What is the correct vacuum canister for a 300hp/327?
Correct vacuum canister on a 300/327?
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Re: Correct vacuum canister on a 300/327?
John,
Depending on your year, this may be it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1959-1963-C...4AAOSw4vJavMKK
Look elsewhere as this price is over the top.
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Re: Correct vacuum canister on a 300/327?
The original was the GM #1116201. This vacuum control was discontinued by GM in January, 1965 and replaced by GM #1116163. However, the 1116201 may have been available through Delco after it was discontinued by the GM parts system.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: Correct vacuum canister on a 300/327?
A functionally correct replacement is the 15" B22, NAPA VC1802 or equivalent in another brand. ALL are the same part made by Standard Motor Products and stamped B22 regardless of the name on the box.
Often the stamped data is not visible with the cap fully seated, but there may be some slight difference in the configuration, like the crimp.
Since the VAC is only worth 3 points - two for originality and one for condition, what was the reason for the 2-point deduction, and what is the number on the currently installed VAC.
Duke- Top
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Re: Correct vacuum canister on a 300/327?
Duke, here is a picture of what is on the car now. It looks like 236. I guess I should just leave it over 2 points.- Top
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Re: Correct vacuum canister on a 300/327?
Paragon sells a reproduction (other vendors may also) stamped 201. I have not used one so I can say if it test correct or not.Don Harris
Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)- Top
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Re: Correct vacuum canister on a 300/327?
I would be very careful of "reproductions". At least in the past some have been discovered with the "correct" stamped data, but were not even remotely close in start and stop points.
I consider the SMP manufactured VACs to be OE replacement, so in chapter judging if the book specifies the stamped data and I can see it and it's not correct, I'll take off one originality point. If I can't see the stamped data and the surface plating is near new, no deduction.
The trouble with a 236 16 is that it is way more aggressive (start @ 4", 16 @ 8") than necessary for a 300 HP engine, and in some cases may cause detonation, especially transient when the throttle is opened partially to accelerate. The 15" B22, which has nearly identical specs to the 201 15 is the least aggressive VAC that meets the Two-Inch Rule because typical idle vacuum for a 300 HP engine is 18-19" @ 500 in neutral and about 17" at the same speed in Drive with an automatic.
These replacement VACs cost about ten bucks, and if your 236 16 still meets spec and doesn't have any visible rust, it's probably worth more. It was OE on 30-30 cam engines and L-79s, but is too aggressive for the latter which typically idles at 750 @ 14-15", so the 12" B26 is a better functional fit.
Duke- Top
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Re: Correct vacuum canister on a 300/327?
Duke, how do you take a 50% deduction? If the stamped data is incorrect then it's a confiruration hit of 20%. 20% of 2 points is .4. Essentilly there is no deduction unless you start counting dots.
I'm assuming you assigned 2 points out of the 15 to the vacuum advance.
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Re: Correct vacuum canister on a 300/327?
Perhaps I was being too harsh. The VAC is only worth 3 points - 2 for originality and 1 for condition. I do make "half point" notes and take a point on the next half point observation.
In a previous discussion of this subject a few years ago someone claimed that if the VAC number didn't match, he took the full three points. You should talk to him.
Duke- Top
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Re: Correct vacuum canister on a 300/327?
You do realize 2 points, that is .04% ................... next to nothing, not even a consideration in the great over all picture of things.- Top
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