Horn Does Not Work After Dropping Steering Column to Remove Cluster - NCRS Discussion Boards

Horn Does Not Work After Dropping Steering Column to Remove Cluster

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  • Paul S.
    Expired
    • April 6, 2010
    • 148

    Horn Does Not Work After Dropping Steering Column to Remove Cluster

    I reinstalled the gauge cluster in my 67 (AC, power glide, 327, regular steering column) over the weekend, after having it worked on by Corvette Specialties. When removing and reinstalling the cluster, I disconnected the steering column from the rag joint by removing the star headed bolt in the clamp and pulled the column back from the dash so that it would drop out of the way. Didn't pull the column completely out of the car. After I got the cluster out, I put the steering column back in the rag joint clamp and reinserted the three mounting bolts under the dash so the column wasnt hanging unsupported while waiting since March for the cluster to come back from Corvette Specialties.

    So now it's been so long, that may be I forgot something. But it seems to me that before even with the steering wheel off and the horn contact ring not yet installed, shouldn't the horn sound when I push the plunger down (I guess that's the horn switch), or am I imagining the horn works that way? Seems like it did. But now, the horn does not sound. Haven't tried it yet with the steering wheel reinstalled (by the way, I didn't pull the hub, just unscrewed the 6 screws that holds the steering wheel on and the 3 screws that hold the horn contact ring).

    If the horn should sound but mine isn't, my next question is figuring out the problem and fixing it.

    I looked up horn trouble at page 12-15 of the 1963 Corvette Shop manual and the steps are clear enough except for one minor detail: I have no idea where to look under the hood for the horn relay nor an idea of what the horn relay looks like. So that's my other question--where would the horn relay be on a 67 with AC, power glide and 327?

    Lastly any suggestions on fixing it once I figure out where my problem is, and if it is in fact wiring what's the way of fixing it--I'm betting something may have gotten pinched/shorted in the column when pulling it out, moving it up and down, etc...while pulling and reinstalling the gauge cluster. And oh yes, horn worked fine before, and the battery was disconnected the entire time. First thing I did in fact before taking the driver's seat out, removing the steering wheel and unbolting the steering column.

    On the bright side, the restored cluster looks great, I now know where each cluster bulb goes by heart, and my hands will heal from the 1,000 little nicks and scraps in no time. Thanks all, for the help.
  • Paul S.
    Expired
    • April 6, 2010
    • 148

    #2
    Re: Horn Does Not Work After Dropping Steering Column to Remove Cluster

    Ok, I believe I see the horn relay--see attached picture. How does the cover come off (don't want to break it, and it's loosely mounted to the radiator core support, wiggles side to side when I tried to pry the cover off)
    Attached Files

    Comment

    • Paul S.
      Expired
      • April 6, 2010
      • 148

      #3
      Re: Horn Does Not Work After Dropping Steering Column to Remove Cluster

      OK, new update. Horn and relay are not the problem, but now I have a new problem which is while testing out the horn button using a metal pick, the horn contact plunger is now stuck in the hub. What kind of steering wheel puller can I use to pull the hub so I can get to the spring and fix or replace?

      Comment

      • Frank D.
        Expired
        • December 27, 2007
        • 2703

        #4
        Re: Horn Does Not Work After Dropping Steering Column to Remove Cluster

        You can borrow a puller from Autozone or buy a cheapie from Harbor Freight -- nothing exotic and about $13..
        Maybe you can take a scratch awl and finagle that plunger to re-extend itself.

        Anyway - wen you get THAT issue straightened out, and, if your horn still doesn't work....take a jumper wire and jumper from one side of the rag joint to the other side, spanning the fabric of the rag joint and making a metal-to-metal ground contact -- then try your horn again...

        Comment

        • Paul S.
          Expired
          • April 6, 2010
          • 148

          #5
          Re: Horn Does Not Work After Dropping Steering Column to Remove Cluster

          Thanks Frank. I'm heading off to Auto Zone after work, to borrow a puller. Yes, I wish I could finagle the plunger to re-extend itself (tried exactly that) but no joy. The horn should be fine, as I can touch the plunger with a pick, and ground by touching the hub with the back end of the pick, and the horn works. Wish I had remembered how the horn worked before I jammed up the plunger--story of my life. I'm leaving breathing proof of Murphy's law.

