Radiator shroud fit problem - Body not level on the frame.

[Keith R.]

[Keith R.]

Re: Radiator shroud fit problem - Body not level on the frame.

Here's a link to more photos on Photobucket if you can put up with all the pop-up ads. http://s1076.photobucket.com/user/macraekw/library/

[Keith R.]

Re: Radiator shroud fit problem - Body not level on the frame.

No response from anyone???

I re-shimmed the five body points on the passenger side to level the body side-to-side by adding two shims to each of the outboard passenger compartment mount points and to the right rear by the trunk. While it leveled the body from side to side, it didn't have much effect at the front of the car. I'm thinking that I need to shim the radiator support to raise the front of the car. Any comments?

[Richard M.]

Re: Radiator shroud fit problem - Body not level on the frame.

Keith, I didn't see your original post. I'd have jumped in then but missed it.

Adding shims to the floor area as you already did was correct. This raises the nose above the frame a bit to help line up the shroud to the support. However, the weight of the nose still has a tendency to not show a major difference. Now that you've done that, yes.... add shims under the support to raise the nose and take the weight of the nose upward. Since your driver side shroud lined up better than passenger side, you may have to cheat it a bit by adding more shims to the body floor area on passenger side. At this stage it's trial and error so it may take extra time to get everything lined up. When you have it set, then tighten the body mount bolts and check shroud again. Sometimes it needs more shim work after tightening.

Edit... I re-read your original post and you added shims to the "outer" mounts. You may also need to shim the "inner" 2 forward floor mounts too.

As you experienced, many folks are not aware of the importance of this body shimming check on the 58 to 62 cars, especially the 58-60, as those years are more critical to line up shroud to support to radiator side frame captive nuts.

When setting the body back on the frame, the first thing I test fit is the fan shroud to check alignment to radiator support and frame horns. Then I adjust body and radiator support shims to get best alignment at the shroud to support. When this is set, the other byproduct is better bumper alignment also.

Rich

[Bob W.]

Re: Radiator shroud fit problem - Body not level on the frame.

Rich When you remove the body do you keep track of the shims as to the amount and location and use that as starting point then add or remove as needed ?


Bob

[Richard M.]

Re: Radiator shroud fit problem - Body not level on the frame.

Rich When you remove the body do you keep track of the shims as to the amount and location and use that as starting point then add or remove as needed ?


Bob

Bob, yes I keep track of shim count as a baseline but usually adjust for best door gaps etc. The factory had special fixtures for shim count but not always the best fit as we know. It gets even more critical if major bodywork was done.

Another area that gets affected is alignment of steering column to dash and cluster, but shims at the steering box to frame and at the underdash brace allow for some corrections there too. Sometimes the body needs to be shifted to one side or the other to improve alignment. I've had to do that on several occasions.

Rich

[Keith R.]

Re: Radiator shroud fit problem - Body not level on the frame.

Thanks Rich. I knew that I could count on you to provide your sage advice. Question though: In order to raise the nose, the four bolts through the fender skirts to the radiator support (two on each side) would have to remain tightened in order to raise the nose - otherwise, just the support would move, right?

[Bob W.]

Re: Radiator shroud fit problem - Body not level on the frame.

Rich Thanks for your reply. Now we have a better idea on what to do when we encounter this issue.

Thanks Bob

[Richard M.]

Re: Radiator shroud fit problem - Body not level on the frame.

Thanks Rich. I knew that I could count on you to provide your sage advice. Question though: In order to raise the nose, the four bolts through the fender skirts to the radiator support (two on each side) would have to remain tightened in order to raise the nose - otherwise, just the support would move, right?

Keith, Yes correct. The support to skirts is a solid assembly and must be tight. The 2 upper support extensions are also part of this assembly and everything must be solid before raising the support with shims at the bottom.

Just keep a close eye on the side fender wheel openings too. You don't want to put too much strain there. You may even notice that they're bellowed out a bit and raising the support may bring them in and straighter when viewing down the side of the front fenders. It may be wise to loosen the 4 forward cabin mount bolts to let them relax a bit before shimming the support too.

To raise the support you can insert a thin prybar at the support shim area and see how much movement you can get. If you hear loud creeking noises stop and investigate. Of course, bumpers must be off to do this, and steering column out or loosely mounted.

If things move again you may need to adjust door gaps again if they changed. As you know shimming one area can affect many other areas.

Rich

[Keith R.]

Re: Radiator shroud fit problem - Body not level on the frame.

Thanks. I'll give that a try tomorrow and see if that will do the trick. The fenders aren't bowed out but there was a crack at the right front wheel well arch which may have been a result of the nose riding too low for some time. Since the passenger side is lower than the driver side, I may have to fiddle with the side skirt bolt tightness to raise the right side more than the left. I made some radiator support shims out of aluminum stock that I found at Ace Hardware which happens to be the exact depth of the fiber shims used in the shim kits. Won't compress like the fiber shims will over time and I'll just paint the edges black.

[Keith R.]

Re: Radiator shroud fit problem - Body not level on the frame.

Final results were that I added about five 1/16" shims at the radiator support that I made out of aluminum stock purchased at Ace Hardware and painted black. That did the trick! The shroud bolt holes lined up; the passenger fender skirt raised up off of the frame horn and the right front bumper lined up in the center of the fake air intake as it is supposed to. The gap at the lower right front of the windshield decreased considerably as well once the windshield was tightened down.

[Richard M.]

Re: Radiator shroud fit problem - Body not level on the frame.

Final results were that I added about five 1/16" shims at the radiator support that I made out of aluminum stock purchased at Ace Hardware and painted black. That did the trick! The shroud bolt holes lined up; the passenger fender skirt raised up off of the frame horn and the right front bumper lined up in the center of the fake air intake as it is supposed to. The gap at the lower right front of the windshield decreased considerably as well once the windshield was tightened down.

Keith, Glad you got it solved.

Rich

[Patrick T.]

Re: Radiator shroud fit problem - Body not level on the frame.

Here's a link to more photos on Photobucket if you can put up with all the pop-up ads. http://s1076.photobucket.com/user/macraekw/library/

Keith, not on topic but is Photobucket up and running again or they still demanding those outrageous monthly fees to use their photo uploading?

[Jerry G.]

Re: Radiator shroud fit problem - Body not level on the frame.

Is there a written procedure for body shimming C1 body to frame.

[Richard M.]

Re: Radiator shroud fit problem - Body not level on the frame.

Is there a written procedure for body shimming C1 body to frame.

Jerry I don't know if a written document exists. What year?

Typically I take a count when I remove them and use the same number for body drop. If unknown count, I'd suggest start with 2 shims and the metal plate at all 8 center locations. When doors are on then set the rear shim count based on need to get gaps satisfactory. Adjust the shim count at cabin floor front if needed too.

The radiator support shim count can vary based on fan shroud alignment as described earlier in this thread. Keep in mind you may need to add or remove shims at the 4 front cabin floor positions if the shroud does not align to the radiator support properly. Also keep in mind there is side play in all of the frame mount holes. This can affect steering column fit to dash and or instrument cluster(58-62) and bumper fit(58-62).

Because each body and frame is different it's more of a test fit, trial and error process to get it right.

Rich