount parts houses maybe using inferior parts.New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.Comment
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Re: Solenoid failures
Thanks for responding so fast. I've only had the 66 Vette for two years and just joined the NCRS yesterday. Anyway, I replaced the starter motor/solenoid shortly after purchasing the car as part of a general restoration. Then last summer the solenoid was replaced after repeated failures. Yesterday, the solenoid clicked when I turned the key and then silence. If I keep turning the key it eventually fires and starts up. The battery is new and the connections seem fine.Comment
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Re: Solenoid failures
Not sure of solenoid brand. I will have to check later today. What is the best quality component?Comment
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Re: Solenoid failures
Noel------
I prefer GM/Delco. However, Standard Motor Products is fine, too. It's even possible that, these days, the GM/Delco is the Standard Motor Products part in a GM/Delco box. Of course, it's also possible that the GM/Delco part is manufactured by Standard Motor Products but to a GM specification and is different (although not visually different).In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Solenoid failures
Noel,
I would double check the battery cables and battery cable ends for a clean tight connection.Comment
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Re: Solenoid failures
If you are getting a clicking noise, the solenoid is working but the contacts are most likely not providing continuity for current to get to the starter motor. Have you taken any of the failed solenoids apart to look at the contacts? Odds are that they are burnt and causing excessive resistance but you won't know until you have taken a look. Maybe someone else will have an idea on why some solenoids survive longer than others. Quality of parts perhaps?
SteveComment
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Re: Solenoid failures
Good idea. When I was younger I had several 283 Chevys with solenoid trouble. We used to take them apart and polish the contacts and put them back in. Seemed like it worked well. I'm 65 now so I guess I've been lazy and just changed out the solenoids when problems started. When I get this one out I'll break it down and see what the contacts look like. Thanks.Comment
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Re: Solenoid failures
Noel,
A similar problem years ago perplexed me until a close inspection of the wire terminal connections to the solenoid revealed that a number of individual copper strands in one of the wires had broken where the wire terminates at the 'eye' connector; likely broken by being removed and reinstalled on the solenoid a number of times over the years, and thereby preventing full voltage from consistently reaching the solenoid. I cut back one-half inch or so into the section of the wire with unbroken copper strands and attached a new terminal. That solved my problem.
Best of luck with your situation.
LarryComment
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Re: Solenoid failures
Thanks everyone. I've been too busy this week to work on the problem. However, I'll utilize all of the ideas mentioned in the posts when I get a chance to investigate. This is my first experience with the NCRS forum and I am impressed with the helpfulness and knowledge from the membership. Thanks again.
Noel
66 VetteComment
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Re: Solenoid failures
Noel,
Since you're new to the DB, tell us more about your '66. Early, mid, or late build date? Restored, unrestored? Mostly original parts? Etc. I'm always looking for more examples of original frame stencils to add to my '66 frame stencil database. Is your frame stencil readable?
Thanks,
Gary Beaupre
NCRS # 28818Comment
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Re: Solenoid failures
Gary,
Thanks for your interest. From the VIN the production number is S119236. It is mostly restored with original parts. However, the 327 engine is not original - not sure where it came from. Body was originally Yellow (984). Repainted Ralley Red - nice job. Interior black (402) - all redone.
The paint and interior were done by previous owner - looks pretty good. I've been mainly completing mechanical restoration and making it reliable to drive during nice weather. Examples are new Dewitt radiator and expansion tank, starter motor, valve seals to eliminate smoking...
Sorry - I don't know what a frame stencil is??
NoelComment
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Re: Solenoid failures
Noel------
The frame stencil is a part number that will be stenciled on the side rails of the frame. In your case it will be a 7 digit number, often followed by a dash and 2 more numbers. The stencil-applied numbers will be about 1-1/2-2", or so, in size and usually in white paint. If the frame was ever undercoated or repainted the stencil numbers will likely be obliterated. Also, time and weather may have obliterated or partially obliterated them.
Also, did you ever determine what brand/part number solenoids have been installed?In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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