New Battery Installation

[Stuart F.]

It has been a number of years since I changed out the battery in my 63 L-76. I know I must move the recovery tank out of the way, but is it adequate to just disconnect the "T" from the heater hose to move it far enough? I really don't want to disconnect the heater hose from the heater core nipple as those spring clamps don't work all that well to make a leak proof re-connection. Last time I did that I had to use a worm clamp to get it to seal, then after a period of time, I opened the worm clamp to remove it and slid the spring clamp back up the hose into position over the nipple.

Thanks

Stu Fox

[Dan H.]

Re: New Battery Installation

Stu, I made with just moving the tank, no disconnect of hoses.

Dan

[Paul H.]

Re: New Battery Installation

I have always just loosened the clamp around the recovery tank to pull the tank back. Then I tie the tank out of the way. Never disconnected any hoses. Have fun!!!

[Michael J.]

Re: New Battery Installation

I have always just loosened the clamp around the recovery tank to pull the tank back. Then I tie the tank out of the way. Never disconnected any hoses. Have fun!!!

+1, that is what I have always done.

[Stuart F.]

Re: New Battery Installation

Thanks for the advice fellows. I'll approach it that way. I know I'd certainly prefer not breaking any connections as it always seems to invite leaks. I will probably drain the cooling system anyway as it is about time to change coolant again. Another project might be in order for me as well and that is changing plugs. The last time was in the early 2000's. Hope they aren't rusted into the heads. Probably do the RH side from under the car this time as I'll have to wrestle with that darn shield. It's a bear on 63's, as I recall.

Stu Fox

[Carmen R.]

Re: New Battery Installation

The plugs should come out easy, because I'm sure you applied a light coating of anti seize on the threads. Right?

Check your supply of band aids before removing the RH side ignition shielding.

I feel your pain.

[Bob R.]

Re: New Battery Installation

With the battery out you should be able to remove the right side shield and change the plugs with no issues and I agree with you if you are taking the battery out might as well take care of any maintenance items while there is access to them.

[Stuart F.]

Re: New Battery Installation

Thanks for the moral support and good advice.

Stu Fox

[Richard M.]

Re: New Battery Installation

Stu, Remember to check the battery shield fit before getting the new battery. Many new batteries have built in plastic handle straps and the battery has plastic protrusions at each end to hold the handle strap. If they stick out too far the shield won't fit. You don't want to find out after you wrestle the new battery in there.

I've had to cut the protrusions on some types, particularly the C1 batteries as the top shield fits completely over the top edges of the battery.

Also, on some batteries the handles can be removed after installing it. The handle comes in handy to help installation. I save the handle so I can use it to remove the battery later if necessary. The lock tabs on the handle on many can be pushed in to allow removal. I wrap a plastic bag around the battery to prevent spills and remove it once it's in position.

Rich

[James W.]

Re: New Battery Installation

I replaced the battery in my '64 back in June. I did not disconnect any hose fittings and just loosened the expansion tank straps and had my son hold the tank back out of the way while I removed the old battery and installed the new one. The battery I installed was an AC Delco group 24 and had to use a Dremel tool to remove the battery carrying strap ears on each side of the battery before the top hold down/shield would fit properly. I also used a plastic bag when reinstalling the new battery as Rich mentioned.



James

[Philip A.]

Re: New Battery Installation

For clarity, are you loosening the tank straps from the inner fender and pulling the tank back toward the motor or loosening the straps and sliding the tank forward?

[James W.]

Re: New Battery Installation

For clarity, are you loosening the tank straps from the inner fender and pulling the tank back toward the motor or loosening the straps and sliding the tank forward?

Loosen the expansion tank straps and slide or move the tank forward towards the engine.

[Stuart F.]

Re: New Battery Installation

Rich,

I got another replacement battery from Restoration Battery. The last one I had (that I'm replacing) lasted over 3 years. I ran it dead once before when a diode failed in my alternator, it charged back up. This last time, however, I let it sit too long w/o maintaining the charge due to my health problems and I couldn't get it to come back. My son bought this one I guess because he still wants it to look correct as he will probably inherit it. Otherwise, I was planning to just get any correct spec battery that would fit just to get it on the road again. The last one I had was dated, but this one is not. I considered to jump start it with my Stanley unit, but I was advised that trying to start it without full voltage could risk wrecking my Pertronics II module (believe someone on the board posted that). During the car's layup period, I had one tire go flat as the stem succumbed to the rubbing from the hubcap and split open (even just sitting parked in my garage) - go figure.

Thanks all for the advice about just moving the tank w/o breaking a hose connection. I will do that.

Stu Fox

[Jeff S.]

Re: New Battery Installation

This is the method I use; removing hood latch helps prevent blood loss. Be sure to pad the RH exhaust manifold or it will scratch up the side of the expansion tank.

[Stuart F.]

Re: New Battery Installation

Jeff,

Are not the ring clamps for the tank removable on your year car? They are on my 63 and is why I never considered removing the hood latch before, I believe.

I doubt if I have any rope or cord around the garage, but I got lots of bungy cords. I'll see if I can make one of those work to tie the tank back. I take it that no one who uses this approach drains the cooling system. Won't some coolant leak past the cap or overflow hose? If I have to remove the hose to the radiator from the clips to the fender well, I'll probably have to pal nut them back in place as those holes are probably too large now. Sorry for my thinking out loud with my stilis in my hand (iPad).

Stu Fox