My Engine Break-In Checklist

[Mark P.]

[Richard G.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

You have a great list there.
Only possible thing I can add is to check the oil in the transmission.
I have had issues running a new engine at 2000rpm for the full 20 min.
Typically they get warm fast. So if you need to cut it a few min short it will be fine.

I noticed the plug wires on the cap have the straight boots. You will have a difficult time getting the SS ignition cover on with straight ends. Don't ask how I know. Looks like a great job. Let us know how it works out. Really exciting to have the motor running after all that work.

[Michael H.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

I would run plain water instead of the 50/50 of anti-freeze just in case you have a leak.

Mike

[Edward B.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

+1 Plain water saves a lot of work if leak(s) occur.

[Jim L.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

Despite the thoroughness of your process to set the timing in step 10, I'd suggest having an air cleaner in place when you light off the engine. Air cleaner will keep any backfire well contained.

[Duke W.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

All previous suggestions are good. I don't know anything about your oil choice. My recommendation would be 15W-40 CJ/CK-4 with a pint of GM EOS. Assuming you used a moly-rich break-in grease on the lobes and lifters, change the filter after the initial 30 minute run in, but leave the existing oil installed. Just top it off. The filter will catch most of the solids in the grease.

Assuming you're using the production equivalent valve springs you should have no problems. These engines certainly didn't get that kind of cam break-in procedure when they were new.

I hope you installed the ...962 cam four degrees advanced with an adjustable timing chain set.

You won't really know if 91 PON fuel is okay until you finish the car and put load on the engine, but it should be okay for break-in if the CR is no more than about 10.5.

Once the car is complete, run it at least 200 miles with varying load keeping revs below 4000. Then do some WOT runs to 5000 or so and check for smoke on both acceleration and trailing throttle. If not observed, the rings are probably seated and the valve guides/seals are good and you can run it to the redline.

You said L-79 but the engine is dressed as a 300 HP. The restoration looks great except for the funky blue distributor cap.

Your distributor installation is okay, except you don't have to set it at zero to install. Just set the balancer notch at 8-10 on the tab. Once it's seated connect an ohmmeter between the coil negative terminal and ground. Rotate the dist. CW as necessary to get the ohmmeter to read infinite. The rotate it CCW until the meter just hits zero, and snug the bolt. (This is static timing the engine.) If the cap window is near normal to engine c/l and the VAC is about midway between the coil bracket and manifold interference point, it should start right up and the timing will be in the ballpark, but check it and correct, if necessary, before shutting down the engine.

Duke

[Mark P.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

Thanks Everyone. I fell better about this now. Using straight water will help when I drain the temp radiator set-up. I forgot that I bought an NOS D308 cap so I just need to find it and install it. It is dressed as an L75 300 HP but has been rebuilt as an L79. The L82 cam was installed 4 degrees advance. My Comp Ratio is 10.3. Valve springs are OE equivalent.

[Patrick H.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

I agree with the water rather than 50/50.

I don't know that you have to remove the valve covers when you prime it. If you watch the oil pressure, once that goes up you're likely good. This usually does not take long, so if you run the primer even 2 minutes that is way more than you'll need.

[Mark P.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

Patrick - I was told to pull the valve covers and watch oil come from the lifters and top of the push rods. It will also help me determine TDC of #1 easier.

Since I have new gaskets that are sealed to the valve cover and not the head then this is a few minute job.

Do you think the primer will fill the oil canister if I run it for a couple minutes ? How much oil pressure should I see with a stock pump with a primer.

Thanks,

Mark

[Jim L.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

Patrick - I was told to pull the valve covers and watch oil come from the lifters and top of the push rods. It will also help me determine TDC of #1 easier.

To get oil to all the rockers, you'll need to spin the pump, rotate the engine, spin the pump, rotate the engine...... rinse and repeat.

Do you think the primer will fill the oil canister if I run it for a couple minutes ? How much oil pressure should I see with a stock pump with a primer.

Until the oil canister is full, you won't see any pressure register on the gauge. Or, said differently, when you do see pressure, you'll know the canister has oil.

Jim

[Mark P.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

Thanks Jim - I forgot about spinning the engine to 0, 90, 180 and 270 as I prime.

[Rocco S.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

When priming the oil system for the first time you should also rotate the crank by hand. Its OK to start at TDC and watch for oil at each rocker arm. But you will also have to repeat this process by rotating the crank 90 degrees, three more times, stopping at each location. This assures that each lifter is exposed to the pressurized oil port in the lifter bore. If not, there is a chance that some lifter ports will be covered by the solid part of the lifter OD and some lifters/ rocker arms will not receive oil.

[Mark L.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

Mark, some years ago Bill Sangrey authored an article in the Restorer on how to build a "start-up" box. I wonder if there are any members in your area that might have built one that you could borrow. It sure is a handy device for this sort of thing. Some chapters have these sort of tools in their inventory. I have one you could borrow but I'm on the other coast. Great looking chassis.

[Mark P.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

Hi Mark - I think this box is in the Summer 98 Restorer Volume 25, Num 1 "An Engine Test Dashboard Box". If anyone can share this article I would appreciate this. I am planning to build this box and have purchased a gauge set with mechanical oil Pressure, mechanical coolant temperature, and battery amperage and tachometer. I also have a start switch, ignition power switch, ballast resistor and throttle cable set-up from a lawn mower.

Thanks,

Mark

[Larry M.]

Re: My Engine Break-In Checklist

A simple item, but possible to overlook - make sure the transmission is in neutral.