63/64 Ignition Switch Testing

[Larry M.]

I just bought a 1116635 switch used (possibly NOS without the box) from Norm Werner. He said that at one time he bought a lot of NOS stuff w/o boxes and couldn't be sure if this switch was part of that. But I don't see any marks indicating prior installation. In any case, I'm trying to continuity test the switch to see if it is good and I'm getting confused. For example:

1. In LOCK or OFF position the D-R(Sol)A and Acc terminals are continuous.
2. In ACC position the two above are continuous with Bat.
3. In the ON position Bat is continuous to D-R(Sol), Acc, and Ign.
4. START position appears to act like ON

A novice guess is that the D-R(Sol) should not be continuous to anything until you turn to START. Therefore it "appears" that D-R(Sol) is shorted to Acc internally and the switch is toast. Also, I don't find the use of the GRD (ground) terminal.

I'd wish the switch to be good because it is rare. Can someone help me on this?

[Larry M.]

Re: 63/64 Ignition Switch Testing

Larry:

Years ago there was an article in the RESTORER abut how to disassemble an ignition switch, test it, and reassemble with some new pieces. I believe it was from a 61-62 car. Bill Clupper wrote it.

You could check for this article or ask Vinnie about it. It may help you.

Larry

[Richard M.]

Re: 63/64 Ignition Switch Testing

Larry, it appears that switch is broken, likely a internal contact broken away and causing those shorts. Only thing to do is open it up to attempt repair.

The GND terminal is not used for Corvette applications. It is likely a carryover terminal for its use in other models.

Rich

[Larry M.]

Re: 63/64 Ignition Switch Testing

Norm has one more used switch so he is replacing it. Thanks for your input.

Researching elsewhere I learned that the ground terminal will "ground" to the switch housing in the START position. I tested this and it is correct. This causes warning lights to come on for cars with idiot lights and will ground the temp guage on some others during the starting cycle, all ceasing when you release the key.

[Larry M.]

Re: 63/64 Ignition Switch Testing

Received replacement switch....tested properly including the unused ground. The prior switch was definitely shorted.

[Erv M.]

Re: 63/64 Ignition Switch Testing

I know this is an old thread but I have been searching how to test a 66 ignition switch as I believe mine has gone south.

Would someone be kind enough to assist me in this endeavor?

[Richard M.]

Re: 63/64 Ignition Switch Testing

I know this is an old thread but I have been searching how to test a 66 ignition switch as I believe mine has gone south.

Would someone be kind enough to assist me in this endeavor?

Erv, I can help you.

Go to this Link and download the document at the bottom of the post.

Go to page 26 of the document you will see a diagram of the 1966 Ignition switch terminals.

If the switch is installed....(Set brake and Trans in Neutral)

Using a Voltmeter, check for 12v at the Pink when in RUN, and also when in START. Check for 12v on Purple when in START.

If the switch is removed, use a Ohmmeter(or Testlight). Connect the Testlight alligator clip wire to RED terminal(12V) and use the probe on the testlight at the points outlined above under the same switch positions. The Testlight should illuminate at those same testpoints as above.

Note that BROWN is Accesory mode. This will be 12v at RUN or ACC, but not in START.

Rich

[Erv M.]

Re: 63/64 Ignition Switch Testing

Thank you I will put a meter to it tomorrow.

I ask about the ignition as I am bench testing my rebuilt cluster and wiring harness. I have the paper, thank you for your contribution.

On the bottom of page 3 it denotes ALL lights illuminate when you have the cluster ground and 12V to the "Bat-Power" on the fuse block. When I performed this test all were illuminated except:

Turn signals left & right
Brake warning
Light warning
High beam

Is this the norm or do I have a problem?

[Richard M.]

Re: 63/64 Ignition Switch Testing

Thank you I will put a meter to it tomorrow.

I ask about the ignition as I am bench testing my rebuilt cluster and wiring harness. I have the paper, thank you for your contribution.

On the bottom of page 3 it denotes ALL lights illuminate when you have the cluster ground and 12V to the "Bat-Power" on the fuse block. When I performed this test all were illuminated except:

Turn signals left & right
Brake warning
Light warning
High beam

Is this the norm or do I have a problem?

Erv,

I think the wording on page 3 may be confusing. What you are seeing is expected. I think the photo of all lamps illuminated on page 3 is when all switch functions are activated. When you first power up the cluster on the bench nothing will be illuminated until the appropriate switches, or the pins on their wiring is activated with either a 12v power jumper or grounded where applicable. As you proceed further into the document it explains this. I'll send a note to Dave and see if he will confirm that.

Rich

[Erv M.]

