1960 Fan Shroud Fasteners

[Keith R.]

What are the correct fasteners for the three piece fan shroud? - in particular, the five screws which fasten the two lower shroud halves together and to the upper shroud in turn AND the four screws which fasten the shroud assembly to the frame. I have cad plated 8-32 X 3/8" clutch head screws for the lower shroud and 1/4"-20 X 15/16" recessed hex head bolts with integral tooth head washers. These have an "M" head mark within concentric circles.

[Pat H.]

Re: 1960 Fan Shroud Fasteners

Keith As far as I know from looking at several originals, the bolts that mount the shroud to the Rad support are Shouldered "e" bolts with a dimple in the center. The ones from the Corvette vendors are incorrect. The shoulder is too small and there is no dimple. As for 1960, the screws that hold the should together are small clutch heads, cad plated. The 1/4" x 20 bolts on 58-59 are "TR" s and according to what I've seen, very late 59 through 62 have have a recessed "G" with a smaller L in the center. These are know head marking, but they could possibly be the M you have

[Keith R.]

Re: 1960 Fan Shroud Fasteners

Thanks a lot Pat. That's what I thought regarding the lower shroud screws - the Corvette suppliers are selling recessed hex head screws instead of clutch head. I have five 1/4" -20 bolts with the "cent" head mark but I believe that these secure the dash instrument cluster to the dash.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1960 Fan Shroud Fasteners

Keith, I saw your other post regarding the side brackets. Glad the pics helped.

As a FYI, loosely test fit the shroud to the support and frame horns. It's a bear to get all 5/16" side bolts through the shroud, then radiator support then threaded into those side bracket threaded inserts. I usually have to open up the holes in the support and the fan shroud to help line things up.

Be very careful if you have to use any pry-tools to help line up at the side bracket bolts. Those threaded inserts can pop off easily. I've found using a 3/8 drive 1/2" flex socket and long extensions help when installing it all.

Those lower captive weldnuts in the shroud for the small machine screws are always trouble too. The lower flanges in the upper shroud never line up easily either. A little bending may be needed.

Also, those threaded 1/4-20 holes in the frame horns need to be nice and clean for ease of install too.

This is one of the worst designs of shrouding as if everything is not perfect, it's trouble. Don't tighten any fastener completely until all pieces are in place and lined up with finger tightness. Then tighten everything up.

Also, at some time you may want to add some extra sealing at the LARGE gap below the radiator to shroud(pics below). The factory, for some reason, left a huge gap there with no seal. I glue thin rubber sheeting to the gap to redirect lost air into the radiator/shroud.

[Keith R.]

Re: 1960 Fan Shroud Fasteners

Keith, I saw your other post regarding the side brackets. Glad the pics helped.

As a FYI, loosely test fit the shroud to the support and frame horns. It's a bear to get all 5/16" side bolts through the shroud, then radiator support then threaded into those side bracket threaded inserts. I usually have to open up the holes in the support and the fan shroud to help line things up.

Be very careful if you have to use any pry-tools to help line up at the side bracket bolts. Those threaded inserts can pop off easily. I've found using a 3/8 drive 1/2" flex socket and long extensions help when installing it all.

Those lower captive weldnuts in the shroud for the small machine screws are always trouble too. The lower flanges in the upper shroud never line up easily either. A little bending may be needed.

Also, those threaded 1/4-20 holes in the frame horns need to be nice and clean for ease of install too.

This is one of the worst designs of shrouding as if everything is not perfect, it's trouble. Don't tighten any fastener completely until all pieces are in place and lined up with finger tightness. Then tighten everything up.

Also, at some time you may want to add some extra sealing at the LARGE gap below the radiator to shroud(pics below). The factory, for some reason, left a huge gap there with no seal. I glue thin rubber sheeting to the gap to redirect lost air into the radiator/shroud.

Thanks for all the good advice Richard. I'm dropping the radiator in the support currently while the body is off the chassis. It sure would be nice if I could fit the three-piece shroud at this time but unfortunately, you can't drop the body with the shroud in place. It's going to be a booger I know and fitting it loosely is probably the key as the side radiator brackets; radiator and upper shroud all have to line up with the radiator support. Luckily, I am using the GM original shroud that came out of the car. Unfortunately, someone broke off the forward-most horns to mount the upper shroud to the frame so I'm going to have to try to fabricate them and weld them back on.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1960 Fan Shroud Fasteners

Thanks for all the good advice Richard. I'm dropping the radiator in the support currently while the body is off the chassis. It sure would be nice if I could fit the three-piece shroud at this time but unfortunately, you can't drop the body with the shroud in place. It's going to be a booger I know and fitting it loosely is probably the key as the side radiator brackets; radiator and upper shroud all have to line up with the radiator support. Luckily, I am using the GM original shroud that came out of the car. Unfortunately, someone broke off the forward-most horns to mount the upper shroud to the frame so I'm going to have to try to fabricate them and weld them back on.

Okay, you are in luck if the body is off as what I tell you here many do not know. It is VERY important to test fit the shroud and support and radiator AS you you shim the 4 forward floor body mounts and the front lower valence support shims/rubber mount at the carriage bolts. Make sure you test fit and adjust shims as necessary as the shroud fit to the frame is SOLELY determined by the body shimming. This all changed in 1961, thankfully.

On the last 2 59's and 60's I restored after PO body drop before I got to them, I had to remove all bumpers, brackets etc to completely re-shim the bodies to get the shrouds to fit properly. In one case, the body was 3/4" too high. The other was too low.

Rich