C3 Leaf Spring Surface "Texture" and Rust

[Michael C.]

I just removed and disassembled the rear leaf springs on my 69 (9 leaf) I thought I'd clean them up, paint and replace the liners. After initial clean up of the shortest leaf I was surprised to see the "texture" shown in the attached photos. Is this common, a manufacturing result or a sign of some kind of deterioration? There is some of this appearance on all leaves. Does not cover the entire leaf, but does appear on both sides.

I don't know if the (3rd) photo showing the rust pits is sufficient for you guys to offer an informed opinion, but what do you think? The pitting isn't "extensive," but seems to be limited to the three longest leaves. Discard the set or complete clean up?

If the consensus is to replace the set, any suggestions for a source? Tips on what to look for?

Thanks,
Mike

[Duke W.]

Re: C3 Leaf Spring Surface "Texture" and Rust

It's a bit tough to tell from the photos, but I would say the pits are sufficiently small and shallow that the leaves are reusable... suggest you apply a chemical rust remover like naval jelly, lightly bead blast and apply a corrosion resistant coating. The bottom side of the leaves is the most important since the bottom surface is in tension.

I think it's always best to save the OE spring unless the damage is "cratering" rather than "pitting", but it's a subjective call. Many replacements or "repros" may not meet the OE rate or result in incorrect ride height.

Let's see what others say.

Duke

[Edward J.]

Re: C3 Leaf Spring Surface "Texture" and Rust

Mike, The texture I think is normal process when making the spring, I have seen this before. Minor rust as Duke says is okay, the only time to replaced the spring is if the main leaf has major pitting, if the main leaf does break It would not be something you would want to happen.

[Don H.]

Re: C3 Leaf Spring Surface "Texture" and Rust

Duke alludes to it, but doesn't say it. That texturing is rust pitting. The spring leaves were smooth when new.
I would not hesitate to have those leaves media blasted, paint with light grey self-etching primer. install new liner set, hang it up and go.

[Patrick H.]

Re: C3 Leaf Spring Surface "Texture" and Rust

The first two photos with the gray show the texturing from manufacturing.
The third rust-colored photo shows pitting from rust.

Having said that, it appears to be in great shape, and I would likely use it again based on what I see here.

[Duke W.]

Re: C3 Leaf Spring Surface "Texture" and Rust

I agree. The top two photos appear to be just "mill scale" from the hot rolling and tempering operations. The bottom photo does show what appears to be minor pitting, but not severe enough to affect durability.

Duke

[Michael C.]

Re: C3 Leaf Spring Surface "Texture" and Rust

Thanks for the input gentlemen.

[Richard G.]

Re: C3 Leaf Spring Surface "Texture" and Rust

I didn't blast the springs but used a flapper wheel style grinding wheel to clean mine.
The grinding wheel looks like this:


This process smoothed out the spring significantly. My thought was it left less sharp areas to start a crack from and would allow the plastic liners to slide with out gouging.

Then I treated the springs with a rust converter. After the cleaning and treatment they looked like this.



After they dried I used a commercial enamel paint to paint them. The grey color matched the stuff they sell in the can.
I am confident the paint I used will outlast the cheap spray paint by 100 times.

Picture after the springs were painted.


I was happy with the results.
Rick

[Ron G.]

Re: C3 Leaf Spring Surface "Texture" and Rust

This is a subject that we have discussed many times on the discussion board. I agree with the other members in regards to the pitting of the metal is because of age and corrosion. When the rear springs were painted they were painted with a product called 200L Weld thru primer and they were dipped painted. Early C2 Corvettes were painted on the top surface only, but after several conversations with personnel that actually painted them, it was decided it was easier and more efficient just to dip the whole leaf at once as opposed to just covering one side. Several years ago I had an opportunity to buy the original paint from the original supplier, but unfortunately this product is no longer available. There are other manufactures that produce the same type of paint, but as of now that would probably be the only thing closest to the original. I have discussed this on the discussion board in detail in previous posts.

[Ed S.]

Re: C3 Leaf Spring Surface "Texture" and Rust

If you have any doubts or reservations, consider replacing the main leaf only. That is the one that usually rusts the most and, if it breaks when the car is moving you have a very serious problem. Eaton will sell you one leaf. I replace the main leaf on my '64. The physical appearance, ie. thickness, width, cut angle, hole placement is virtually perfect and identical to the original. Not cheap - about $150 including shipping but looking at it another way, it is very inexpensive insurance.

[Gary B.]

Re: C3 Leaf Spring Surface "Texture" and Rust

Ed,

Unless things have changed with regard to the Eaton main leaf since I looked into this issue, the Eaton main leaf is 0.237" thick and the original GM main leaf used from 1963-1974 was 0.214" thick. That's not a big deal, but not exactly that same either. I used an Eaton main leaf when I restored the spring on my '66, so I'm an advocate of the idea of using a new main leaf for the reason you stated.

Gary