          Comment

          • Frank D.
            Expired
            • December 27, 2007
            • 2703

            #6
            Re: Horn Does Not Work After Dropping Steering Column to Remove Cluster

            One more thought...that plunger rides along the top of the steering column connection to make the horn contact....maybe turning the steering wheel slightly left/right could move it enough to line it up to get it to re-extend. Admittedly -- a long shot...

            The big nut on the steering wheel should be torqued to about 25 ft-lbs IIRC on reassembly..

            Comment

            • Stephen L.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • May 31, 1984
              • 3148

              #7
              Re: Horn Does Not Work After Dropping Steering Column to Remove Cluster

              The horn contact (switch) is NOT the plunger that you have been messing with. The plunger rides on a slip ring to allow the horn button/steering wheel and contact to rotate. The contact is a "wafer" metal part that is directly under the horn button which snaps into it. This "wafer" has 3 mounting holes and screws to the steering wheel collar.
              When the horn button is depressed the "wafer" sections are pressed together completing the contact circuit signal. That signal is then "transmitted" thru the plunger to the brass slip ring which is connected to a wire going to the horn relay. This circuit completes the ground circuit for the horn relay. Also part of this circuit is the rag joint which completes the circuit back to the ground system thru the steering box etc. If the rag joint is open then the steering shaft (inside the column) has no adequate path to ground and the circuit remains open even tho the horn button is depressed.
              If you want to test the horn circuit with the wafer removed (and the rag joint etc. installed) just use a jumper wire from the center steering shaft to the plunger and the horn should work. What you did with metal pick was complete the circuit by touching the surrounding metal to the "plunger".

              I'm unable to post a photo of the parts involved. Will submit a photo on an additional reply....
              Attached Files

              Comment

              • Donald O.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • May 31, 1990
                • 1580

                #8
                Re: Horn Does Not Work After Dropping Steering Column to Remove Cluster

                Paul,
                I went through this exact same problem after I rebuilt my 67 standard column this past winter. Everything worked before the rebuild but the horn didn't work after
                My problem was the same plunger issue as yours. I was able to get a plunger rebuild kit from Paragon, it was a new plunger and spring. BUT, their instructions included saying that the plunger must be cut down to 0.75". WTF!
                Anyway, I took the cancelling cam apart, removed the spring which was very thin wire, less than a third of the replacement. Removed the plunger, it had to be pressed out with a #1 phillips screw driver, ran it around in a scotch brite pad to remove any corrosion, and ten reinstalled the plunger. Replace the spring with the new one in the kit, and reassembled the cancelling cam. Checked it all with my DVOM meter and all was good.

                IIRC the rebuild kit was maybe $5....plus shipping

                Hope this helps

                Don
                The light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off.

                Comment

                • Paul S.
                  Expired
                  • April 6, 2010
                  • 148

                  #9
                  Re: Horn Does Not Work After Dropping Steering Column to Remove Cluster

                  I was able to salvage my existing cancelling cam - I had to open it up, prying back the metal tabs, that hold the top and bottom together, to get the plunger out. Then it was a matter of bending the tabs back down and then reinstalling everything.

                  You're right on the parts cost plus there's shipping which makes the $8 more like $20. And delay so I figured nothing to lose by opening up the cancelling cam which other than having the plunger stuck, was in good shape.

                  Tried the jumper wire (as Stephen suggested) and horn works. So I should be ok. Learned a lot and even pulling the hub was not hard at all. The loaner steering wheel puller worked well. Worst part is these days the employees at the store, know less than I. I had to point to a picture of the puller on a chart he had. That's in part why I asked above what puller will I need.

                  With some luck I'll do some clean up before putting the driver seat and steering wheel back in, and be driving around Saturday to check out my nicely restored cluster.

                  Comment

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