Fuel Injection rebuild - parts finish and plating 1959 900R

[John D.]

Re: Fuel Injection rebuild - parts finish and plating 1959 900R

Yes, sorry that’s what I mean by yellow cad... I spoke with John DeGregory and he’s skeptical the filister screws are original, but I see some sources on Jerry Bramlet’s site about yellow cad found in some parts: at least the enrichment diaphram levers and hold down washers anyway. Jerry has pics of an NOS air meter with a lot of bling on it actually.

As I mentioned Ian and I will repeat it here. Many years ago Frank Sciabica supplied with the info on the screws. So did Bill Krynen of Canada.
And also I have observed more FI's than I care to remember.
57 to '61 (leaving '62 out of this discussion as that's another story) all have cadmium plated fillister.
Typical '62 to '65 have mostly black fillisters except for the two 1/4-28 x 5/8" long fillisters. Those are cadmium.
Service replacement fuel injections have anything and everything.

ALL of the screws on your 58-59 unit are clear cadmium plated. Bolts and nuts too.
THe enrichment cover retainers: I see them cad and I see them dichromate.
Choke rod retainers. At the GM Training Center my instructor Called those Jesus Clips. They were black or dichromate. Black are pure ugly so I refuse to use them. Like the dichromate.
You cannot go by NOS FI parts as being correct as far as finishes go. Lots of bling is right.
My NOS '63 FI unit had zero dichromate parts or hardware on it. But most of the NOS castings I/we bought from Chevy were dipped in Dichromate. And we attempt to refinish those parts they don't come out very nice. Why? Poor quality castings.

[Richard M.]

Re: Fuel Injection rebuild - parts finish and plating 1959 900R

Rich. Who did the gorgeous cadmium plating for you? I am not concerned about how much the cad costs. Only concerned with high quality.
We will always miss Chuck. Thanks, John D

John, It was Peninsula Plating in Orlando. Chuck had been using them ever since he moved to FL in '04, so I used them too. We used to do road trips together to Orlando with boxes of stuff.

Rich

[John D.]

Re: Fuel Injection rebuild - parts finish and plating 1959 900R

Rich, I use Beringer Plating in Akron, Ohio. I am please with their work and have been with them for 20-25 years. Forget.

But people are always asking me about cad platers in different areas of the country. Thanks, John

[Ian G.]

Re: Fuel Injection rebuild - parts finish and plating 1959 900R

guys, can you tell me if it's necessary to get the two needles out of the choke housing prior to having the pot metal refinished? if so how do you get them out, as well as the welsh plugs that block them out? what about the lead plugs that i see on the outside?

[Don H.]

Re: Fuel Injection rebuild - parts finish and plating 1959 900R

I would definitely take them out, they must move freely. If I remember right , they come out when the welsh plug is removed. Replacement plugs are available from most re-builders. Don H.

[Ian G.]

[Don H.]

Re: Fuel Injection rebuild - parts finish and plating 1959 900R

Carefully drill into the plug & pull it out.

[Ian G.]

Re: Fuel Injection rebuild - parts finish and plating 1959 900R

That went as well as I could hope. Drilled a small hole in each welsh plug (one was thicker than the other) and pulled them with a hook. The bigger needle had just a spring, and the smaller needle had a spring and a small bearing. The springs go in small end first... I notice one spring is broken though I'll ask JohnDegregory if there are replacements... I assume the 5 lead plugs can remain, or they need to be removed as well?

I also need to remove the Axle Link from the fuel Meter bowl. Any trick there other than pulling with needle nose pliers? Someone suggested I heat the lead plug holding it in.

[Don H.]

Re: Fuel Injection rebuild - parts finish and plating 1959 900R

To remove the axle link, carefully pull the shaft it is on. There is a great reproduction axle link that is superior to the originals. Do NOT remove the "washer" (for lack of a better term) that the spill valve goes up to - copper colored in your picture. Good luck, Don H.

[Jim L.]

Re: Fuel Injection rebuild - parts finish and plating 1959 900R

I also need to remove the Axle Link from the fuel Meter bowl. Any trick there other than pulling with needle nose pliers? Someone suggested I heat the lead plug holding it in.

I've never needed to use heat to remove the axle pin. I "get the lead out", so to speak, with a small drill bit and a dental pick. After that, it's relatively easy to grab the pin with needle nose pliers and push it out.

Jim

[John D.]

Re: Fuel Injection rebuild - parts finish and plating 1959 900R

I use a small drill bit and an end mill to remove the #4 lead shot. Then I have a special pair of small pliers (hidden) that I use to grasp onto the pin on the inside. I swivel the pin back and forth. Then the pin typically come out with ease.
I forgot to mention the stubborn ones on the Fi's that sat around with good old ethanol I use Aero Kroil penetrating oil to help break the pin loose.
John D
P.S. I never use heat. Speaking of that be careful using heat anywhere on an FI unit. I may use propane but never Mapp Gas, etc.
To resolder an old spider (not '63-'65) I use a jewelers torch and propane. Flame is like a sharp pin.

[Ian G.]

Re: Fuel Injection rebuild - parts finish and plating 1959 900R

Got it out. I was afraid to drill, so I used locking needle nose pliers and got it out. I don't think the axle is original, unless GM used resin to hold it together?

What about the welsh plug in the fuel meter? is it typical to see resin holding it in?

John, is #4 lead shot used to fill the orifices on the choke as well?

[Jim L.]

Re: Fuel Injection rebuild - parts finish and plating 1959 900R

The epoxy was put there by one particular previous rebuilder. I've seen similarly "repaired" axle/links which were so stiff they would not function. Predictably, the FI units built with these stiff axle/link assemblies did not run worth crap. Of note, also, is that the counterweight is missing the balance weight added in that large hole.

Factory assemblies have crimped ends on that axle pin. Over time, these crimped ends cause the holes in the counterweights to wear larger, eventually causing the axle/link to fail.

The epoxy on the fuel meter plug is not original and, like the epoxy on the axle/link, is a poor attempt to seal the plug.

Jim

[Ian G.]

Re: Fuel Injection rebuild - parts finish and plating 1959 900R

Thanks Jim, It was non-cosmetically "rebuilt" in 2002, and I bought the car in 2007. The "rebuild" was also missing nozzle screens and orifices, and some may know orifices are irreplaceable without buying new nozzles. I have the receipt of the rebuilder if anyone is interested in whom to avoid. I can't vouch what happened to it between the time he restored it and I bought it from the seller. But the seller was not terribly honest about what I was buying either, and I am a greenhorn when it comes to cars. Just overly adventurous I guess. I don't think it was opened up between the rebuild and me disassembling it. Sigh.

Should that welsh plug be sealed at all?

I'm going to send my parts to Fred Hudson in OK, but first I need to get the temp sender switch and water nipple out of the intake and they are giving me trouble. Any ideas on getting the nipple out without ruining the intake? I asked a machinist and he wouldn't touch it.

[Jim L.]

Re: Fuel Injection rebuild - parts finish and plating 1959 900R

If the nozzles were missing the orifice discs, the engine wouldn't even run! That's amazing that someone would claim the unit to have been "rebuilt". No need to tell me who did the rebuild. I recognize the person's work.

I don't have any suggestions for removing the temp sender and heater hose nipple. Some will likely suggest heat but that makes me nervous. I've previously soaked similarly seized parts in Kroil and attempted using an impact wrench to remove them.... all to no effect. Good luck!

Jim