Re: 63/64 Ignition Switch Testing

Just finished testing the switch with 12v to the BAT. results are:

Key Off:
SOL No Current
ACC No current
GRD N/A
IGN No current

Key in RUN position
SOL No current
ACC Yes current
GRD N/A
IGN Yes current

Key Turned far right to start and held
SOL Yes current
ACC No current
GRD N/A
IGN Yes current

With the above testing I believe the switch is good, anyone to confirm my findings

So I am back to why I can not get the Light warning to work.

[Richard M.]

Re: 63/64 Ignition Switch Testing

Just finished testing the switch with 12v to the BAT. results are:

Key Off:
SOL No Current
ACC No current
GRD N/A
IGN No current

Key in RUN position
SOL No current
ACC Yes current
GRD N/A
IGN Yes current

Key Turned far right to start and held
SOL Yes current
ACC No current
GRD N/A
IGN Yes current

With the above testing I believe the switch is good, anyone to confirm my findings

So I am back to why I can not get the Light warning to work.

Erv, I sent a note to Dave Zuberer about the page 3 document confusion.

Yes, your tests confirm the IGN switch is good.

In order for the LIGHTS lamp to illuminate, you have to GND the pin at the proper bulkhead connector for the telltale switch activation. See page 8. in the document. This is a Gray/Dk Blue/Blk wire. This must be done with the Headlamp switch ON(2nd detent). Power to the LIGHTS lamp is the Lt Blue wire which is fed from the Headlight switch. This is also the feed to the Dimmer switch to operate either HI or LO beams.

Rich

[Erv M.]

Re: 63/64 Ignition Switch Testing

Erv, I sent a note to Dave Zuberer about the page 3 document confusion.

Yes, your tests confirm the IGN switch is good.

In order for the LIGHTS lamp to illuminate, you have to GND the pin at the proper bulkhead connector for the telltale switch activation. See page 8. in the document. This is a Gray/Dk Blue/Blk wire. This must be done with the Headlamp switch ON(2nd detent). Power to the LIGHTS lamp is the Lt Blue wire which is fed from the Headlight switch. This is also the feed to the Dimmer switch to operate either HI or LO beams.

Rich

Afetr testing the socket, which I had a good ground and 12v source I removed the LED BA9S bulb and placed a china 257 bulb in and whamo it works.

Last light for me to test is the Brake light on page 19. I removed the LED and replaced it with a 257. Socket has NO power or ground with ignition in the OFF or RUN position. Bulb only lights when you hold the ignition to the start position.

Is this correct?

[Richard M.]

Re: 63/64 Ignition Switch Testing

Afetr testing the socket, which I had a good ground and 12v source I removed the LED BA9S bulb and placed a china 257 bulb in and whamo it works.

Last light for me to test is the Brake light on page 19. I removed the LED and replaced it with a 257. Socket has NO power or ground with ignition in the OFF or RUN position. Bulb only lights when you hold the ignition to the start position.

Is this correct?

Erv. Something strange there. Park Brake lamp should work in RUN. Ground applied to TAN should light it.

12v is fed to it from IGN=ON via Pink wire. This same Pink circuit(fused) powers FUEL/TEMP gauges, BU lamps, Fuel Sender.

Unless your IGN switch is acting up? When IGN in RUN, jumper from RED to PINK at the IGN switch, Tan = Ground. what happens?

Rich

[Erv M.]

Re: 63/64 Ignition Switch Testing

Erv. Something strange there. Park Brake lamp should work in RUN. Ground applied to TAN should light it.

12v is fed to it from IGN=ON via Pink wire. This same Pink circuit(fused) powers FUEL/TEMP gauges, BU lamps, Fuel Sender.

Unless your IGN switch is acting up? When IGN in RUN, jumper from RED to PINK at the IGN switch, Tan = Ground. what happens?

Rich

I placed a jumper from RED to PINK at the ignition with the Tan = Ground. In the RUN position the light was off. In the OFF position the light was on. In the START position the light was on.

Thanks for helping with this. I can turn a wrench but electrical always gets the best of me.

Erv

[Richard M.]

Re: 63/64 Ignition Switch Testing

I placed a jumper from RED to PINK at the ignition with the Tan = Ground. In the RUN position the light was off. In the OFF position the light was on. In the START position the light was on.

Thanks for helping with this. I can turn a wrench but electrical always gets the best of me.

Erv

Erv, This is getting even more strange...

Please remove IGN switch from harness and do the same test at the harness plug with jumpers. With Red=Pink, Tan=Gnd. Should light up.

It seems you IGN switch is intermittent. May want to repeat that IGN switch bench test again, several times.

PS my laptop just died so forgive spelling errors on my phone...